In the past, we restaurant critics rarely needed to check the weather forecast before heading out for a reservation. Severe blizzards sometimes made travel challenging, but in general neither snow nor rain nor gloom of night kept us from our appointed meals.
Everything is all messed up now, as you might have noticed. For one day last month it looked as if Kokomo, a new Caribbean restaurant in Brooklyn that I kept hearing about, was going to be shut down by a thunderstorm. That morning Id gotten a text that said, Due to the inclement weather, we will not be able to accommodate outdoor dining. Since this was the only kind of dining allowed, all reservations were being canceled.
In the afternoon, after reassessing the forecast, Kokomo texted again to ask if I still wanted the reservation; an awning was in place to keep the sidewalk tables dry. I answered yes.
So did a lot of other people, it turned out. The corner across from the Williamsburg waterfront where Kokomo has been serving since July was in a mild state of pandemonium. As the rain fell, gently at first, a single employee was hauling tables, chairs and patio umbrellas out to an exposed platform in the street. He was also in charge of the list. The only other server was barely keeping up with the diners who had already been seated.
Just when Id decided that slipping away quietly and coming back another night was the only humane response, the employee in charge of setting up furniture counted everybody who was waiting, apologized very kindly and promised to seat all of us quickly. Amazingly, he did. And then it started to pour, a real lock-the-windows monsoon. He looked straight at the sky, spread out his arms and started to laugh. Somebody started to clap, and soon everybody on the sidewalk and street was applauding. Forget the rain. The celebration was underway.
Every night is a celebration at Kokomo, which may be the pandemics best scene restaurant a social magnet for the age of social distancing. In a summer without nightclubs, it inspires people to dress up as if they were going to one. Forced to operate without its intimate, velvet-upholstered dining room, it simply moved the speakers and D.J. table outside, and made a good stretch of North 10th Street into an outdoor lounge. (Kokomo is in one of the neighborhoods where Mayor Bill de Blasio wanted to rescind indoor dining, a notion that Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo eighty-sixed on Monday.)
In some ways, Kokomo had a head start on the pool-party approach that restaurants across the city have adopted since outdoor dining began. It opened with a cocktail menu that was already full of tall, colorful drinks, some of them drawn from the tiki canon (like the nutmeg-dusted Painkiller) and all of them appropriate for sipping through a straw with a beach towel draped around your neck.
And, of course, it has a menu that looks to the Caribbean. This may put you in mind of Negril, or it may make you think of central Brooklyn and southeast Queens. Neither of these reference points would be wrong; Kokomos owners, Ria and Kevol Graham, come from West Indian families, were married in Grand Cayman and live in Canarsie.
If you are one of those people who like to order the dish that is most likely to fall on its face, you are going to notice the Rasta pasta flatbread right away. Penne coated in the Jamaican equivalent of Alfredo sauce cannot possibly be a great pizza topping, you think, with or without peppers. It is not a dainty appetizer; if you eat a whole one your stomach will know it. But it is very good, as is the flatbread dotted with bits of braised oxtail among caramelized onions and sweet tomato confit.
If Kokomo can put Jamaican pasta on pizza and make it work, you think, it can do anything. And you may be on to something. The substantial line of vegan main courses is conceived with flavor in mind, like the whole roasted cauliflower in a cashew sauce flecked with allspice and other seasonings.
Even if you think most of jerk chickens flavor should come from its marinade and not its sauce, you will probably agree that Kokomos sauce does its job very effectively. You might want a little more punch in the ceviche, but then the little islands of Peruvian-style sweet potato pure win you over. The vinegar and Scotch bonnet sauce you throw over the snapper escovitch is not the brightest and sharpest youve ever had, but its got the right idea.
The first time I ate at Kokomo, the chef was Christian Aranibar. When I went back a couple of weeks later, he was gone and Mitchel Bonhomme had been promoted to replace him. If the cooking changed, I didnt notice.
What I did notice was that the platform in the street where the heroic server had stood in the rain was now covered with a corrugated roof. This is probably all right, but under it were plexiglass walls on at least two sides that threatened to turn this outdoor space into an actual room. And this was where the restaurant seated its biggest groups.
