It was around the end of August when Peter and Jennifer Bernard moored their 50ft cutter-rigged ketch, Steel Sapphire, at the marina below Londons Tower Bridge.
Their journey to circumnavigate the globe was supposed to have taken them back to Sydney within five years, but after four, they had only reached the British capital. They were halfway round and years late.
The forces of the natural world with the dictates of seasonal cyclones and a global pandemic had seen their beautifully laid plan fall apart.
Peter, 50, learned to sail as a teenager and had always planned to sail around the world when he retired. It was Jennifer, 52, having lost a close friend to cancer, who challenged Peter when they got together: Why would we wait until we were in our 60s?
Unlike most who tackle the odyssey, they didnt come from engineering or trade backgrounds, so the two self-described corporate desk jockeys spent eight years learning about engine maintenance, plumbing and first aid.
But the truth is, we could never have learned everything, Peter says. Ultimately, you just have to set a date.
The couple sold their three-bedroom house in Glebe to buy the yacht that would become their home on the seas. They left their management jobs in the pharmaceutical industry and set off from Sydney Harbour on 1 July 2018.
Between 2010 and 2018, everything that we planned we did to the letter and left on the day we said we would leave, Peter says.
Everything was perfect. And we then had a very detailed plan for what was going to happen next month by month, everywhere we were going to be in the world, and not a damn thing of [that] has come true.
After travelling along the east coast of Australia and then from Darwin to Indonesia, Jennifer says it was in Thailand that their beautifully laid plan fell apart.
There, a small refit got delayed and delayed and delayed, and we missed our opportunity to sail across the Indian Ocean.
Because of seasonal cyclones, You have to follow the weather. The weather dictates as to where we could be in the world and what time its safest.
The couple decided to make the most of the situation by returning to Indonesias Anambas Islands, which they had raced through on their way north.
If no one knows about them, thats great, because they are a hidden gem, Jennifer says.
At the time, Peter says, they thought: Its not that bad, its only the first year. Weve got all of 2020. What can possibly go wrong in 2020?
The Bernards arrived in Maldives the same day authorities declared a Covid-19 lockdown, which saw them and those aboard 15 other boats confined to their vessels.
After a month of being forbidden from setting foot on land, the government gave those on private boats permission to go ashore on a private island during daylight hours.
After four months in the Maldives, on 11 July 2020 the couple sailed on.
They were one of nine boats to secure a permit from the British Indian Ocean Territory Administration to enter Chagos Islands despite Covid restrictions.
The islands in the middle of the Indian Ocean, 500km south of the southern tip of the Maldives, and thousands of miles from land in any other direction, was the home of the Chagossian people until 1973, when the entire population was forcibly removed by the British colonial administration.
While the British allow private boats to stop at Chagos if they can prove they have a valid reason for safety at sea respite, the UK refuses to allow the descendants of Chagos Islanders to return.
As part of their three weeks on the islands, the couple spent time on Boddam Island, seeing the vestiges of homes, stores, a church and a cemetery all solidly built over a 100-year period from stone, and now lying in ruins since the people were forced to leave.
Peter says what was equally sobering was the rubbish broken beer bottles scattered among the ruins, and assorted sailing debris including buoys, floats, jerry cans, a damaged rudder, even a mast left by a different era of cruising before the concept of leaving a clean wake was established.
It was hard to know what to feel more sad about the fate of the Chagossian people, forcibly evicted and unable to return despite UN resolutions demanding that the UK allow them to, or the terrible abuse of the white privilege enjoyed by the yachties who were allowed to come here when the Chagossians were not, and showed so little appreciation of the beautiful and pristine environment that they spoiled it for everyone in the future, Peter says.
After three weeks on the Chagos Islands, the Bernards sailed on to Seychelles on 4 August 2020, and thats where the world really wasnt opening up as fast as we hoped or wanted, Jennifer recalls.
We had to weigh up that decision: do we sail on to South Africa and miss out all the islands we wanted to see, like Mauritius and Runion and Madagascar, because they were all closed, and even South Africa was closed, so it was a risk to sail there, albeit wed been told it was likely to open soon, Peter explains.
They made the decision to stay in Seychelles for an extra year to be able to see all the places they had planned to on their adventure.
The Bernards had to accept theyd lost two years out of their five-year plan. They decided that in order to get their finances back on track, they would stop in London to work and earn enough money to complete the second half of their circumnavigation.
While the pandemics disruptions cast their plans into disarray, this also took them off the beaten track for most sailing cruising routes, and the couple say its some of these places that proved the most memorable. For example, because Covid prevented them from visiting so many countries, they decided to sail an alternative route through the Red Sea, which took them to Tanzania.
There they climbed Mount Kilimanjaro, went on safari, hung out in coffee houses in Zanzibar and spent a few days helping a remote island community where their friends had installed a generator the year before.
Weve had places where the sailing was better for sure. Weve had places where the food was better for sure, but Tanzania was just this multifaceted experience Peter says.
When the couple sailed through the South Atlantic, they travelled from Cape Town to Namibia, then on to Saint Helena, where Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled, and eventually on to Ascension Island.
