Earlier this summer, a slew of headlines showered doom and gloom on clothing rental schemes, proclaiming them "the worst green option," "worse for the planet than just throwing [clothing] away" and "no cure for fast fashion."
All this vitriol came in the wake of a Finnish report that compares the global warming potential of a pair of jeans under five ownership and end-of-life scenarios: traditional use and disposal; extended use; resale; recycle; and rental. Using life cycle assessments (LCAs), the study concluded that "sharing" or renting a pair of jeans produced the highest volume of carbon emissions about 5 kg more CO2 than simply throwing the jeans away.
If we take these headlines at face value, rental models should be a thing of the past rather than a model for the futurewith endless possibilities, as some coverage has suggested. But as with all things in the world of circularity, this story requires some context and a healthy dose of nuance so lets dive in.
The report uses LCA methodology, a process that evaluates the environmental impact of a product or service from cradle to grave by relying on numerous assumptions. As an example, the report assumes 200 wears before jeans are disposed of, that jeans are washed every 10 uses, and that purchasing two pairs of used jeans will displace the need for one newly manufactured pair. These assumptions are built from a specific scenario and setting, and a slight shift in these numbers could drastically alter the reports outcome. All that to say, the assumptions and their conclusions come with "uncertainty," a word the reports authors use no less than seven times.
As with all things in the world of circularity, this story requires some context and a healthy dose of nuance.
As critiques of LCAs have long pointed out, this methodology fails to account for human behavior and behavior change between scenarios. After all,a second-hand shopper or renter is likely to treat their garments differently from a traditional consumer potentiallyholding on to them longer, washing them at a different frequency or replacing them at a different rate. Indeed, LCAs have been criticized for their shortcomings, particularly when it comes to evaluating circular initiatives.
Of course, LCAs and their assumptions are critical to allow for an apples-to-apples comparison. "Only what gets measured gets managed," Ola Bkowska, a project manager at Circle Economys Circle Textile Program, shared with me over email. But LCAs offer "only part of the information [They are] not sufficient to assess all the benefits of clothes in the rental business model compared to business as usual."
Speaking of only part of the information,the report is quick to acknowledge that its focus is exclusively on carbon emissions and their "global warming potential" (GWP). As the report notes, "our focus on GWP impacts has left implications for other important sustainability dimensions such as water use, toxic chemicals and waste generation outside the scope of this study."
By not considering impact on water consumption, biodiversity and communities at large, this report offers only one piece of the sustainability puzzle.
"We urgently need more detailed research on the assumed and unexpected implications of diverse [circular economy] strategies," the report adds. Id argue such research is critical to understand rentals full scope of benefits and drawbacks before we throw this potentially impactful model under the bus.
Its important to note, the report raised some genuine red flags for rental. As with all business models, slapping a "circular" sticker on them does not inherently make them more sustainable.
Rental services particularly for clothingcan require more logistics, often including more shipping, packaging, cleaning or washing and, by association, carbon emissions than traditional linear consumption. "Circular business models are not climate positive by definition," Bkowska noted. Accordingly, they deserve our scrutiny before we call them green.
But given the narrow assumptions and limitations of this report, Im hesitant to brand rental schemes as unsustainable either. So what would it take to make rental the eco-friendly option? Here are three recommendations that could bring rental back from the environmental brink:
"In order to create a sustainable business model, you have to consider sustainability at every point in your product or services life cycle," Jay Reno, CEO of furniture rental company Feather, told me via email.
To start, this requires designing products with climate friendly materials and manufacturing as the report finds, more than half of the carbon emissions associated with a pair of jeans occur during manufacturing, no matter how they are used or sold. But the sustainable design lens should not stop there.
Reno added, "Many brands might consider sustainability at the beginning of the life cycle say, when a pair of pants is created But what really moves the needle for sustainability is considering what happens once those pants leave your warehouse." Considering how a product might wear and tear as well as their aesthetic appeal over time can lead to more durable, repairable and timeless design and products that last longer require less carbon, as the report points out.
