Each British county has its own charms, but only one wears a crown. The Royal County of Berkshire, so titled since 1957, is home to the Queens favourite castle and, for many, thats enough of a reason to visit. But beyond Windsors fine pomp and pageantry, youll find a region full of surprises: riverside theatres, abundant museums, and villages with more Michelin stars than most cities. Its also home to the loveliest stretch of the Thames (according to us locals, at least), and a trove of fabulous hotels. From dinky townhouses to entire private islands, heres where to rest your head in style.
The best hotels in Berkshire are:
Drink the afternoon away at The Vineyard
(The Vineyard)
Neighbourhood: Newbury
There are 30,000 bottles of wine in this hotels cellar. Do you really need another reason to visit? Yes, the dcor is lavish and art-filled, and theres a huge pool overlooking the gardens, but youre really here for the inch-thick wine list and it doesnt disappoint. Many bottles are under 30, and the sommeliers are savvy yet un-snooty: describe your taste, and theyll dig out something spot-on. Maybe youll sip a zesty Japanese Koshu over lunch, a voluptuous Argentinian Malbec with dinner, or get elegantly sozzled on tastings? Ask nicely, and they might even let you look in the cellar
Price: Doubles from 225, room only
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This grand hotel will make you feel like a queen
(River Arts Club)
Neighbourhood: Maidenhead
From the outside, this Thames-side Victorian mansion looks grand and traditional but all is not as it seems. Inside, its a dazzling combo of original features and decade-hopping accessories, from antique Chinese furniture to modernist sculptures and bright Designers Guild wallpaper. Despite its bombastic looks, the atmosphere is refreshingly low-key with just 13 rooms, an honesty bar, and plenty of nooks to curl up with a book. Theres no restaurant, but nearby options sport a constellation of Michelin stars: among them, Michel Rouxs Waterside Inn, and Heston Blumenthals The Fat Duck.
Price: Doubles from 175, B&B
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The perfect spot to tuck into afternoon tea
(SungChauPhotography)
Neighbourhood: Reading
Its hard to believe that this glorious red-brick manor started life as a council building. Built in 1911, its all elegant cornices, lofty ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows a delight to work in, no doubt, but even better for play. Skip the minimalist House rooms, and book a sumptuous Roseate instead: with four-poster beds, velvet armchairs and original fireplaces, they ooze Edwardian opulence. The city centre is a 10-minute walk away, and the hotels Reading Room restaurant serves fine British classics and literary-inspired cocktails. My favourite? Oscar Wildes Enigma: a feisty muddle of rum, maraschino and lime.
Price: Doubles from 270, B&B
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Youll love this magical hotel almost as much as your kids will
(Legoland Castle Hotel)
Neighbourhood: Windsor
The surest way to win your childs affections? Booking a trip to LEGOLAND, of course. The Castle Hotel is nirvana for little ones, featuring a pirate-themed swimming pool, magicians roaming the restaurant, and supersized LEGO figures who talk! The family rooms, comprising bunk beds and a double, are themed around wizards and knights, with an in-room treasure hunt, LEGO goodies, and a bedtime story about a friendly dragon. While the kids hog the PlayStation 4, youll be glad of the Nespresso machine, quality linens and blackout curtains especially after an action-packed day at the theme park next door.
Price: 357 for a family room (sleeps four), B&B
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Relax and unwind at Cliveden House
(Cliveden House)
Neighbourhood: Taplow
The epicentre of one of British politics biggest disgraces (until recent years, perhaps), Cliveden is the glamorous mansion where, in 1961, Christine Keeler met John Profumo then Secretary of State for War sparking an affair that would threaten the very bedrock of parliament. But then, Cliveden has always raised eyebrows: murder, mistresses and fake deaths pepper its 350-year history. You can swim in the very pool where the Profumo Affair started, and sip Champagne where the glitterati partied without prying eyes. Of course, in surroundings as lascivious as this, it would be rude not to create your own scandal.
Price: Doubles from 495, B&B
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This townhouse is just a stones throw away from the sights
(Gilbeys Townhouse)
Neighbourhood: Eton
More of a bistro-with-bedrooms than a full-blown hotel, Gilbeys is a low key spot but its restaurant will knock your socks off. The menu is Modern British in style, and beloved of Berkshires foodies: think wild mushroom risotto, rosemary-crusted lamb rump, and a heavenly Eton Mess (naturally). But few realise that Gilbeys also has three rooms and a studio suite, tucked away at the top of its townhouse, featuring king size beds, crisp linens and enviable antiques aplenty. With both Windsor Castle and Eton College within a 10-minute walk, you couldnt be better placed for sightseeing or dinner.
Price: Doubles from 150, room only
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Take a high end trip at Castle Hotel
(Castle Hotel Windsor)
Neighbourhood: Windsor
The Castle Hotel Windsor has some seriously noble neighbours. From the bedrooms at the front, you can gaze out over the Queens favourite residence and the Changing of the Guards parade passes outside the restaurant, so grab a window table at breakfast. Its also a favourite among celebs and dignitaries: Sir Ian McKellan stayed here while playing Hamlet at Windsors theatre, while Sir Captain Tom stopped for afternoon tea after receiving his knighthood. But even for us ordinary folk, the Castle pulls out the stops: think slick service, comfortable rooms, and excellent locally sourced food and wines.
Price: Doubles from 154, B&B
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Shack up in this 40-room hotel for the full experience
(Monkey Island Estate)
Neighbourhood: Bray
Alas, there are no monkeys. But perhaps the promise of a river-view bed, floating boat spa and free Champagne (if you book direct) will make up for the lack of primates? On a private island in the Thames, this 40-room retreat feels deliciously cut off from the world, and is accessed only by footbridge, boat or helicopter. In this neighbourhood, millionaires mansions yield to wide, willow-grazed waters and Monkey Island is one of the grandest. It was originally built in the 18th century as a Dukes fishing retreat, and has hosted royals, artists, aristocrats and socialites ever since so youre in excellent company.
Price: Doubles from 275, room only
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(The Retreat)
Neighbourhood: Newbury
A reimagining of a country house hotel, The Retreat has everything you need for a spectacular mini break with absolutely no need to leave. As well as two restaurants, a tennis court, woodland walks and croquet lawn, theres a market-style courtyard featuring a wine shop, nail salon, and caf overlooking the grounds. It feels like a resort (in a good way), but the accommodation is anything but cookie-cutter: there are 55 rooms decked out in William Morris-style wallpaper, quirky heritage artworks and in the Signature Suites freestanding copper bathtubs. Just the spot for a glass of bubbly.
Price: Doubles from 180, B&B
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Best Berkshire hotels 2022: Where to stay for comfort and charm - The Independent
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