Hidden on the coast of northwest Japan is a pocket of tradition, Narnia-esque mountain-scapes and gastronomic delights.
Tsuruoka, Yamagata Prefecture, is a castle town turned UNESCO City of Creativity, enveloped in spirituality and relatively untouched by tourists. A coastal city, it looks out onto the Sea of Japan and is backed by Dewa Sanzan, (the Three Mountains of Dewa): Mounts Haguro, Gassan and Yudono, said to respectively represent birth, death and rebirth.
These mountains have been a center for Shugendo (a mountain-centric religion combining aspects of esoteric Buddhism, Taoism and Shinto) for over 1,400 years and today remain a site for yearly week-long retreats called akinomineiri (literally, entering the autumn peaks). Usually attended by the ascetic Shugendo yamabushi (mountain priests), any dedicated individual can attend one of these retreats in late August. Be prepared for physical challenges such as cleansing oneself in the torrent of a waterfall, or nanban ibushi (sitting in a room with braziers of burning chili peppers).
Cant see the pagoda for the trees: En route to the peak of Mount Haguro, the unpainted facade of the Gojunoto (Five Story Pagoda) blends seamlessly into the surrounding woods. | JESSE CHASE-LUBITZ
For those planning a shorter and less physically demanding visit, Mount Haguro (414 meters) is the most accessible of the three mountains and can be climbed year-round. With its 2,446 stone steps winding through centuries-old cedar trees, the scenic path to the summit passes relics such as the Gojunoto (Five Story Pagoda), a 600-year-old National Treasure made entirely of wood that, unpainted, blends seamlessly with its surroundings. Nearby, the Jijisugi (Grandpa Cedar) keeps watch and has done, apparently, for over a millennium.
Summiting Haguro, hikers will be happy to note that Tsuruokas mountain culture extends to its food. At Saikan, the temple complex atop the mountain, hungry hikers can eat shjin ryri, a style of Buddhist vegetarian cuisine that has been passed down through the ages. One of the most famous dishes is gomadfu: soft squares of tofu made of sesame instead of soy, covered in gelatinous sesame sauce. Aside from being tasty, this style of cooking is supposed to have health benefits as well.
We tend to go to the hospital when something is wrong, but mountain people cannot do that, says Shinkichi Ito, the master chef at Saikan. They must cure themselves with their own means. They must connect with the mountain. A shjin ryri meal at Dewa Sanzan costs about 3,300 per person and requires a reservation.
When in Tsuruoka proper, head to Zenpoji, a Zen Buddhist temple complex on the edge of the city that also honors the god of the sea due to Tsuruokas coastal credentials. The temple houses a dozen or so monks in training and holds regular services, during which monks sit in front of individual sets of books and shuffle through the pages, while two others keep the tempo of the service with skillful drumming and chanting.
Good karma: A monk shows off sutras at Zenpoji temple, in the city of Tsuruoka. | JESSE CHASE-LUBITZ
It is meant to send wind and knowledge to people, says Ueno Ryuko, one of the monks currently in training. This religious spectacle is a well-rehearsed spiritual performance, and can be experienced bi-hourly from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. It costs 500 to enter and doubling up on socks is recommended in colder months (a visit involves removing shoes regularly and walking around unheated buildings).
Lunch can be found further inland at Naa, a family-owned restaurant with tatami floors and farm-to-table fare. Opened 17 years ago, Naa serves up organic food that bolsters Tsuruokas accolade of being labeled Japans first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in 2014. The restaurant mirrors the citys commitment to preserving the legacy of traditional foods and crops, one of which is dadacha-mame, a type of green soybean that the Onodera family has been planting for decades.
Growing (dadacha-mame) is important, says Norimasa Onodera, 38, owner of the restaurant since his mother passed it down to him eight years ago. But people need to eat them or they will disappear.
The restaurants dishes are affordable, ranging between 900 and 1,200, and delicious; the brown rice paired with the fresh ingredients at Naa gives a satisfying chew and nutty aftertaste. If you have room at the end, try the chiffon rice flour cake with sesame.