Many brands might consider sustainability at the beginning of the life cycle. What really moves the needle for sustainability is considering what happens once those pants leave your warehouse.
Additionally, carefully designed rental services can require less washing and maintenance between users, or leverage low- or zero-emission transportation. As Bkowska added, "It will be very different if you pick up an item by bike from your local clothing library than if you ship it from a remote place. This is why the service design of a rental business model is of core importance to achieve a desired social and environmental impact."
Rather than simply offering a rental scheme, combining multiple circular solutions in one business model could unlock the most environmental savings. A rental service could save significant carbon, materials and waste by extending product and material life spans with durability, repair services, product resale and material recycling. As an example, Feather leverages durable and versatile design, refurbishment, recommerce, upcycling and donation partners to extend their products lifespan and reduce environmental impacts.
In fact, one of the reports oft-overlooked analysis explores the reduced carbon impact of rental models that leverage product life extension and more sustainable service design through low-carbon transportation. The results? The carbon footprints of these rental models drop below traditional linear consumption, making the take-make-waste model "the worst" option, yet again.
As recent reports and coverage continue to confirm, the challenge is that fashions current model is inherently unsustainable. No matter if products are rented, resold or simply consumed, we are producing too much stuff.
As the report itself outlines,"In the textile industry, massive over-production is a system-level problem that cannot be tackled only with the development of more efficient recycling options for end-of-use products." We need to shift the system and reduce "the total amount of products" available as well as the overconsumption this volume of goods encourages.
[Interested in learning more about the circular economy? Subscribe to our free Circularity Weekly newsletter.]
If rental services spur more linear consumption, they have failed their sustainability charge and are indeed "the worst option." But when designed right, they can lead to less production and evoke behavior change that encourages more thoughtful, reduced consumption. As Reno shared in a Circularity 21 panel, rental has the power to "transform humanitys relationship with material goods [to give somebody] a different relationship with their stuff"
Thats what rental models should be striving for and when thats achieved, I wont hang rental out to dry.
Original post:
Is rental really the worst? | Greenbiz - GreenBiz
- Choosing Regular Food to Extend Longevity - CounterPunch.org - CounterPunch - April 18th, 2024 [April 18th, 2024]
- "I love the club, I'm really happy here" - Manchester United star opens up on life at club amid contract extension uncertainty - Sportskeeda - March 31st, 2023 [March 31st, 2023]
- Life Extension review - 7 facts you should know [APRIL 2022] - February 5th, 2023 [February 5th, 2023]
- Biomedical Research & Longevity Society - Wikipedia - January 27th, 2023 [January 27th, 2023]
- NAD+ Cell Regenerator and Resveratrol Elite - Life Extension - December 26th, 2022 [December 26th, 2022]
- FLORASSIST GI with Phage Technology - Life Extension - December 12th, 2022 [December 12th, 2022]
- Magnesium Citrate 100 mg, 100 capsules - Life Extension - November 5th, 2022 [November 5th, 2022]
- AMPK Metabolic Activator, 30 tablets - Life Extension - November 5th, 2022 [November 5th, 2022]
- Germany nuclear plants life extension approved by Cabinet - DW (English) - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- Biohacking: What is it, types and hacks to try for beginners - Medical News Today - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- 'Biggest day of my life': Kevin Porter Jr., Rockets react to extension - Rockets Wire - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- Postharvest quality solution for tomatoes-on-the-vine - hortidaily.com - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- JZZ Technologies, Inc. and Subsidiary LION Development Group, Enter into JV Agreement with affiliate of Hospitality Development Group, Inc. of Florida... - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- 'I love the city': QB Zach Collaros inks 3-year contract extension to stay with Blue Bombers through 2025 - CBC.ca - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- MSU-led team studying expansion of controlled environment culinary herb production across US - Michigan State University - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- 60 seconds with...Wayne Dunn, Babcock International - Professional Engineering - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- Wind energy operators must address these 5 areas to exploit the full value of monitoring - Windpower Engineering - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- Extension shares tips for practicing fire safety in the fall - The Hartselle Enquirer - Hartselle Enquirer - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- FIRST Robotics Prepares to Extend Its Reach to More Vermont Students - Seven Days - October 19th, 2022 [October 19th, 2022]
