The inn offers other nice touches, too: a bar area where guests can help themselves to complimentary drinks and snacks, bicycles to use to explore the island (bike trails are nearby), yoga on the lawn on Saturday mornings, and breakfast, prepared by Annabelle, and worthy of mention. All in all, it has a very upscale, unfussy, intimate vibe, the perfect balance between luxury resort and seaside inn.
After checking in on the first day, we explored the town, had dinner at Garde East overlooking the harbor, and slept like babies in our spacious rooms, under crisp Frette linens.
It might be a little sporty out there, Captain Eamonn Solway said the following morning as we boarded his 26-foot, six-passenger charter boat. But this is one of my favorite trips. I never get tired of it.
The trip is a long one, covering 50 miles around the Elizabeth Islands, a chain of 13 islands off the Cape Cod coastline, just north of Marthas Vineyard. All but two of the islands are owned by the Forbes family, a wealthy Boston-based enclave, who made their money trading opium and tea in the 19th century. We motored around the West Chop Lighthouse, and into the choppy waters of Vineyard Sound. It was a gorgeous day, bright and sunny, with great visibility. We passed Nonamesset Island, circled around a couple of striper fishermen, and motored along the shoreline of Naushon Island, the largest privately owned island in the Northeast. Solway stopped the boat in pretty Tarpaulin Cove overlooking the Tarpaulin Cove Lighthouse and a historic Colonial home nestled on the sandy shoreline.
During the 18th century, the cove would have been filled with merchant ships with their tall masts and billowing sails. There might have been 50 or more ships in the cove at one time, Solway said. It must have been quite a sight. The cove is one of the few deep-water shelters in Vineyard Sound, once the second busiest shipping passage in the world, and one of the most dangerous. Boats would shelter in the cove, pick up supplies and mail at the shoreline home, and most likely tip a few pints. Today its a popular spot for pleasure boats, and the beach, which is open to the public (thank you Forbes family), is well-liked by people and cows.
Sometimes the cows take the trail up to the lighthouse, hang out for a while near the boulders, and then head down to the beach for a dip, Solway said. Ive taken a lot of cow pictures here.
The cows were nowhere in sight until we left the cove and turned the corner, and there they were. What a nice private island life they had, one-percenter cows! The water was 61 degrees; obviously warm enough for bovines but not for us. We snapped photos of the black and white, Oreo cows as they grazed in the grass, laid in the sunshine and cooled in the water. It was a scene that was more verdant Scottish Highlands than New England coastline. Later, we spotted a large herd of Scottish Highland cows, big, hardy animals with horns, grazing and swimming in the water.
The outermost island in the Elizabeth Island chain is Cuttyhunk, a pretty slice of land with a small community. It is exactly what we want a New England island to be: well-maintained cottages and homes hugging the shoreline and rambling up hills, blooming flower boxes, gravel backroads, a community message board, a tiny K-12 schoolhouse, and views galore. A small market and a couple of take-out shacks line Fish Dock where we landed, including the Harbor Raw Bar, serving Cuttyhunk Island oysters. During the summer, they motor around the harbor offering fresh oysters on the half shell to boaters and visitors, Solway said. We were disappointed the Raw Bar was closed on our visit; instead of slurping, we walked the main street up the hill to Naval Lookout Point, an old battery station, with spectacular views.
Back on the boat, we still had miles to go, but the waters had calmed, the sun was still shining. Solway pointed out Penikese Island, with its own unique back story. It was once home to a teenage boys reform school, a former leprosy hospital, and the Anderson School of Natural History. Today, its a state-owned wildlife refuge.
Nearby, were hundreds of seals basking on a tiny island outcropping. This is a small colony, Solway says. The whole ecology out here has changed because of the overpopulation of gray seals. And theyre drawing in the sharks.
We left the cute, controversial seals in our wake and headed for the dramatic Gay Head Cliffs and the Gay Head Lighthouse, on the western end of Marthas Vineyard, before putt-putting slowly into Menemsha Pond, looping around the harbor. The small harbor and docks were filled with working fishing boats, including the Tomahawk. That boat is owned by Buddy Vanderhoop, a well-known charter fisherman on the island, Solway said. His great uncle was a Wampanoag who once harpooned Moby Dick, the only white sperm whale ever taken.
Menemsha Village is also known as a filming site for the movie Jaws; the remains of the Orca II, the boat that was sunk at the end of the film, sits abandoned on a beach across the village docks.
We listened to the cackling of sea birds and the shrill calls of oystercatchers as we made our way back to the Vineyard Haven town dock, before returning to the quiet, plush sanctuary of Nobnocket, windswept and sun-drenched, and happy (with photos of wading cows). Nobnocket Boutique Inn, 60 Mt. Aldworth Road, Vineyard Haven, 508-696-0859, http://www.nobnocket.com; off-season rates $195-$280, in-season $375-$499. Island Girl Excursions, 508-364-1936, http://www.islandgirlexcursions.com; Vineyard Sound & Cuttyhunk Loop, up to six passengers $950.
Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at firstname.lastname@example.org
View original post here:
- From private islands to fancy cars, here are the things Jay-Z has gifted Beyonc - MSN UK - September 5th, 2021
- An incredible private island for sale in the Summer Isles at the price of a central London parking space - Country Life - September 5th, 2021
- Putin Says Private Businesses, Japanese Firms On Disputed Kurile Islands To Receive Tax Breaks - Radio Free Europe / Radio Liberty - September 5th, 2021
- Optimistic Researchers Say There Still Time To Head Off Climate Change Before It Starts Killing Rich People - The Onion - September 5th, 2021
- Hilton to Debut in Spectacular Santorini with Stunning Beachfront Property - Hospitality Net - September 5th, 2021
- The Return of the Dream Honeymoon - The New York Times - September 5th, 2021
- Punta Mita, Mexico, Is Having Its Day in the Sun - Mansion Global - September 5th, 2021
- Saint Lucia Island Innovation Ambassador to Participate at Virtual Island Summit 2021 - St. Lucia News From The Voice - The Voice St. Lucia - September 5th, 2021
- Holiday on Welsh private island goes viral on TikTok and stuns people around the world - Wales Online - July 12th, 2021
- Dusit International subsidiary Elite Havens recognised for offering one of 'The World's Most Amazing Vacation Rentals' in new Netflix series -... - July 12th, 2021
- Attempt to Spend Elon Musk's $160 Billion Wealth With This Online Simulator - Newsweek - July 12th, 2021
- How Neighbor Islands Are Working To Address Overtourism In Hawaii - Honolulu Civil Beat - July 12th, 2021
- Beautiful Scottish island goes on sale for the same price as Edinburgh city centre flat - Edinburgh Live - July 12th, 2021
- Islands receive more than $2 million in recreation... - Journal of the San Juan Islands - July 12th, 2021
- Secluded Camp with 4000 ft of Lake Frontage in NY's Adirondacks Scheduled for Luxury Auction July 16th - Markets Insider - July 12th, 2021
- Revisiting 'The Island of Dr. Moreau': Marlon Brando's fever dream - Far Out Magazine - July 12th, 2021
- Carnivals First Cruise Live Blog: Day 7, Heading Home (and a COVID Test) - Cruzely.com - July 12th, 2021
- Where Sun, Sand and Splendor Are Still to Be Discovered - The New York Times - June 10th, 2021
- The Best Smaller Islands to Visit in the BVIs - AFAR Media - June 10th, 2021
- Norwegian Donates $25000 to the Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation - Cruise Industry News - June 10th, 2021
- The 15 most beautiful Scottish islands to visit - goodhousekeeping.com - June 10th, 2021
- This Entire B.C. Island Could Be Yours For Less Than $640000 - 604 Now - June 10th, 2021
- St Barts to re-open its borders to vacationers on June 9 - GlobeNewswire - June 10th, 2021
- Celebrate World Oceans Day 2021 All Year Round At These Sustainable Luxury Resorts - Forbes - June 10th, 2021
- Why agents need to have villas and private homes in their sights - TTG - June 10th, 2021
- Privacy Is the New Luxury: 5 Caribbean Destinations Offering Ultra-Luxe Experiences - Yahoo Finance - June 10th, 2021
- Be the ruler of your own island on BC's Sunshine Coast for just over $1 million - BC News - Castanet.net - June 10th, 2021
- This Riviera-inspired island resort will be the ultimate party hotspot - What's On - June 10th, 2021
- Escape the island with a staycation on a smaller one - BreakingNews.ie - April 5th, 2021
- The private islands you can rent in France, Spain and Greece from just 12pp a night... - The Sun - April 5th, 2021
- A New Private-Island Resort in the US Virgin Islands - Caribbean Journal - April 5th, 2021
- Immunity pods of family and friends start to venture out on private vaxications - The Boston Globe - April 5th, 2021
- Royal Caribbean Thanks Emergency Services, NHS And Armed Forces With UK Homecoming, Set For This Summer - KPVI News 6 - April 5th, 2021
- Camping Returns To Apostle Islands National Lakeshore - National Parks Traveler - April 5th, 2021
- Ghislaine Maxwell Faces Two New Trafficking Charges, Raising Pressure On Prince Andrew And Others Listed In Jeffrey Epsteins Little Black Book -... - April 5th, 2021
- Staycation in Scotland: 6 remote and beautiful Scottish Island escapes - HeraldScotland - April 5th, 2021
- Private Plane Vacation Packages Are the Big New Thing in Resort Travel - InsideHook - April 5th, 2021
- Valentine's Special: 16 Spectacular Heart-Shaped Islands and Lakes on Earth (PHOTOS) | The Weather Channel - Articles from The Weather Channel |... - February 15th, 2021
