Being labelled a tramp is not something the average person would be overly thrilled about. Unless, that is, they happened to be Czech. In the beer-drenched hub of central Europe, the word equates neither to homelessness nor harlotry, but to a nature-loving soul who tramps jovially through the countryside with his mates. I know this because I recently became one. I am now officially a tramp.
The notion of tramping or wandering as some prefer to call it may just sound like a regular hiking or camping trip. But I can assure you, its not. A romanticised hybrid of both pursuits, it is a far quirkier beast, with folk singing, and a generous helping of rum thrown in. The tradition dates back to the early 20th century, and is influenced by the Scout movement and the free-roaming cowboy novels of Bret Harte and Jack London. Stifled by the pomposity of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, many young Czechs idolised liberal America and saw the wild west as its free-range embodiment. As such, working-class youths keen to slip away from their conventional parents would head into the wild to explore, sing songs, then collapse wearily under the stars. More than a century later, the tradition lives on, and not just amongst men, but with women and kids too.
I have my induction to tramping in the highland forests of Brdy, a glorious tramp-filled haven, 60km south-west of Prague. I have been roped in by my mate Ondej, and when I meet him and his entourage brother Milan and two friends, Jii and Honza at Pragues main station, they form a khaki cloud of beards and backpacks with an old guitar dangling on a piece of string. Almost instantly, I get what being a tramp is about.
We take a train to the village of Zadn Teba, then change to a local one to get to our starting point in smaller Nesvaily. Now that the requirement to wear masks on all public transport has been dropped, travel within the Czech Republic is without restrictions. No sooner have we stepped off it, than the group are careering towards the forest, giddily chorusing their way through a repertoire of tramp folk. It is a somewhat surreal way of walking, but I find it impossible not to be swept up in the fun. We have a map but no fixed route, hoping to stumble upon a number of hard-to-find tramp dens dotted in the thickets.
After an hour of roaming south, we find the first. Called White River many of the dens have English names its a wooden hut-and-bench construction stocked with ketchup and a copy of western bestseller Belindas Ranch. Sitting down to swig from a communal bottle of Tuzemk, Czech rum, Jii tells me about the magic of tramping. When I was 10, my older friends would go into the forest and sleep under the stars. For me, it represented friendship, freedom and fun all in one.
Its a sentiment shared by the whole group, and certainly evident at our next tramp post, Golden Bottom (Zlat dno), a few hundred metres away. The legendary 1929-built camp, decorated with totem poles, was actually bulldozed a few years back but the outraged tramp community defiantly rebuilt it within a month. Its home to the symbolic grave of camp founder General Jerry Packard (Jaroslav Krsek), who died of hypothermia in Auschwitz after the Nazis doused him with cold water. It is a moving memorial and fittingly encapsulates the tramp spirit.
At 6pm, we set up camp in a cosy spot called Samot (Solitaire), and after grilling some delicious pekky (fat sausages cross-sliced at both ends), the night is given away to beer-drinking and the singing of raucous tramping songs. Most, I note, are harmless ditties about rivers or pretty girls with freckles, but some, by the likes of dissident Karel Kryl, have a distinctly subversive feel this was a key factor of trampings popularity during the communist era.
Tramps often disliked the regime and were harassed by the police and state security, Jan Pohunek, co-editor of Czech tramping magazine, Puchej, tells me later. Although the movement itself was not forbidden, tramps were often beaten, their equipment confiscated. Then, after the Prague Spring of 1968, tramp magazines were made illegal.
We go to sleep around midnight, three of us under a shelter, the other two lying more whimsically on just a camping mat under the trees. Its a brisk night for sure, but in the morning we are warmed by the campfire and a bowl of delicious homemade cabbage and potato soup.
On the last few kilometres of our ramble, the guitar comes out again and when we finally get to the Stbrn Lhota bus stop to head back to Prague, we find we have half an hour to spare. Luckily, theres a pub, Brdsk Kozlovna, right there, so we pop in for a pint. In the humble living room of the owners house is an unexpected tramp wonderland. The walls are cluttered with wild-west memorabilia rifles, Stetson hats, rodeo pictures and in the middle is a large table of cheerful old folks in tramping gear.
Taking some photos, I explain to them that this is my first tramping trip. Their faces ripple with enthusiasm and one of them reaches into his pocket to hand me a tiny pin-badge as a gift, explaining that its the emblem of their tramp platoon. On it are the words Brdy Liberation Army.
As we sup up before catching the bus, I try to find out what that means. Liberation from what? Communists? Or maybe capitalism?
No, chuckles the tramp with a big grin. It just means liberation from work. We are now all pensioners!