- Plant Life Cycles - Penn State Extension - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- FDA Authorizes Shelf Life Extension for Certain Lots of Paxlovid - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- EDF considers extending life of two UK nuclear plants due to energy crisis - The Guardian - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- Rittenbach among Extension team professionals honored - Jamestown Sun | News, weather, sports from Jamestown North Dakota - The Jamestown Sun - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- What is the circular economy and why is it essential for real sustainability? - Schroders - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- 44 national and international NGOs call for renewal and expansion of truce in Yemen [EN/AR] - Yemen - ReliefWeb - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- University City Townhomes residents now have until end of the year to find new low-income housing - The Philadelphia Inquirer - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- New Eskom board: Business groups happy with mix of skills - News24 - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- Full circle on the farm: Penn State alum returns to help educate Pa. growers - Pennsylvania State University - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- Task Force: Blacks are owed hundreds of thousands - CalMatters - October 2nd, 2022 [October 2nd, 2022]
- ProLynx appoints Richard King as Chief Executive Officer and Chris Ehrlich as Board Director - GlobeNewswire - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Analysis: Behind Trump's media deal, a vote where only yes will do - Reuters - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Evusheld long-acting antibody combination approved in the EU for the treatment of COVID-19 | Antibodies | News Channels - PipelineReview.com - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Action Hampshire get behind Sustainable Future Fund to reduce waste in business - Hampshire Chronicle - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Living the dream - Farm Progress - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Teck and Agnico Eagle Announce Agreement on the San Nicols Copper-Zinc Project located in Zacatecas, Mexico - PR Newswire - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Most actively traded companies on the Toronto Stock Exchange - Winnipeg Free Press - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Giants Urged to Give Extension to 24-Year-Old Defender - Heavy.com - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Russias MiG-31 Fighter That Fired Hypersonic Missiles On Ukraine Conducted Drills In The Stratosphere - EurAsian Times - September 20th, 2022 [September 20th, 2022]
- Jaguar Mining Reports Confirmed Continuity of Mineralization at Pilar Gold Mine - Life of Mine Extension Drilling to Follow - Yahoo Finance - September 14th, 2022 [September 14th, 2022]
- Easy meals, life-saving knife skills part of West Texas Fair & Rodeo Spotlight Kitchen - Abilene Reporter-News - September 14th, 2022 [September 14th, 2022]
- Beyond Bulletproof: Why Billionaires Are Chasing Everlasting Health - Newsweek - September 14th, 2022 [September 14th, 2022]
- Did California Truly Extend the Life of Diablo Canyon? Only Time Will Tell. - JD Supra - September 14th, 2022 [September 14th, 2022]
- Youth Mental Health First Aid Trainings Offered This Fall - Iowa State University - September 14th, 2022 [September 14th, 2022]
- Finland to Extend Validity of Residence Permits for Ukrainian Refugees Under Temporary Protection - SchengenVisaInfo.com - SchengenVisaInfo.com - September 14th, 2022 [September 14th, 2022]
- Wildfire Smoke's Affect on Potato Crops Being Studied - University of Idaho - September 14th, 2022 [September 14th, 2022]
