Kalymnos Island cuisine begs to be savored – Hellenic News of America

From high atop St. Savvas Monastery the lush agricultural Pothia Valley is like green parkland bisecting this rocky land of Kalymnos Island. Groves of olives, fruits, grapes, dairy cattle, goats and vegetables thrive. Whats available from the surrounding Aegean is legendary.

Agronomist Giannis Karamalis said 20% of the permanent population of 12,000 was involved in agriculture. The volcanic soil loose with silica is ideal for grapes. Guava and other fruit trees have been found to do well and are gaining in popularity on the island. At one time truffles were abundant but unfortunately have disappeared.

Like many Greek islands, theres not an abundance of rainfall. For the vineyards that dryness concentrates the sugar and intensifies the flavors of grapes, producing sweet wines. The best are made from sun-dried grapes producing a brandy-like after dinner wine.

Winery Coursiotis

Mr. George Kouzsiotisks compact winery has vines of wild flowers draped over timeless stonewalls. The grape arbor shades the terrace of the ageless farmhouse as we sip Winery Coursiotis deep sweet red. It was a 19th century postcard scene.

The vineyard seemed almost unkempt. George believes in organic natural growth agriculture. The grape vine vied with orange and mandarin trees.

Winery Coursiotis is for locals and produces the sweet wine preferred for Orthodox communion. Aging is on-site in natural caves that are wine cooler perfect providing even more 19th century atmosphere. The wine is unfiltered enhancing the intense depth of concentrated ripe muscato and foukno grapes.

Beekeeper Mr. George Kouzsiotisk

Many vineyards on the islands keep bees. Mr. Kouzsiotisks beehives lay on the edge of a wild flower and herb-speckled field.

Given a choice Greek bees prefer thyme. Kalymnos honey is 70% from thyme flowers, but Mr. Kouzsiotisks has tested at 90%. Other islands and regions, such as Crete, average 50%.

Having tasted many varieties of Greek honeys and thymes in particular, George is not boasting about the intense flavor of his honey. As bees wonder what were doing he deftly drips some on my hand fresh from the comb. I can see and taste why the gods appointed honey the official sweetener for Mt. Olympus.

Poppis Taverna, Vlichadia

Vlichadia harbor is located in southern Kalymnos five kilometers from Pothia. With the protection of its dramatic cliffs, Vlichada is a reminder that the Aegean Sea is still an economic engine for Kalymnos Island. The cliffs and caves made it popular with pirates and smugglers in the past.

Today the villages serene coastal views, beaches and many traditional taverns make it equally popular with visitors and islanders. Accommodations, the private Museum of Maritime Findings, dive shops, boat charters and commercial fishing craft all find Vlichadia charming.

Poppis Taverna on the large waterfront main square offers views and classic Greek cuisine. The table overflowed with dishes leisurely enjoyed with local wine.

Its easy to understand why Greeks spend hours dining. There are so many relaxing locations and food that begs to be savored, not devoured.

Annas Taverna

Greek society is all about family. So naturally Annas Taverna is a family affair. Anna Tsakkos is the chef; Mikes her father, who among other tasks painted the tables, and Pantelis, her brother, is the amiable front of the house. The compact restaurant at waters edge epitomizes a seamens tavern in its simplicity, and a Greek one in its colors and ambiance.

Yet Annas Taverna is in the 21st century. Chef Annas presentations are stylish, her recipes subtly sophisticated while maintaining that fresh-from-the-dock taste.

Azul Wine Bar

There is a stunning panoramic view of the Aegean from street level. A colorful staircase descends to a postcard Greek seaside house with elements of Arts and Crafts architecture. Inside warm earth colors are punctuated with a riot of color from paintings, sculpture and fabric. Some among the amiable clientele play chess, read or sit at the handcrafted bar or on the deck (top sunset location).

Azul Wine Bar does actually serve food. Its just that its owner, Ioanna Thanasiou, is an accomplished artist as well as a chef and business owner. This was her grandparents beach cottage, so why not keep its atmosphere homelike; it makes you want to stay.

Azuls menu is eclectic certainly appealing to the athletic clientel that flock to the adventure tourism Kalymnos offers. Rock climbers, divers and sports fishermen tend to crave fresh, healthy ingredients served with creativity. Ioanna makes good use of the islands traditional location within the Spice routes of the Eastern Mediterranean when creating her menu. (The fresh, healthy and creative part iswell this is Greece).

A special dinner at Myrties Boutique Apartments

Although Myrties Boutique Apartments does not normally have food service since their apartments provide well-appointed kitchens, Mrs. Maria Sarafoglou wanted me to have a dish that traces its origins to ancient days Trahana.

Some culinary historians consider trahana to be the worlds oldest convenience food the Ramen Noodles of the ancient world. Trahana is made with semolina, wheat flour, bulgur or cracked wheat. Milk, buttermilk, or yogurt is mixed in to form thick dough. The mix is then broken into chunks, dried, and broken up again into pea size pieces before being dehydrated.

It sounds simple but the process, ifdone by hand, is lengthy so it was made in large quantities, carried in pouches on caravans and as a staple in households. Trahana comes in two types: sweet and sour. Sweet is made with whole milk, typically goats milk, and sour trahana is made with yogurt or buttermilk.

Trahana in various forms is still found almost everywhere from the Balkans to the Middle East and commercially produced (Agrozimi: makers of Greek traditional products). Another proof that Eastern Mediterranean/Mid Eastern cuisine knows no boundaries.

Its a virtual instant thickener to soups and stews. Maria Sarafoglou created what she said was a simple dish with ingredients on hand but featuring the trahana as rice would be used in a risotto.

Maria Sarafoglous Trahana with mussels in ouzo

In Greek cuisine it was a formula ripe for infinite variations. For Kalymnos Island cuisine it was a classic fusion of ancient, earthy, fresh from the land and the sea. Its food meant to be savored history et al.

When you go: Kalymnos in the Dodecanese Islands is served by both air and ferry service from Athens and its port, Piraeus. Schedules are seasonal so do check. It is usually possible to reach the Island year round through Kos Island by air or ferry and then Kalymnos by a short ferry ride.

Special Thanks: for facilitating my tour Kalymnos Association of Tourist Accommodation Xenias, Maria A. Sarafoglou, Fotini Tiliakou, Kalliopi Tsangari, Maria Helle Foy, Nikolaos Pelekanos, and Giannis Karamalis

Travel with Pen and Palate every month to Greece and the world in the Hellenic News of America.

Originally posted here:

Kalymnos Island cuisine begs to be savored - Hellenic News of America