See the article here:
The joys of Czech tramping: Hiking with friendship, freedom and fun - The Guardian
- if democracy and freedom got in the way of making money in the USA would they be eradicated? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 1984 by George Orwell? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Propaganda in 1984 by George Orwell? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- If America supports freedom and democracy, why have we done the following? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Another fine example of Bush supporting freedom and democracy? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Do you think that people have the right to the freedom of thought without influence anymore? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Forrest Gump - Need a thesis relating to freedom and democracy? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 1984 by George Orwell’s statement? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- How do you spread freedom and democracy without being in contradiction with the terms? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- What’s the difference between democracy and freedom? - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 3. The American Solution - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 4. Relating to Images - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 5. Representing Images - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 6. Exploring Images - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 7. Understanding Images - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 8. Acting Upon Images - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 9. The Paradigm Shift to Generativity - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 1. Totalitarianism and Variability - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 2. Freedom and Changeability - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- 3. The Freedom Culture - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- New Web Special: China and 60 Years of Communist Party Rule - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Cuban Regime Intensifies Opposition Crackdown with Sham Trial - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Postponing Dalai Lama Meeting Sends Wrong Message - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Freedom House Sends High-Level Delegation to Egypt - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Detained Syrian Opposition Figure Must Be Immediately Released - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Activist's Upheld Conviction a Troubling Sign for Justice in Kazakhstan - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Tunisia's Electoral Process Severely Damaged by Pre-Election Rights Violations - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Lifting of EU Arms Embargo on Uzbekistan Sends Wrong Message on Human Rights - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Pakistan Assembly Urged to Reject Restrictive Amendments to Press Law - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Freedom House Launches Web Feature on Fall of Berlin Wall - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Resolutions on Defamation of Religions Do Not Belong at United Nations, Organizations Say - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Bloggers' Jailing Threatens New Media's Emergence in Azerbaijan - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Support Chinese Human Rights Activists, Freedom House Tells Obama on Eve of Visit - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- UN Should Pass Resolution Condemning Iran Human Rights Abuses - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Congress Urged to Lift Ban on U.S. Travel to Cuba - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Filipino Massacre Reflects Climate of Impunity - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Switzerland Vote Disappointing Blow to Religious Freedom - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Freedom House Launches Campaign to Defend Freedom of Expression - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Poll Shows Zimbabweans Want Elections and Democratic Constitution - December 13th, 2009 [December 13th, 2009]
- Clinton Speech Signals Greater Emphasis on Human Rights in U.S. Policy - December 16th, 2009 [December 16th, 2009]
- The Prosperity Problem - January 5th, 2010 [January 5th, 2010]
- Freedom in the World 2010: Global Erosion of Freedom - January 12th, 2010 [January 12th, 2010]
- Freedom House Congratulates Memorial on Human Rights Award - January 13th, 2010 [January 13th, 2010]
- Recent Blogger Arrests a Troubling Trend in the Middle East/North Africa Region - January 13th, 2010 [January 13th, 2010]
- Freedom House Calls Upon the Government of Uzbekistan to Release its Jailed Activists - January 13th, 2010 [January 13th, 2010]
- Citing Iran Crackdown, Freedom House Launches Net Freedom Initiative - January 13th, 2010 [January 13th, 2010]
- Google Response to Chinese Cyber-Attacks Appropriate - January 14th, 2010 [January 14th, 2010]
- Ombudsman Statements Reflect Culture of Intimidation in Chechnya - January 15th, 2010 [January 15th, 2010]
- Bloggers Stifled Again in Egypt - January 15th, 2010 [January 15th, 2010]
- Google Applauded for Stance on China Internet Censorship - January 16th, 2010 [January 16th, 2010]
- Latest Convictions Reflect Crackdown on Freedom of Expression and Association in Vietnam - January 21st, 2010 [January 21st, 2010]
- Integrity of Elections in Sri Lanka Endangered, Says Freedom House - January 22nd, 2010 [January 22nd, 2010]
- Freedom House Welcomes Clinton Speech on Internet Freedom - January 23rd, 2010 [January 23rd, 2010]
- Group wants same military benefits for gay spouses - Washington Times - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Va. health bill could foil Obama proposal - Boston Globe - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- THE VA FIRST INTERNAL EVIDENCE OF CHANGE FOR GULF WAR VETERANS OF 1990-91 DOES ... - Veterans Today Network - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Freedom Driver System Receives Medical Device CE Mark - Today's Medical Developments - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- NxStage Announces New FREEDOM Data Showing the Positive Impact of its Daily ... - CNNMoney.com (press release) - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Phil Lewis: Coach fumbles lesson on freedom of the press - Naples Daily News - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Report: Prescription drug prices vary drastically in NY - Poughkeepsie Journal - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Bill Bell: Surgeon models success on international scale - Whittier Daily News - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Justin Trottier: Time to call time on homeopathy - National Post (blog) - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Voice of the Day Initiative would aid rights of patients - News-Leader.com - March 8th, 2010 [March 8th, 2010]
- Free Speech under Attack in Morocco - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Freedom House, Russian Rights Groups Announce New Partnership - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Egyptian Government Must Live Up To Its Human Rights Commitments in Geneva - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Global Human Rights Advocates Meet With President Obama on U.S. Human Rights Agenda - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Death of Political Prisoner in Cuba Exposes Systemic Prison Maltreatment and Torture - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- New Study Finds Gains for Women's Rights in the Middle East - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Egyptian Government Continues to Use Emergency Law to Crack Down on Freedom of Speech - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Human Rights Advocates Issue Plan of Action as Human Rights Council Meets in Geneva - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Sri Lankan Government Heightens Intimidation Campaign Against Voices of Dissent - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Nigerian and Indonesian Activists Challenge Repressive Measures in "Defamation of Religions" Debate - March 11th, 2010 [March 11th, 2010]
- Healing Healthcare: Restore Medical Freedom - Gather.com - March 15th, 2010 [March 15th, 2010]
- Putting the "I" back in medicine - McGill Daily - March 15th, 2010 [March 15th, 2010]
- Freedom House Calls on Kyrgyz Government to Loosen Controls on Media - March 16th, 2010 [March 16th, 2010]
- Talking Points - FOXNews - March 17th, 2010 [March 17th, 2010]
- The Battle Over Health Care At America's Medical Schools - FOXNews - March 17th, 2010 [March 17th, 2010]
- News Article Ceremony Honors Fallen Medical Servicemembers - Department of Defense - March 17th, 2010 [March 17th, 2010]
- Vietnam Temporarily Frees Prominent Catholic Priest - Christian Post - March 17th, 2010 [March 17th, 2010]