- National Weather Service Northern Indiana radar will be down beginning Monday for upgrades - WANE - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Renault Trucks Will Give New Life to Old Parts - Ward's Auto - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Stop the stigma and step in - Farm Progress - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Empire Wind and WCS Announce Extension of Historic Near Real-Time Acoustic Marine Monitoring Project In New York Bight - Business Wire - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Media Advisory: Chalk River Laboratories Officially Breaks Ground on One of the Largest Nuclear Research Facilities Ever Constructed in Canada -... - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- PFAS pilot study gets yet another extension, scope and cost of another project reduced - wausaupilotandreview.com - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Predators extend deal with Bally Sports South - Awful Announcing - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- WWYDW: Reactions to the Canucks' J.T. Miller extension - Canucks Army - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- NASA's Artemis rocket makers explain that it's a marathon and a sprint - The Register - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Food supply chains are susceptible to fraud and adulteration more than ever, warns Kerry - Food Ingredients First - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Reprieve for The White Lady as iconic food truck gets 12-month licence extension - Stuff - September 7th, 2022 [September 7th, 2022]
- Gypsy Moth Biology & Life Cycle - University of Illinois Extension - August 30th, 2022 [August 30th, 2022]
- AgriLife's Johanna Hicks and Team Honored at 2022 National Health Outreach Conference - frontporchnewstexas.com - August 30th, 2022 [August 30th, 2022]
- Harmony Gold to maintain dividends despite facing two years of heavy capital bills - Miningmx - August 30th, 2022 [August 30th, 2022]
- Malaysian, Thai companies ink MOU to explore cooperation in Mechanised Infantry Fighting Vehicle life extension programme - The Edge Markets MY - August 30th, 2022 [August 30th, 2022]
- Coveris previews new packaging solutions targeting enhanced performance and recyclability - Packaging Europe - August 30th, 2022 [August 30th, 2022]
- KPF and heatherwick studio to extend singapore airport as cluster of lush 'neighborhoods' - Designboom - August 30th, 2022 [August 30th, 2022]
- Understanding Tax Liens. Could the IRS seize your car? - finehomesandliving.com - August 30th, 2022 [August 30th, 2022]
- Extension of Legacy Trail in Tyler to continue - Tyler Morning Telegraph - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- KRUG: Extension learning opportunities around the corner - Hays Post - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- Half-Life 2 VR is coming, here's how you can get it - Win.gg - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- Transplant technology: United Therapeutics 3D-printing of human organs focused on every breath you take - Manchester Ink Link - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- Serena Williams Interview on Leaving Tennis and Her Legacy - TIME - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- Thousands of photos captured by everyday Australians reveal the secrets of our marine life as oceans warm - The Conversation - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- Empathy and Solidarity: On Alejandro Varela's The Town of Babylon - lareviewofbooks - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- How many people continue their stay in the UK or apply to stay permanently? - GOV.UK - August 29th, 2022 [August 29th, 2022]
- Anti-Aging Conference and Olympia Weekend Set for Back-to-Back Weekends in Vegas - Muscle & Fitness - August 15th, 2022 [August 15th, 2022]
- A son steps aboard the Eagle and into his father's world - Journal Inquirer - August 15th, 2022 [August 15th, 2022]
- Class to teach healthy living for those with chronic conditions - The Maryville Forum - August 15th, 2022 [August 15th, 2022]
- New application for disinfection of fresh-cut fruits by means ozone in the packaging - hortidaily.com - August 15th, 2022 [August 15th, 2022]
- Meatless Meats and Smokeless Smokes - Equities News - August 15th, 2022 [August 15th, 2022]
- Command & Control Success: Fireground Commander: Understanding the Impact - Firehouse - August 15th, 2022 [August 15th, 2022]
- Five Ways This Survey About Maine's Wellness is Absolutely Bogus - WJBQ - July 25th, 2022 [July 25th, 2022]
- Center for Advanced Innovation in Agriculture, Virginia Cooperative Extension help Virginia Tech showcase its land-grant mission at 2022 Virginia Ag... - July 25th, 2022 [July 25th, 2022]
- Anti-ageing tips: Here's how to rewind your biological clock - Hindustan Times - July 25th, 2022 [July 25th, 2022]