This leads to a caveat about Kokomo only one caveat, but it is the size of Miami. Even when my meals there were going well, I had the sense that things could fall apart at any minute. The scene at the host stand that first night, for instance, could easily have ended with a mass exodus. (As it was, I saw one person just give up, apparently after calling in a takeout order and failing to extract it from the kitchen in a timely fashion.) Some restaurants flirt with chaos. Kokomo is dating it.
Original post:
Caribbean Food, All Dressed Up to Party at Kokomo in Brooklyn - The New York Times
- New satellite imagery reveals expanse of oil spill in Caribbean - Fox Weather - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Oil spill off Trinidad and Tobago blackens Caribbean beaches - The Washington Post - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Passenger dies aboard 9-month Royal Caribbean cruise around the world - NBC News - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Group Signs with Chantiers For Next Oasis Class Ship - Cruise Industry News - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Perfect Day at CocoCay new adult-only area: review - Business Insider - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Tourists Warned To Protect Their Passports As Thefts In The Mexican Caribbean On The Rise - The Cancun Sun - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Antigua: Elderly man charged with second homicide of 2024 | Loop Caribbean News - Loop News Caribbean - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- With Jamaica and Bahamas under travel advisories, which Caribbean islands are safe to book your next vacation? - SILive.com - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Gives Unprecedented Choice on Ultimate World Cruise - Cruise Hive - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Disney's Extensive Pirates of the Caribbean Change Officially Closes Attraction - Inside the Magic - Inside the Magic - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean's new Icon of the Seas: What it's like to stay on the largest cruise ship in the world - CNA: Breaking News, Singapore News, World and... - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- At Grenada's Spice Island Beach Resort, the Art of the Luxury All-Inclusive - Caribbean Journal - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Director Malaury Eloi-Paisley on Her Debut Documentary 'L'Homme Vertige,' and the Unvarnished Reality of ... - Yahoo Entertainment - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- See Royal Caribbean's newest giant cruise ship, Utopia of the Seas - Business Insider - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Preparing for Development of the Blue Economy in the U.S. Caribbean - NOAA Fisheries - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Latin America & The Caribbean Weekly Situation Update as of 16 February 2024 - Haiti - ReliefWeb - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Europe and Latin America & the Caribbean step up cooperation on cybersecurity - EEAS - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Confirms 9-Month Cruise Will Not Go Through Red Sea and Suez Canal Due to Middle East Unrest - PEOPLE - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Where is Death in Paradise set? The Caribbean island behind the BBC show - The Independent - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Trinidad and Tobago: overturned barge leaks oil into Caribbean Sea video report - The Guardian - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- The next five venues for the Caribbean Series confirmed - AS USA - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Firing February in the Caribbean - Surfline.com Surf News - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- 5 Best Luxury Resorts in the Caribbean for Adults - Insider Monkey - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean orders new ship weeks after Icon of the Seas launch - Ship Technology - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Suspect charged in fatal stabbing of woman in St Vincent | Loop Caribbean News - Loop News Caribbean - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Inside the Issue: Questlove on the Cover, Caribbean Escapes, and More - Business Traveler USA - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Unveils 2025-26 Northeast, Caribbean Sailings - Cruise Industry News - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- How to follow the 2024 RORC Caribbean 600 - RORC Caribbean 600 - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Oil Spill off the Coast of Trinidad and Tobago Drifts Into Caribbean, Threatening Marine Life and Coral Reefs - EcoWatch - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- OPCW advanced chemical response capability training for Latin ... - Organisation for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- These 3 Caribbean Destinations Are Some of the Most Popular (and ... - Travel + Leisure - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Latin America & The Caribbean Weekly Situation Update (As of 20 ... - ReliefWeb - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Caribbean Cup SF on The Rise: Franklin Singodikromo - Concacaf - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Former Royal Caribbean Ship to Be Retired and Scrapped - Cruise Hive - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- What's it Like to Sail on Explora I in the Caribbean? - Cruise Critic - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- African, Caribbean Nations Agree To Pursue Reparations For Slavery - BET - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- IDB Invest Mobilizes the Largest Renewable Energy Financing in ... - BNamericas English - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- OPCW forum in Barbados enhances national implementation of the ... - Organisation for the Prohibition of Chemical Weapons - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Anderson targets improvement during tenure as regional VP of ... - sportsmax.tv - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Jervon Sands chosen as Rhodes Scholar for Commonwealth ... - The Washington Informer - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- The Commonwealth should establish a Reparations and Aid Fund ... - Insidethegames.biz - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Royal Caribbean passenger dies after excursion boat sinks on way to private island in Bahamas - NBC 6 South Florida - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Regional paint producers want increased tariffs on imported ... - Loop News Caribbean - November 22nd, 2023 [November 22nd, 2023]