Farm-to-table fare at Naa, a family-owned restaurant in Tsuruoka. | JESSE CHASE-LUBITZ
For an immersive cultural experience, head to the neighboring city of Sakata. Set in a 200-year-old tea house, Somaro has daily performances by maiko (geisha in training) laced with a direct influence from their Kyoto counterparts. Admission is 1,000 for adults; to see the maiko dance, which happens daily at 2 p.m., it is an additional 800.
Before leaving Tsuruoka, stop by Nangakuji temple, where you can see the mummified remains of Tetsuryukai, one of Japans sokushinbutsu (self-mummified monks). The ultimate in dedication and endurance, this practice of self-mummification required practitioners (usually monks of the Shingon school of Buddhism) to starve themselves over a period of 1,000 days, eating pine needles and drinking poisonous lacquer so that their organs wouldnt rot after death. This extreme ascetic practice was meant to bring the monks enlightenment.
Just an hour away by train from Tsuruoka in Niigata Prefecture is Murakami a sleepy city surrounded by snowy mountains.
Among other things, Murakami is known for its sake no shiobiki (salted salmon). To see where it starts, swing by Iyoboya Salmon Museum for a glimpse into the world of the freshwater fish. As well as learning about the different types of salmon native to the area and how they are bred, the museum boasts windows through which you can peer into one of the streams. If you go between October and December, you may be able to watch the salmon breed. Iyoboya is open every day from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.; admission is 600 for adults, 300 for children.
Hanging out: Sake no shiobiki (salted salmon) dry in a store room in Murakami, Niigata Prefecture. | JESSE CHASE-LUBITZ
In addition to being a Salmon City, Murakami is also a castle town. Though the ruins of its castle do not extend to anything past old, sloping stone walls, standing on the site of the castle provides a scenic vista of the town from above. Getting there involves a pleasant walk up Mount Gagyu (134 meters). If, instead of hill climbing, you want a place to sit and rest, make a beeline for Fujimien, a 150-year-old tea shop that offers a modern teahouse experience through its old Edo Period (1603-1868) hallways.
Both Tsuruoka and Murakami are rich in culture, historical food traditions and natural beauty. Whether you are traveling in the depths of winter, when the mountains are blanketed in snow, or in the heat of summer, these cities invite those who are looking to stay a little longer and immerse themselves in the mystic practices and history of an underrated region.
An upmarket option in Tsuruoka is Yumizutei Isagoya. Located in Yunohama Onsen, its Western-style beds and beautiful onsen (hot-spring baths) ensure a comfortable stay. Prices range from 15,750 to 36,750 per person per night.
For a more affordable option, try Shonai Hotel Suiden Terrasse. This modern offering boasts onsen, locally produced foods and beautifully designed open architecture. Rooms range from 7,000 to 20,000 per night.
A luxurious traditional onsen experience can be had at Taikanso Senaminoyu in Murakami. Taikanso serves up two different dining options and there is a choice of indoor and outdoor baths, as well as private ones for an extra 5,500. Rooms are upward of 19,800 per night, including breakfast and dinner.
For a less expensive, more local and eco-tourism-oriented experience, consider staying in the home of a rice farmer. Located in Tokamachi, 40 minutes from downtown Murakami, Noka Minshuku Zaigomon has breakfast and dinner included, all cooked by the farmers obchan (grandmother). Rooms look out onto rice fields and tall mountains; one night costs 7,000.
For Tsuruoka, take the Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Niigata Station (around two hours; 10,560) and then the Inaho Limited Express to Tsuruoka Station (one hour 50 minutes; 4,330). From Tokyo, the bus is also an option: the Shonai Kotsu Express Service takes between six and nine hours and costs 7,800. For more information visit shonaikotsu.jp.
For Murakami, take the Joetsu Shinkansen to Niigata Station and change for the Inaho Limited Express to Murakami Station (50 minutes; 2,450).
Once in Tsuruoka or Murakami, renting a car is the best option, especially if you plan to leave the city center; public transport is limited, especially during the week. The Shonai Kotsu Haguro-Gassan Line runs from Tsuruoka Station to Mount Haguro (840) and beyond.
