"Lonely Planet readers never really experience the culture"

It had been five weeks since I had seen an independent tourist in Saraguro when I received a text message just before midday something to the extent of tourist near bank heading to market in cowboy hat and dark glasses. I hurriedly lathered my twoyearold with sun block put on his hat and threw him up on my back grabbed the weekly shopping list and dashed out the door.One can never rea

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