The journey started with a 45-minute private seaplane ride from Nadi International Airport. Bobbing through tufts of white cloud, we passed over first archetypal jungled islands, then the Great Astrolabe Reef the worlds fourth largest barrier reef that abuts Kokomo, before the descent to the resort. These scenes seemed simultaneously familiar and surreal, painted entirely in primary colours.
Eventually, we reach our destination, a vantage point to soak up the vista of the piercing white sands and blue waters of the South Pacific. We can even see the island where the French version of Survivor was filmed.
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My guide Tony says guests always feel the island as soon as they arrive. Hardly surprising given arriving on the island means being welcomed in song by the resorts entire staff, an experience that is surprisingly moving. Especially when you realise that everybody, from the receptionists and head chef to the marine biologists who keep an eye on the islands many conservation projects, all lend their voices. Bula, indeed.
Fiji has always suited holidaymakers across the generations, and that goes especially for Kokomo. We spy honeymooners who hold hands at every available opportunity, jumbles of extended families grandparents enjoying precious time with sandy toddlers, sisters-in-law gossiping on sun loungers with the kids happily in the Kaji Club and retirees sitting in companionable silence while they enjoy another sorbet sunset.
The chic and spacious open-plan one-, two- and three-bedroom villas all have private infinity pools and Fijian design touches in the woven matting and wooden details, as well as colourful abstract paintings by Australian artist Chris Kenyon (who lived and painted on the island for six months). Theres a hammock under a palm tree, a peach of a beach at the end of the garden and a minibar that even holds house-made dark chocolate-covered honeycomb which Id consider requesting as my last meal on earth.
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There are also the five grand residences, resplendent on the hilltops with sweeping catch-your-breath views, up to six bedrooms, several lounge and dining areas each, a pool (of course) and the services of a private butler, nanny and a buggy the only transport on the island.
Its easy to imagine that the larger villas and the residences make light work of multi-generational holidays, always offering space and the opportunity for privacy when needed. Anyway, squabbling is hard to really commit to in paradise. It never feels busy on the island dont rush, we are constantly told by staff. The message: slow to island time. Breathe. Relax.
On Kokomo you could happily do absolutely nothing at all, never even leave your villa. Or perhaps just read by the beach with periodic sighs at the pristine surrounds: vibrant hibiscus and strelitzia flowers, bulbous banana blossoms, the sweep of the shoreline palm trees, the unending blue sky, the beach you cant stop taking photos of
You could visit the Yaukuve spa for a Pacific Mastery massage, or try the local take on the traditional Moroccan hammam. For something more vigorous, theres water sports from sailing to kayaking. Or theres the hilltop gym where the view makes a fine respite from shoulder presses or a private PT session.
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Exploring the neighbouring reef, stretching some 65km around the Kadavu group of islands, is recommended. Its a prized place for diving, snorkelling and fishing indeed many guests travel from afar to fish for the likes of dog-tooth tuna with the islands two resident fishermen.
We headed out twice, first on a guided reef tour with two of the islands marine biologists, whose projects include coral nurseries and clam restoration. Kokomo guests can also sponsor a manta ray as part of the islands Kokomo Manta Conservation Project. Which goes a long way to explaining why some of the majestic rays we spied on our second snorkel, out near an uninhabited island near the barrier reefs wall, gloried in the names Pancake and Mr Willy.
Witnessing the profusion of colourful corals, and also the coral bleaching hitting some of them due to the rise in water temperatures, is a stark reminder of the preciousness and precariousness of nature. Youd never want to take it for granted.
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Theres bounty on land too at the islands farm. The lettuce and herbs are from the propertys land, just as the breakfast eggs are from the islands own chickens, and this year was a bumper heirloom tomato season. For executive chef Andy Bryant, planning the menu at one of the islands three restaurants, Beach Shack, is to begin with whats available first. Theres also farm-fresh Italian at the poolside Kokocabana restaurant and at the punny Walker dPlank thats so close to the waters edge we watch schools of baby sharks as we dine on local chef Caroline Oakleys daily changing menu that melds Fijian, Japanese and subcontinental flavours.
Beyond what we eat, where we swim and what we see, we feel, as Tony says. For instance, when we join a traditional kava ceremony, performed at all important moments in life in villages all around Fiji. Kava, made from the ground roots of the plant Piper methysticum, is also drunk at the end of a long day to lift spirits and relax the body.
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Its there too when the staff sing their farewell to us, by which point everyone knows our names. And what we feel is supremely relaxed and entirely happy. Weve been swimming with mantas and picked fresh mint, soaked in our villas enormous bathtub and in the balmy ocean, and lapped up every sunrise. Weve felt the energy of the island and its people. Bula! we shout to everyone we pass.
Accommodation at Kokomo Private Island Fiji includes daily breakfast, lunch and dinner, nanny services, daily laundry and pressing, non-motorised water sports and more. A one-bedroom Sunrise villa starts from US$2,200 per night, and a Grand Residence from US$6,900 (all rates exclude 15 per cent government tax and are based on off-peak stays). See kokomoislandfiji.com for details.
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Dont hurry, be happy at Fijis carefree Kokomo Private Island - Style
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