Elsewhere around the Baha de Banderas, the bay at whose centre Puerto Vallarta sits, waterborne transport offers the only access to half a dozen more white-sand beaches, including the old hippy hang-out of Yelapa, hemmed in by tropical hills and coconut palms. Yelapa has managed to retain a rustic, laid-back feel, despite the arrival of day trippers, electricity and satellite dishes; locals still hook octopus and surgeonfish from the pier, frigate birds glide over the water and turkey vultures skulk in the trees.

Where to stay

Casa Amorita Just five rooms in the centre of town, with balconies and cool tiled floors; there's a Venetian-tile pool and a roof bar and terrace with spellbinding views of the ocean and cathedral (0052 322 222 4926; casaamorita.com; double rooms from 62).

Casa Velas The pick of the elegant new resorts along Vallarta's northern coast, with spa, golf and several pools; ultra-stylish suites blend Mexican and contemporary decor (322 226 6688; hotelcasavelas.com; from 165).

Where to eat

Joe Jack's Fish Shack Fabulous seafood: this place is best known for its fish and chips and chowders, the tastiest in town; sit at the bar downstairs, or enjoy the views from the rooftop dining area (Basilio Badillo 212; 322 222 2099; joejacks-fishshack.com).

Caf des Artistes Upmarket gourmet dining in a French-Mexican fusion style the intriguing menu features plenty of local seafood (Guadalupe Snchez 740; 322 222 3228; cafedesartistes.com).

What to do

Puerto Vallarta is very much a resort, but with mesmerising sunsets, miles of sandy beaches and a laid-back, colonial centre, it is smaller and more subdued than Acapulco or Cancun. Trips to the Marieta Islands, for the Playa del Amor, are run by Vallarta Under Sea (322 209 0025; vallartaundersea.com). Lanchas for Yelapa and other beaches around the bay leave from Boca de Tomatln, south of town.

About 940 miles to the south east, another lancha blasts out of the bay of Huatulco, heading north to Playa Cacaluta, a gorgeous stretch of sand in another protected national park. Like Playa del Amor, Cacaluta has enjoyed its moment of celebrity: it featured in the breakthrough Mexican film Y Tu Mam Tambin.

See more here:

Mexico's hidden beaches reached by boat