- Former Mets Coming to Citi Field for Titans of the Caribbean Series - metsmerizedonline.com - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- LIONS, MERMAIDS AND PIRATES, OH MY! ROYAL CARIBBEAN'S ICON OF THE SEAS TO DEBUT SHOW ... - Royal Caribbean Press Center - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- It's not your imagination - Royal Caribbean is sending fewer ships to Europe - Royal Caribbean Blog - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- I'm going on Royal Caribbean's first world cruise for 274 nights: Why I booked and what I'm expecting - Royal Caribbean Blog - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- The 15 Best Spa Resorts in the Caribbean - Caribbean Journal - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- British Virgin Islands to review its minimum wage | Loop Caribbean News - Loop News Caribbean - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- Royal Caribbean Unveils Full-Scale Shows for Icon of the Seas - Cruise Hive - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- Opportunities for Latin American and Caribbean youth facing the ... - World Bank - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- Celebrity Cruises Has a New Ship Heading for the Caribbean - Caribbean Journal - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- Frogs were Florida's first-known vertebrates from the Caribbean - University of Florida - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- LatAm, Caribbean progress in fighting hunger, though COVID-19 ... - Reuters - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- Largest Princess ship ever ported in Texas launches first Caribbean ... - CultureMap Dallas - November 10th, 2023 [November 10th, 2023]
- Why You Should Visit This Underrated Caribbean Destination Right Now - Travel Off Path - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- System in Caribbean to move inland over Central America - South Florida Sun Sentinel - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Webinar: Launch, Grow, and Accelerate Your Sales in the ... - news.delaware.gov - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Insurance in the Caribbean islands what's in the sector's future? - Insurance Business - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Why the Cayman Islands Is a Caribbean Culinary Capital - Caribbean Journal - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Integration Sector: Background Notes - Caribbean October 2023 ... - ReliefWeb - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Coral Seeding - Restoring Coral Reefs in the Caribbean - InfoBonaire.com - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- USAID Announces $25 Million to Address the Challenges of ... - USAID - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- EXPLORA I arrives in Miami for maiden call ahead of Caribbean ... - PAX News - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- A $7000 Suite on Royal Caribbean's Allure of the Seas Cruise - Royal Caribbean Blog - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- These Are The Top 3 Fastest Growing Destinations In The Mexican ... - Travel Off Path - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Central America and Caribbean Price Bulletin, October 2023 ... - ReliefWeb - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Digital Financial Inclusion: Insights and Opportunities from the ... - ReliefWeb - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Caribbean tropical rainstorm to bring dangerous conditions to Central America - AOL - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Why The Mexican Caribbean Is The Best Digital Nomad Hotspot In ... - The Cancun Sun - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Curry Lobster With Potato Caribbean Life - Caribbean Life - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Caribbean Regional Consultation Meeting on Integrated Financing ... - UNEP - November 6th, 2023 [November 6th, 2023]
- Royal Caribbean's most expensive specialty restaurant ever will take 3 hours and cost $200 per person - Royal Caribbean Blog - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]
- Tropical storms expected to land in Caribbean, Texas as forecasters watch 3 other systems - South Florida Sun Sentinel - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]
- New Royal Caribbean Survey Shows the Spanish On Top - Cruise Hive - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]
- Tropical Storm Franklin to bring possible life-threatening flooding to Caribbean - Yahoo News - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]
- 10 Pirates Of The Caribbean Characters Who Need To Return In POTC 6 - Screen Rant - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]
- Pirates Of The Caribbean Turned 20 This Year, And One Star Looked Back At Filming With Johnny Depp - CinemaBlend - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]
- Latin America & The Caribbean Weekly Situation Update (As of 21 August 2023) - Haiti - ReliefWeb - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]
- New York honors Caribbean icon: Harry Belafonte receives key to the city posthumously - caribbeannationalweekly.com - August 24th, 2023 [August 24th, 2023]