Jennifer says it was in this last place that to get ashore, its the most difficult dinghy landing with this huge swell coming in.
You have to partially tie up to this pier, which you then have to leap in between swells with these huge Galpagos sharks circling underneath your dinghy just waiting for you to fall in.
And these are the bitey human-eating kind of sharks. Youre not allowed to swim in Ascension, because the sharks developed a taste for humans. It was incredibly exhilarating and scary, and I cant believe I did it.
For Peter who emigrated to Australia from Scotland in his 20s after falling in love with the country as a backpacker the highlight of their journey was sailing up the River Clyde into the port in Largs, where his father taught him to sail.
I was expecting that my dad would come out in his boat and greet us, Peter says. The bit I wasnt expecting was that my parents had organised for a bagpiper to be standing on the bow of my dads boat so as we moored it up to them, the bagpiper struck up Scotland the Brave and then proceeded to serenade us all the way into the marina.
That was a pretty epic moment. I dont know that many other moments in my life will be as epic. Bear in mind, this is Scotland and by rights it should be pouring down with rain, but it wasnt. It was beautiful sunshine and the heavens smiled and it was perfect.
The pandemic has made us change our plans, Jennifer explains. This is just a different chapter to our journey. And so were going to make the most of living in London and enjoying what this amazing city has to offer.
We dont know how long its going to be. We know it has to be a fair length of time because we really need to save up a lot more money, and its a chance to spend time with Peters family and friends.
We do believe that we will finish our circumnavigation, but as they say, sailors plans are drawn in the sand at low tide.
Originally posted here:
- You could own this private island off the Florida Keys for $75 million - AOL - February 27th, 2024 [February 27th, 2024]
- From $389k: Who owns Qlds private islands, what they paid - Courier Mail - February 27th, 2024 [February 27th, 2024]
- The World's 16 Most Expensive Private Islands to Visit - Yahoo Finance - February 24th, 2024 [February 24th, 2024]
- Cruise lines will pay new tax on private islands in the Bahamas - FOX 35 Orlando - February 24th, 2024 [February 24th, 2024]
- Michael Stern's JDS Development Sued Over Private Air Travel - The Real Deal - February 24th, 2024 [February 24th, 2024]
- YouTube Star MrBeast Takes Over Royal Caribbean's Private Island - Cruise Hive - January 30th, 2024 [January 30th, 2024]
- 7 Private Islands In The U.S. That You Can Book For Less Than $1,000 A Night - TheTravel - January 30th, 2024 [January 30th, 2024]
- Peter Island Resort Re-Opens with Luxurious New Amenities in 2024 - St Vincent Times - January 29th, 2024 [January 29th, 2024]
- Jeffrey Epstein's Controversial Private Island To Be Turned Into Resort: Report - NDTV - January 7th, 2024 [January 7th, 2024]
- Where is Jeffrey Epstein's island and what happened there? - KRTV NEWS Great Falls - January 7th, 2024 [January 7th, 2024]
- UK Royal Had Orgy With Minor Girls On Private Island, Epstein Files Reveal - NDTV - January 7th, 2024 [January 7th, 2024]
- World's best private island resorts - Cond Nast Traveller India - January 7th, 2024 [January 7th, 2024]
- Dont hurry, be happy at Fijis carefree Kokomo Private Island - Style - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- How to Visit the Pacific Coast of Panama, According to a Travel Expert - Travel + Leisure - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- Fresh Puerto Rican Tostones and Stone Crab Highlight New ... - PR Newswire - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- Progressive White Women in Shambles After Taylor Swift Becomes ... - The Hard Times - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- If You Can Take the Cable Car to the Colosseum, You're in Vietnam - The New York Times - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- Hot property: five homes for sale on the Canary Islands - Financial Times - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- Where to Relocate: Cayman Islands with KPMG Cayman Islands - The Fintech Times - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- 10 budget-friendly island resorts for a cheap beach vacation - USA Today - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- Talk Show Host Patricia Bryan Sues Police and Government | Loop ... - Loop News Cayman - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- Insulators in Farasan Islands Reserve to protect birds - Arab News Pakistan - October 29th, 2023 [October 29th, 2023]
- Iconic Piece of New Disney Ship Arrives at Shipyard - Cruise Hive - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- The worlds tiniest island is for sale - The Spaces - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- WHAT'S NEW IN THE BAHAMAS IN OCTOBER 2023 - PR Newswire - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- New Zealand named one of the friendliest countries in Conde Nast ... - New Zealand Herald - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- Annual Cruise Hive Awards Open for Best Ships, Cruise Lines and ... - Cruise Hive - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- The best islands in Europe: Readers' Choice Awards 2023 - Cond Nast Traveller - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- Islands in the sun - Irish Post - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- Relax and unwind: where travellers find well-being and peace in the ... - Euronews - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- What Prigozhin's Death Reveals About Russia Mother Jones - Mother Jones - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- SERHANT. Achieves $4 Billion in Volume at Three Year Milestone - PR Newswire - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- supports British Virgin Islands with debt management reform ... - Commonwealth - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- Discovering Easter Island and Pitcairn by boat - Yachting Monthly - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- Cleanup from Maui fires complicated by island's logistical ... - Greenfield Daily Reporter - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- Commission on Limits of Continental Shelf to Hold Fifty-Ninth ... - United Nations - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- HSBC appoints Head of Wealth and Personal Banking for Channel ... - Channel Eye - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- Downriver Dispatches - The Wahkiakum County Eagle - October 5th, 2023 [October 5th, 2023]