Go here to see the original:
Delicacies and the devout in northern Tsuruoka - The Japan Times
- The Lives of Others - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Aliens and Spiritual Enlightenment - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Dreams - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Open Your Eyes - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Spiritual Enlightenment and Grizzly Bears - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- I’m Alive! - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Seeing the World - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- First Taste of Spiritual Enlightenment - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Pause - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Welcome - November 8th, 2009 [November 8th, 2009]
- Resurrection Needed for the Catholic Church, not Jesus. Christianity, Islam ... - American Chronicle - April 5th, 2010 [April 5th, 2010]
- The Secret of Kells - Harvard Crimson - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- Taylor: The true Easter within - Lake County News - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- CHOICES! Your Go To Source for Enlightenment! / Spiritual Movie Morning - WCNC (subscription) - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- Sex Swami duped firangs in the US - NDTV.com - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- Girls' school defies Taliban terror - Times Online - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- Shen Yun Performers Present Spiritual Connotation with Life - The Epoch Times - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- Yoga Draws Criticism - TopNews United States - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- Banjamin Bratt: 'I Wanted to Be Anything But an Actor' - Palm Beach Post - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- The History of Buddhism - MPBN News - April 6th, 2010 [April 6th, 2010]
- Secrets of the Catholic Church - The National Law Journal - April 9th, 2010 [April 9th, 2010]
- U-Theatre of Taiwan dance troupe's West Coast debut spotlights its virtuosity - OregonLive.com - April 9th, 2010 [April 9th, 2010]
- Religion Calendar - Montreal Gazette - April 10th, 2010 [April 10th, 2010]
- Siquijor conducts recollection for parolees - Philippine Information Agency - April 10th, 2010 [April 10th, 2010]
- Prayer for guidance - Inquirer.net - April 10th, 2010 [April 10th, 2010]
- East Bay Buddhist temple strives to maintain relevance in new land - San Jose Mercury News - April 10th, 2010 [April 10th, 2010]
- Spiritual Journey: Stay-home mom Melody Melvin - The Huntsville Times - al.com (blog) - April 10th, 2010 [April 10th, 2010]
- What Does The Buddha Have To Do With Jesus? - Huffington Post (blog) - April 10th, 2010 [April 10th, 2010]
- Laura Dern and William H. Macy Heading to Cable - Inside TV (blog) - April 10th, 2010 [April 10th, 2010]
- American Guru Steven S. Sadleir brings Shaktipat to Spain and Italy - PR Web (press release) - April 11th, 2010 [April 11th, 2010]
- Who and What Is Buddha, Really? - Huffington Post (blog) - April 12th, 2010 [April 12th, 2010]
- The ACLU works to sap our spiritual strength - The Free Lance-Star - April 13th, 2010 [April 13th, 2010]
- Christ Enlightened, The Lost Teachings of Jesus Unveiled by Best-Selling ... - PR Web (press release) - April 13th, 2010 [April 13th, 2010]
- All About Kundalini Yoga - EmpowHer (blog) - April 14th, 2010 [April 14th, 2010]
- Catholic leadership's image tarnished by recurring scandal - Staunton News Leader - April 16th, 2010 [April 16th, 2010]
- Iowa Swami Who Beguiled the Jazz Age - New York Times - April 16th, 2010 [April 16th, 2010]
- More than a spiritual exercise - Nagaland Post - April 18th, 2010 [April 18th, 2010]
- Despite media smears, world and faithful have warmed to Benedict - Irish Times - April 18th, 2010 [April 18th, 2010]
- The Fool's Story in the Major Arcana - I-Newswire.com (press release) - April 19th, 2010 [April 19th, 2010]
- Pakistan's pre-Islamic art goes on show in Paris - DAWN.com - April 20th, 2010 [April 20th, 2010]
- New author shares emotional enlightenment - The Trinidad Guardian - April 20th, 2010 [April 20th, 2010]
