Mar 15 2014 at 4:00 AM

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Tranquility now reigns on islands that were once hell on earth for thousands of prisoners, writes Iain Stewart.

With most of its 90 million people living along a narrow coastal strip, it is all too easy to experience a densely populated country such as Vietnam through a blur of exhaust fumes, struggling along Highway 1 and stopping at the most popular towns and cities along the way.

There is a lot to take in, so you would do well to spend time away from the mainland, on one of the country's beautiful islands that are fast attracting visitors.

Off the central coast, the Cham Islands are a great day trip from historic Hoi An, while in the deep south, Phu Quoc is developing, but has a lush interior and unspoilt beaches. For the ultimate escape, however, my pick would be remote Con Dao, with a fascinating history and empty beaches.

CON DAO

The Con Dao Islands have an utterly unhurried ambience.

"There are two traffic lights, but no work," the bike rental guy said apologetically as he gave me the island rundown. "One gas station, but closed for lunch. Only one road, so you no get lost. Right to airport or left to prisons and port."

Moped key in hand, I was relishing the chance to get out and explore some empty roads in search of a perfect beach for the day. I had spent the previous week embracing Vietnamese city culture and its furious energy and commerce, but was now in need of some serious hammock time.

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The coast is clear