- Skulls, Private Islands, And Wu-Tang: Fun Things Jeff Bezos Could... - 2oceansvibe News - February 15th, 2021
- Dream Honeymoons: A Stopover in Dubai Makes this Maldives Adventure Doubly Sweet - My New Orleans - February 15th, 2021
- Can You Afford to Live on a Cruise Ship With Social Security Alone? - Cruzely.com - February 15th, 2021
- Privacy is the New Luxury: The World's Most Exclusive Villa Holidays to Book For 2021 - Luxury Travel Magazine - February 15th, 2021
- 19 things to know before your first trip to the Maldives - Cond Nast Traveller India - February 15th, 2021
- Luxury, waterfront home on Venice Island listed at $3.5M - Sarasota Herald-Tribune - February 15th, 2021
- Things to do in Maldives, where the world seems headed this year-end - Moneycontrol.com - December 5th, 2020
- Is Princess Plus Worth It? Program Details and What to Know - Cruzely.com - December 5th, 2020
- Conspiracy theories are a threat to democracy - Canton Repository - December 5th, 2020
- Juliet Twena: The 'must see' sights on my bucket list - part one - Jersey Evening Post - December 5th, 2020
- 15 Biggest Islands on Earth - Yahoo Finance - October 19th, 2020
- How to Plan the Ultimate Caribbean Luxury Vacation - Caribbean Journal - October 19th, 2020
- Escape To The Secret Sophistication of The Florida Keys - Ocean Drive Magazine - October 19th, 2020
- Disney Cruise Line has 2022 itineraries and an update on Disney Wish - Travelweek - October 19th, 2020
- D'Aguilar: Be patient on tourism restart - EyeWitness News - October 19th, 2020
- Ngpuhi protesters prepared to stand in front of bulldozers to stop development on whi tapu land - RNZ - October 19th, 2020
- Miss 'overseas' holidays? Head to the Hauraki Gulf - New Zealand Herald - October 19th, 2020
- Beaver Island Retreat, In Up-North Michigan Indianapolis Monthly - Indianapolis Monthly - October 19th, 2020
- Airlines really want you to fly this winter, and these Caribbean islands are ready for tourists - The Dallas Morning News - October 10th, 2020
- BVI Tourist Board Meets With Major Tourism Industry Partners - The St. Kitts-Nevis Observer - October 10th, 2020
- 'We lost ourselves': Future Islands, the synthpop band who nearly blew it - The Guardian - October 10th, 2020
- French bank BNP is asked for information on Jeffrey Epstein's wealth - Independent.ie - October 10th, 2020
- BVI Businesses Are Soon Going To Be Lovin' It. - The St. Kitts-Nevis Observer - October 10th, 2020
- BVI Tourist Board Meets With Major Tourism Industry Partners - Government of the Virgin Islands - October 8th, 2020
- Belize Reopens: Heres The Ultimate Secluded Getaway - Forbes - October 8th, 2020
- Privately funded search team claims to have found possible signs of life on islands near where Gulf Livestock 1 sank - 9News - October 8th, 2020
- Government To Discuss Reopening Protocols With Service Industry - Government of the Virgin Islands - October 8th, 2020
- The perfect fix for your travel itch comes in the form of private jets - Lifestyle Asia - October 8th, 2020
- Cayman Islands Removed from the EU Blacklist | Weil, Gotshal & Manges LLP - JD Supra - October 8th, 2020
- These New Luxury Blimps Hope to Become the Superyachts of the Skies - Robb Report - August 20th, 2020
- Hot Property: Eagle Island - Cowboys and Indians - August 20th, 2020
- Turks and Caicos is open, but some resorts are closed - Travel Weekly - August 20th, 2020
- The rise of the 'jetcation': How hotels are using private jets to entice customers - Telegraph.co.uk - August 20th, 2020
- 13 Underrated Places That Americans Are Allowed to Visit Now - Best Life - August 20th, 2020
- The Bitcoiners Who Live Permanently Not There - Yahoo Finance - August 20th, 2020
- Seabourn works to grow events business in wake of Covid-19 suspension - Breaking Travel News - August 20th, 2020
- South Korea's Jeju Island Selects ICONLOOP Blockchain Technology for Private, Secure COVID-19 Contact Tracing A new blockchain-based mobile app... - August 20th, 2020
- Vakkaru Maldives' Unmatched New Hospitality Concept Will Take the Utmost Care of You - Hospitality Net - August 10th, 2020
- Bridesmaid for Princess Diana was guest on Jeffrey Epstein's island and flew in his jets - Mirror.co.uk - August 10th, 2020
- How to Visit Someones Island in Dreams in Animal Crossing: New Horizons - How-To Geek - August 10th, 2020
- Resorts reopen in Maldives as travel restrictions lift - Breaking Travel News - August 10th, 2020
- Paradise beaches, cocktails and hiking trails in Mauritius and you can stay at 6k-a-night hotel for 1,250 - The Irish Sun - August 10th, 2020