- The 7 Best Private Villas and Escapes in Queensland Australia - Robb Report - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- 4 Picturesque Private Islands on Airbnb You Need to See to Believe - HGTV Canada - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Five of The Best Islands in Malaysia - British Muslim Magazine - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Best Islands and Resorts in the Caribbean - 86758 - Luxury Travel Magazine - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Luxury beyond boundaries: Exploring the world's most exclusive ... - TravelDailyNews International - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- 10 Island Destinations That Will Help You Plan A Budget-Friendly ... - TheTravel - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Caribbean resort outlines US$8 million rebranding overhaul - TOPHOTELNEWS - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Caribbean cruising gears up for one of its biggest years yet - Travel Weekly - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Citi Ultima Card review: Luxury private island access, supercar drive ... - AsiaOne - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Union pool recognized by training company | Local News ... - The Missourian - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Arctic Circle Express Train Journey in Lofoten Islands and Narvik ... - Luxury Travel Magazine - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- How Maui's Wildfire Sparked a Disaster Capitalist Power Grab for ... - Earthjustice - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Pres. inaugurates completed projects in three islands of Laamu atoll - Raajjemv - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- Insight: Boosting Resilience of Pacific Islands' Infrastructure - Mirage News - August 30th, 2023 [August 30th, 2023]
- These Are The 10 Best Islands To Visit In Europe This Summer - TheTravel - July 23rd, 2023 [July 23rd, 2023]
- Billionaire who visited Epstein island pours thousands into coffers of vulnerable Dem Senate races - Yahoo News - July 23rd, 2023 [July 23rd, 2023]
- MSC's Explora Journeys Takes Delivery of First-Ever Cruise Ship - Cruise Hive - July 23rd, 2023 [July 23rd, 2023]
- Paradise Found: Discover The 6 Best All-Inclusive Resorts in The ... - Wealth Of Geeks - July 23rd, 2023 [July 23rd, 2023]
- How to holiday in the Seychelles with a budget-friendly itinerary - New Zealand Herald - July 23rd, 2023 [July 23rd, 2023]
- New construction home on Long Island, a small town off the coast of ... - Press Herald - July 23rd, 2023 [July 23rd, 2023]
- Geopolitical duel in the Pacific: Solomon Islands security at risk as ... - The Interpreter - July 11th, 2023 [July 11th, 2023]
- Lake Champlain trip highlights paddling and campground amenities - Adirondack Explorer - July 11th, 2023 [July 11th, 2023]
- Inside the subsea cable firm secretly helping American take on China - Reuters - July 11th, 2023 [July 11th, 2023]
- The ultimate holiday home? A $100 million private island in the Bahamas that starred in James Bond and Pirates of the ... - Country Life - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- 8 Of The Best Private Islands To Rent In 2023 - Forbes - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Getting Scuba-Certified in Fiji Is the Best Way to Explore the Underwater World - Robb Report - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Find your own island in the sun amid the blissful atolls of the Maldives - Evening Standard - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Jeffrey Epstein sexual abuse case: Deutsche Bank to pay $75 mn to settle a suit - Hindustan Times - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- JPMorgan CEO Jamie Dimon says he's 'so sad' the bank had relationship with Jeffrey Epstein - CNBC - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Top seven luxurious private flight getaways in Texas - South West Londoner - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- What Are the Most Expensive Celebrity Divorce Settlements? - We Got This Covered - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Getting Scuba-Certified in Fiji Is the Best Way to Explore the Underwater World - Yahoo Singapore News - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- AG nominee says more staffing, resources needed | News ... - Virgin Islands Daily News - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Carefree and car-free: The glorious islands where vehicles are ... - Daily Mail - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Reinsurance firm supporting treatment centre fundraiser - Royal Gazette - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Corinthia to open luxury resort in Maldives - Times of Malta - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Investing in Scotland's islands - gov.scot - The Scottish Government - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- Calls to make education 'more affordable' for Pacific island students - Stuff - May 18th, 2023 [May 18th, 2023]
- 14 Romantic Resorts with Private Plunge Pools - Islands - December 26th, 2022 [December 26th, 2022]
- Rainy Lake Island - Northern Ontario, Ontario , Canada - Private Islands - December 26th, 2022 [December 26th, 2022]
- Darby Island - The Exumas, Bahamas , Caribbean - Private Islands - December 21st, 2022 [December 21st, 2022]
- Private islands for sale in Queensland going cheap, but lifestyle has ... - December 18th, 2022 [December 18th, 2022]