Sucka Free Soul: The Vegan Hood Chefs Honor Southern Heritage With a Frisco Twist – KQED

It was more than enough to excite any vegan eaterwhether full-time, part-time, or first-time. I took a seat with them to hear about how it all started.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

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KQED: When did you each begin your individual journeys as vegans?

Ronnishia: I started my transition into veganism in 2010, 2011. I was an undergrad at Texas Southern University, and we were roommates. I had hypertension blood pressure, so my boyfriend at the time educated me on a plant-based diet, my weight and overall health. I did more research and I started the process. I cut out red meat, and eventually over 10 to 12 years I became full vegan.

Rheema: We were best friends. When she started her transition in college I thought she was crazyshe was eating differently and cut all her hair off. But when we graduated and came home [to San Francisco], we started to learn more about food justice. She challenged me to do a fast with her, so we did it for 30 days. I realized how much energy I had and how good I felt afterward. I was a struggling pescatarian at first, and then around 2012 I transitioned to being vegan.

How did The Vegan Hood Chefs start?

Ronnishia: It started in 2017. We started this journey by wanting to eat healthy. We lived in a food desert as Black folks. Most of our work is in our own communities, which are food deserts, where people arent having conversations around veganism in a culturally connected way. We wanted our families and folks we love to join the conversation about food justice. And we didn't see people like us leading those conversations.

At first, we started a food page on Instagram to raise awareness on what we were eating and cooking. We didnt plan to start a business at all. Then, one of our friends at the time was hosting an event and their caterer backed out at the last minute, so she asked us to do it instead. At the time, we had a partner in culinary schoolmy cousinand we figured we could try to do it together. My day job used a kitchen whenever we needed to cook for kids, so we used that. [That first event] we cooked for 200 people and it sold out. That spread through word of mouth and online and it took off from there. It just filled a need in the community around veganism and eating healthy as a healing practice in Black and Brown communities.

Whats an example of a dish on your menu that is popular?

Rheema: The Sucka Free Poboy is special. Were intentional about naming our items. Its based on San Francisco [Sucka Free City] and how we speak here, but inspired by our grandmothers, who are both from Louisiana. We grew up eating this. Our Po'boy uses oyster mushrooms battered in the way our grandmothers would do it. Its fried, with lettuce, tomatoes, purple cabbage, green onions and topped with our house sauce.

Ronnishia: Also, the bread we use is super awesome. Its from Acme, a local bakery. Our mushrooms are sourced by Far West Fungi!

How does your food reflect your connection to the Bay Area?

Ronnishia: Im from Hunters Point and Rheema is from Lakeview. Its printed on our truck. We have a deep connection to our heritage and culture, but also to The City. A lot of families migrated here from the South to work in the shipyards, so theres a deep relationship to places like Louisiana and Texas. We bring that out in our food with the names and ingredients we choose. We want you to get our experience as Black folks living in San Francisco.

Rheema: Were all over the Bay, too. The beauty of the truck is that we get to honor who we are, but also meet people where they're at. Weve been from S.F. to Richmond to Oakland to Stockton to Sacramento to Santa Cruz to San Ramon to Sonoma County and back. Its dope. Were popping up everywhere. We also did that when we didnt have the truck, but now its about giving more accessibility in our communities. Weve also been partnering with Bay Area businesses like Natrully Herbs in Richmond, a Black-owned collaborative space with smoothies and alkaline foods, which is a step above vegan.

What challenges have you overcome with running an independent business?

Ronnishia: Lack of representation. We started off in this industry without any real knowledge around how to run a food business. Fortunately, we picked that up along the way. But its often difficult for communities of color to have the capital to start a business, even when were being innovative. It makes you doubt yourself. Lacking access to mentorship and support, we had to figure out how we do it all as we go.

Also, its difficult to be a Black woman in a male-dominated industry. It feels like we have to work 10 times as hard to be taken seriously and have the same opportunities. The food industry is fast-paced and changing, so theres always a need to pivot and keep your business sustainable. During the pandemic we were affectedbefore we had a food truckand we had to completely revamp our model from pop-ups and home events to using social media more and engaging our audience. Its hard to find good, reliable staff too. Thats happening all over the food industry right now.

When youre not eating your own food, where do you go to grub on vegan dishes?

Rheema: Our top favorite is Om Sabor, on Grove Street [in San Francisco]. Its Latinx inspired and influenced. They make the best muthafuckin krab sushi and food fusions. The enchiladas there are hella good. They do vegan plates that you can share in groups. Golden Lotus, in Oakland. Comidadejen, Casa Borinquea and Koquito, Puerto Rican-infused places.

Ronnishia: Malibu Burgers in Piedmont is good. We go to Wildseed a lot; they have a delicious mushroom pizza we love. Theres great Ethiopian food like Oasis Cafe in Fillmore. Caf Romanat in Oakland. Vegan Solstice in Stockton, which hosts pop-ups. Vegan Heat, Black-owned, thats a pop-up.

Rheema: Oh, whats our favorite ice cream place called? Kub Nice Cream in Oakland. They have this coconut and key lime ice cream. Oh my gosh. Its hella good. Makes you wanna slap your momma.

What are you cooking up next?

Ronnishia: Were working on a cookbook that should be coming out towards the end of this year. Were working on more online content as wellwe want to tap into creating more video content, to provide resources around how to shop and where to start being vegan. This work is something we really enjoy, and these are the conversations we have with people from our communities who visit our truck. We have a blog we utilize somewhatwhich the Bizerkeley Vegan used to write forbut we havent been able to do that as much lately. Our main mission is to just keep connecting and educating our community, and to cook in as many ways as possible.

Rheema: Were in the Mission a lot. You cant miss us.

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Sucka Free Soul: The Vegan Hood Chefs Honor Southern Heritage With a Frisco Twist - KQED