Off the beaten track, Caribbean-style: Here’s where to social distance in paradise – The Boston Globe

Heres where folks from Martinique and Guadeloupe go for some peace and quiet

Rebounding from the double-whammy of Tropical Storm Erika and Hurricane Maria, verdant Dominica one of the worlds blue zones (lots of centenarians) is back, with a new focus on sustainability and climate resiliency. Two-thirds of the landscape is tropical forest, laced with rivers (as featured in Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Mans Chest), waterfalls, and hiking trails. Were not saying youll live to 100 if you hike a portion of the islands 115-mile Waitukubuli National Trail, but it sure cant hurt.

Located near Guadeloupe and Martinique, Dominica is known for its low-key vibe, but some new luxury properties are springing up, including the Cabrits Resort & Spa Kempinski (www.kempinski.com). Were partial to the rustic-chic serenity of Rosalie Bay Eco-Resort (www.rosaliebaydominica.com), reopened to Zen-like exquisiteness after suffering damage from Hurricane Maria. The beaches here are nothing special, but there are lots of interesting ways to get wet: You can snorkel in champagne-like bubbles rising from geothermal vents at Champagne Reef, swim under a waterfall at Emerald Pool, and soak in the hot springs and mud baths at Wotten Waven. (How can you resist a place with a name like Wotten Waven?)

COVID-19 protocol: Dominica started welcoming travelers from the United States on Aug. 7. Visitors must submit a health questionnaire online at domcovid.19.dominica.gov.dm at least 24 hours before arrival along with negative PCR test results recorded 24 to 72 hours before arrival (for those age 5 and older). Upon arrival, all travelers will have to undergo a free rapid diagnostic test. If those results are negative, they will be allowed to check into a Safe in Nature certified property (the places we mention above are included) for a minimum of five days. Those with positive rapid tests will have a PCR test administered and will need to quarantine in a government-approved facility at their own expense until negative results come back.

How to get there: Connect through St. Maarten, Antigua, Barbados, St. Lucia, or San Juan, Puerto Rico. http://www.discoverdominica.com

All about that beach

Beach-starved souls, rejoice. The tiny twin-island nation of Antigua and Barbuda (not to be confused with Anguilla or Barbados) resumed flights from the United States in June, so theyve had plenty of time to fine-tune safety protocols. Most tourism businesses have been certified for their health practices and are open for business. But, really, Everyone is here for the beach, says CEO of the tourism authority Colin C. James. With 95 miles of coastline along the eastern Caribbean Sea, Antigua claims 365 beaches, and our beaches have always been uncrowded, James notes.

But this year, were feeling Barbuda, located 27 miles northeast of its bigger sister. Devastated by Hurricane Irma in 2017, the island continues to rebuild, but is welcoming tourists (a major part of the island economy, along with fishing and lobstering). Ringed with 17 miles of pink sand, this low-lying coral outpost (population 1,500) typically hosts more magnificent frigatebirds than tourists. (Barbudas frigatebird sanctuary counts 170 species). Most of the attractions here were created by Mother Nature, like Dark Cave, a boulder-hung passage that leads to underground pools teeming with crustacean species found no place else on earth. Indian Cave has chambers that feature Amerindian petroglyphs, while Darbys Cave has a large sinkhole. Besides cave-hopping and birdwatching, most visitors are happy to swim, snorkel, and wander the peachy-pink sands at Low Bay and Palmetto Point beaches. Tiny pink shells dot the sand from November through April.

The dining and lodging scene is homey and unpretentious: Think snack bars and small restaurants, camping, and guest houses. Among the lodgings certified by the government are Barbuda Belle (www.barbudabelle.com) and Barbuda Cottages (www.barbudacottages.com). Both are situated right on the beach because where else would you want to be?

COVID-19 protocol: Visitors age 12 and over arriving from the US must have a negative COVID-19 PCR test within seven days of arrival.