- The theft of yoga - Washington Post (blog) - April 20th, 2010 [April 20th, 2010]
- Enter the Realm of the Buddha - Georgetown University The Hoya - April 22nd, 2010 [April 22nd, 2010]
- Indian guru arrested over sex scandal: Police - Montreal Gazette - April 22nd, 2010 [April 22nd, 2010]
- Life Out Here: Tea Party with a twist - Imperial Valley Press (subscription) - April 22nd, 2010 [April 22nd, 2010]
- April 25: A Turning Point for Today's China - The Epoch Times - April 22nd, 2010 [April 22nd, 2010]
- Nityananda bound devotees with non-disclosure agreements - Sify - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- Buddhist Extremists in Bangladesh Beat, Take Christians Captive - Pakistan Christian TV - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- Liberty and the Death of God - American Thinker - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- A Commentary on Religious Intolerance & the Dalai Lama - Subversify (blog) - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- The Fool's Story in the Major Arcana - BigNews.biz (press release) - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- Review: Seeking Life's Meaning - New York Times (blog) - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- An Analysis Of I Corinthians 15 - Blogger News Network (blog) - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- Luxury in spiritual Ladakh, India - Times Online - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- JD Salinger: A 'Selfish Old Goat,' But Not a Perv - Politics Daily (blog) - April 24th, 2010 [April 24th, 2010]
- Sorry, your patent on yoga has run out - Washington Post (blog) - April 25th, 2010 [April 25th, 2010]
- Leggo my ego - Winnipeg Free Press - April 25th, 2010 [April 25th, 2010]
- Church Set to Regain Museum Treasures - The Moscow Times - April 28th, 2010 [April 28th, 2010]
- The multiple sides of Ricky Williams - San Diego Union Tribune - April 28th, 2010 [April 28th, 2010]
- The Dalai Lama, Buddhism, and Tibet: Reflecting on a Half-Century of Change - Student Pulse - April 28th, 2010 [April 28th, 2010]
- The Kumbh Mela: what can it teach us about mental health, consciousness and ... - Psychology Today (blog) - April 28th, 2010 [April 28th, 2010]
- THE IMAGINARIUM OF DOCTOR PARNASSUS (DVD) - Film Threat - April 28th, 2010 [April 28th, 2010]
- A Leg Up on “THE HUMAN CENTIPEDE” - FANGORIA (blog) - April 28th, 2010 [April 28th, 2010]
- The hottest docs at Hot Docs - Globe and Mail - April 29th, 2010 [April 29th, 2010]
- Florida Dems shut down state House - Politico - April 29th, 2010 [April 29th, 2010]
- Reading Energy Fields with Tanis Day - The Barrie Examiner - April 30th, 2010 [April 30th, 2010]
- Book flights to India for a luxury mountain retreat - Southall Travel - April 30th, 2010 [April 30th, 2010]
- In death, mass murderer sees freedom - Citizens Voice - April 30th, 2010 [April 30th, 2010]
- Author Becky Walsh on enlightenment through sex - Dscriber - April 30th, 2010 [April 30th, 2010]
- Is Western Christianity Suffering From Spiritual Amnesia? - Huffington Post (blog) - April 30th, 2010 [April 30th, 2010]
- The Road That Leads to Nowhere - The Road That Leads to You - New York News Today - May 2nd, 2010 [May 2nd, 2010]
- In Their Words: Her path to inner peace - Times Herald-Record - May 2nd, 2010 [May 2nd, 2010]
- Rielle, Oprah, and Zen America's Truth-Off - Politics Daily (blog) - May 3rd, 2010 [May 3rd, 2010]
- CathBlog - Newman's reasoned faith outshines postmodernism's dark stars - CathNews - May 13th, 2010 [May 13th, 2010]
- Light of the Sufis exhibit explores Islam's mystical side - Houston Chronicle - May 13th, 2010 [May 13th, 2010]
- The last word: In search of enlightenment, mindfulness and nirvana in Silicon ... - Financial Times - May 14th, 2010 [May 14th, 2010]
- 'Light in the Wilderness,' by M. Catherine Thomas - Mormon Times - May 14th, 2010 [May 14th, 2010]
- Woodrow Wilson and the Progressive-Fascist Distinction - U.S. News & World Report (blog) - May 14th, 2010 [May 14th, 2010]
- Are You Praying to the Only True God? - WEBCommentary - May 14th, 2010 [May 14th, 2010]
- Haunting 'Lourdes' Revels in the Poetry of Ambiguity - HollywoodChicago.com - May 14th, 2010 [May 14th, 2010]