Greece's Ionian Islands were where "the blue really begins" as far as writer Lawrence Durrell was concerned. Durrell had the mots justes, as always. Like legions of travellers and tourists before and after, he revelled in the intensities of light and colour that Corfu and its sister islands reflect from the mirrors of sea and sky.
The main islands of the Ionian chain, Corfu, Lefkada, Kefalonia, Ithaki (Ithaca) and Zakynthos (Zante) tumble down the west coast of mainland Greece like stepping stones to the larger Greek world. History has left the Ionian isles with a fascinating cultural legacy, the result of Corinthian, Byzantine, Venetian, French and British influences that extend from architecture to cuisine. Corfu Town or Kerkyra, to give this handsome hub its proper Greek name boasts the stateliest of Neoclassical buildings, legacy of the 19th-century British Protectorate of the Ionian islands.
During two short spells of Napoleonic occupation, the French left their mark, too. This influence is best seen in Kerkyra's arcaded Liston, a tribute to Paris's Rue de Rivoli and a sun-drenched venue for coffee and people-watching. It runs alongside the town's huge grassy open space, the Spianada. Before all this, the Venetians bequeathed all of the Ionian islands a distinctive landscape of Italianate buildings, silver-leafed olive trees and luscious vines.
Corfu, with its dozens of beach resorts and its lively bar and club culture, remains the major attraction for visitors. Yet, beyond the conspicuous tourism of the island's coastal strips lies a hinterland of soaring mountains and lush woodlands where a network of paths and trails will delight those seeking peace and quiet. About 20km south of Corfu is the beautiful little island of Paxi (Paxos), a relaxing day-trip break from the larger island.
A further 50km south of Paxi lies the more cohesive Ionian group of Lefkada, Ithaki, Kefalonia and Zakynthos. Lefkada's main town, Lefkas, is a cheery mix of tourism and daily Greek life while the rest of the island offers pine forests and a rocky coastline with a chain of superb beaches gracing the western coast.
South again is Kefalonia, with the smaller outlier of Ithaki hugging its north-east coastline. Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionians, an island of rugged mountains, towering coastal cliffs and golden beaches. Throw in Byzantine monasteries, subterranean lakes and fascinating wineries that produce the subtle, yet lively, Robola vintages and not even Captain Corelli's Kefalonian mandolin need distract you.
Neighbouring Ithaki, a coxcomb of rocky wooded hills, rises from a lake-like sea. Ithaki was the mythical home of Odysseus, and today it retains a reclusive charm, untouched by the sometimes frenetic beach culture of larger neighbours such as Zakynthos, the southernmost of the Ionian chain and known popularly by its Italian name, Zante. The bars, cafs and clubs of Zante's eastern and southern beach resorts are balanced by an interior of great serenity that merits the Venetians' description of it as the "Flower of the Orient".
The island of Kythira, suggested birthplace of the mythical Aphrodite, lies 12km off the southernmost peninsulas of the Peloponnese. Kythira may seem a long way from the rest of the Ionian islands but it lies within the Ionian jurisdiction and is a magical escape for those seeking a more Greek-oriented island. Many Greeks visit Kythira in high summer but in late spring and autumn it is a haven of uncrowded beaches, great walks and laid-back village life. There are daily flights with Olympic Air (00 30 801 801 0101; olympicair.com) from Athens to Kythira from April to October (not Thursdays for the rest of the year).
Such contrasts make up the enduring appeal of the Ionian islands. Above all, in the vibrant street life of island towns the spirit of an older Greece, the spirit of filoxenia, of unforced hospitality, endures.
For an active and unique way of exploring the Ionian islands, World Expeditions (020-8545 9030; worldexpeditions.co.uk) offers an eight-day "Ionian Islands Bike and Sail" programme visiting Corfu, Lefkada, Kefalonia, Ithaki and Paxi by sailing boat and bike. The price of 1,250 per person covers everything except flights, with departures on 28 September, 5 October and 12 October. Other tour operators offering hotel-or villa-and-flight packages include Ionian & Aegean Island Holidays (020-8459 0777; ionianislandholidays.com), Ionian Villas (01935 477196; ionian-villas.co.uk), Think Ionian Islands (020-7377 8518; thinkionianislands.com) and Olympic Holidays (020-8492 6868; olympicholidays.com). A long-standing Corfu-based travel provider is All Ways Travel (00 30 26610 33955; corfuallwaystravel.com), which can arrange accommodation and local tours.
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The Ionian Islands: Where the blue really begins
