London Throws Together a Brazen, Exuberant Fashion Week

Leave it toLondon to lovingly exploit an aesthetic.

The quirkiest fashion capital knows how to push atrendas far as possiblethis is why we have the Britsto thank for the birth of the mini-skirt.

This London Fashion Week wasno different.The current 70s craze came through loud and clear, withpunched-up prints, bright florals and a sense of humornot seen in the comparably toned-downNYC collections. Brits also remixed and remastered the50s and 60s with zeal, and even Gareth Pughs menacing all-black collectionhad New Yorks goth obsession almost beat.

As always, London provided a welcomedose ofjoie de vivre,with none of the apologetic restraint so often seen in the department-store-ready New York collections.

On Saturday morning, Emilia Wickstead showed classic 1950s silhouettes, perfect for a woman who is totally modern but still loves a good Hitchcock reference.There were alsoclean pantsuits and red-carpet-ready ball gowns of which Tippi Hedren would approve.

Simone Rocha jolted crowds to attention on Saturday with blown-up rose prints, carpet-like cloaks and even dresses with fur panels down the middle. The eccentric collectionwas united in its exuberant excess.

Providing a quick break from color, Gareth Pugh threwaveritablegoth jamboree (if goths have jamborees) on Saturday night. Known as New Yorkers are for their love of all things black, Mr. Pugh outdid us. There were black feathers, black cloaks, armor-like black chestplates. One model wore a black ballgown and fur hat, perfect for theSuper Sweet Sixteen of a Visigoth warlords daughter. One model was bare-chested, wearing a billowing black skirt and waving a giant red flag like a victorious bride of Dracula.

On Sunday, Preen played with such British classics as cable knits, tartan and lace-up boots, givingthe effect of a technicolor punk-rock garden party. Models sported middle-parted, fluffycurls, like a bad 70s school portrait made chic. The plaids were perfect for your neighborhood Helena Bonham Carter wannabe.

Punk rocks dowager queen, Vivienne Westwood, incorporated every color of her muted ruffians rainbow for her autumn and winter collection. Matchy stripes and plaids, sculptural cloaks and oversize jackets were on offer.

Next, Mary Katrantzou showed a collection that was more 60s than 70sand thank goodness, because not everyone looks model-esque in thelatter decades long, lean lines.Patterns and textures duked it out on shift dresses, collars were pumped up with fur or hardware, and models wore velvet Mary Janes perfect for chasing down cute boys in bands.