With subsidized airfare, friendly people and the freshest fish youll ever eat, this is, as they say, Hawaii like it was 50 years ago.

RAROTONGA, Cook Islands So hows your day going? asked the post-office lady as I bought some colorful Cook Islands postage stamps.

Funny thing was, the way she asked I had a feeling that she would have lent an ear were I interested in sharing the details of my day, which by the way had gone splendidly. I was in the Cook Islands, after all.

When you ask a Cook Islander what one reaction visitors have when visiting here, they invariably answer the people are so friendly. Of course, the Cooks have the sun and sand and aqua waters youve always associated with the South Pacific, as do Tahiti and Fiji. But there are several ways the Cooks stand out from those other destinations.

First, its the cheapest to reach by air. Air New Zealand flies here every Saturday, a 9- or 10-hour nonstop flight from Los Angeles, and frequently offers airfares around $899 round-trip, or even less with their occasional $400-off coupon codes, which bring the price down to $499-$598 round-trip (the country subsidizes the flights; airfare to other South Pacific hot spots are usually $1,200 round-trip or more).

Second, the main island, Rarotonga, with its large lagoon, is a continuous land mass. Whereas your resort on Fiji or Tahiti might be isolated on its own island, the ones here are all on the same island so you can easily explore different resorts, restaurants and attractions. The small airport is just a few minutes from most resorts.

There are no high-rises, no chain stores, no McDonalds, not even a stop light. This is, as they say, Hawaii like it was 50 years ago.

When to visit: November to April is rainy season, so resort prices are lower, and November to March is cyclone season, although the country hasnt had a serious storm in several years. July to October is whale season during which cavorting whales and their offspring are visible from the shore.

Things to do:

Take a sunset cocktail cruise on the lagoon. Several resorts offer these.

Visit the Whale and Wildlife Centre and Cafe.

Take a Tik-E electric tuk-tuk tour with Karl Jackson, a New Zealander expat. Anything you ever wanted to know about the Cooks will be revealed.

Attend a Sunday church service, where women sport elaborate Polynesian head dresses and the choirs are uplifting.

Cuisine: There are more than 50 cafes and restaurants on Rarotonga, operated both by the native-born and New Zealand expats. Fish and other seafood are the thing to have here. You eat what was caught that day.

Reserve dinner at Tupunas Restaurant for fresh coconut crab.

Getting around: Many resorts offer shuttle service, and you can rent cars and mopeds (drive on the left). A public bus circles Rarotonga every 30 minutes and costs NZD $5 per ride, or $16 for an all-day pass.

Shopping: Stores close around 4 p.m. Monday to Friday and noon on Saturday. Everything is closed on Sunday. Jewelry designed from highly polished shells, carved by local artisans, make a beautiful gift.

Excursions: A 50-minute flight to Aitutaki, the other major island in the Cooks, is a popular option, where all resorts are beachfront.

Etiquette: Dont be surprised if youre greeted with a kiss on the cheek instead of a handshake. These people really are friendly!

Interesting fact: The country will likely be the first to run on 100 percent renewable energy. The plan is that it will happen by 2020, although the prime minister assured me it will be sooner.

More information:cookislands.travel

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Why the Cook Islands are the best South Pacific bargain - The Seattle Times