How to get there: JetBlue, American, and Delta Airlines offer connecting flights from Boston to Antigua. Barbuda is reachable via 15-minute flight or two-hour ferry ride from Antigua. http://www.visitantiguabarbuda.com

Anegada da vida, baby

What can you say about an island of 285 souls that is famous for free-flying flamingos and the best-tasting lobsters in the Caribbean? Just say, Take me there!

Among the 60-plus isles in the British Virgin Islands, Anegada is far less known than Tortola, its neighbor to the southwest. Youll need to take a ferry from Tortola to get there, but youll be glad you did, especially if you love diving or snorkeling: The only coral island in the chain, Anegada is home to Horseshoe Reef, the third-largest barrier reef in the Caribbean. The reef is a wonderland of mazes, tunnels, and drops, featuring myriad marine life. Or explore the shipwrecks of Spanish galleons, American privateers, and British galleons more than 300 in all. Sport-fishing and bone fishing are a big deal, too.

Lobster season runs from November through June, perfect for winter escapees. (Local lobster pairs especially well with a Rum Teaser or Wreck Punch, Anegadans report.) The islands beaches are gorgeous, and largely deserted. Theres also a tour we havent seen elsewhere in the Caribbean: an excursion to conch shell mounds with Kellys Land & SeaTours. Made up of thousands of conch shells discarded by generations of fisherman, these mounds are humongous the only mountainous forms on this very flat island. If you like unspoiled and unglitzy, this ones for you. A beachfront palapa seems like a perfect fit for a place like this, and theyve got them at Anegada Beach Club (www.anegadabeachclub.com). The resort sections off a part of the beach and restaurant for each quarantined group so visitors can enjoy themselves while quarantining.

COVID-19 protocols: To enter the BVI, visitors need travel insurance that covers COVID-19, and a negative PCR test taken five days prior to departure. Visitors will also be tested upon arrival. Then, visitors must quarantine at their accommodations for four days and get another test on day four; when the result comes back negative, they are free to explore on the fifth day. ($175 fee covers two tests.) For updated details, go to https://www.bvitourism.com/reopening.

How to get here: Several of the major airlines offer connecting flights to Tortola. The easiest way to get to Anegada from Tortola is by ferry from Road Town. http://www.BVItourism.com

Give me green and gorgeous

They call it the Spice Island, thanks to the nutmeg and mace that grow here. Add the bean-to-bar cocoa plantations and local specialties like oil down and black cake, and its easy to focus on Grenadas vibrant food scene. But these days, when being outdoors is the way to go, this hilly lump of gorgeousness has much to recommend it.

A trip to Grand Etang Rainforest Reserve is a must, but some new operators are offering fun activities that are perfect for social distancing, like Cayaks (www.cayaks.com), fully transparent kayaks that reveal the underwater landscape. And if you want to work off that Grenadian chocolate and black cake, join outfitter Spice Isle Exploration (www.explorespiceisle.com) to explore the coastline of Grenada (and sister islands Carriacou and Petite Martinique) by pedal boat or kayak. Annandale Waterfall is another island classic visit at night to see these spectacular waterfalls illuminated by colored spotlights. All of these have been vetted as Pure Safe Travel approved attractions during the COVID-19 pandemic.

COVID-19 protocol: Visitors must apply for a Pure Safe travel certificate prior to arrival at the airport, along with a negative PCR test result. Then, theyll transfer to secured accommodations and have the option to holiday in place at the resort for the entire stay or choose to have a second PCR test on day four. With a confirmed negative result, provided within one to two working days by the Ministry of Health, visitors may explore outside their property. Two good (approved) hotels to consider: True Blue Bay Boutique Resort (www.truebluebay.com) and SilverSands Grenada (www.silversandsgrenada.com).

How to get there: Grenada is reachable via connecting flights on JetBlue and American Airlines. http://www.puregrenada.com

Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at bairwright@gmail.com

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Off the beaten track, Caribbean-style: Here's where to social distance in paradise - The Boston Globe

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