Monthly Archives: October 2019

Sustainable is a label we see splashed everywhere, from denim jeans and organic cosmetics to investments and software. Once a buzzkill of a buzzword to luxury travellers, hearing that a hotel was eco suggested there might be some scrimping on style and comfort. Thankfully, a new generation of switched-on hoteliers and inspired hospitality brands are making it sexy to be more responsible. Its time to reclassify what luxury means, when it comes to where we rest our heads on a feel-good holiday

Opulent and over-the-top are old hat when it comes to adventuring. Better to splash out on once-in-a-lifetime vacations that have a positive social and environmental impact. All the better if its a ger in the Gobi Desertthats the name for these traditional round yurts covered with felt. This lodge is one for true nomads, not those of the digital variety, as its totally off-grid. It has special practices in place to make the most of the little water it has. Its also in cahoots with scientific research and wildlife monitoring programmes to give back to the Gobi. (Website; doubles from MNT21,50,000 or Rs58,200)

Its rare desert island retreats manage to be so ridiculously spoiling and sybaritic and yet so sensitive to sustainability. No wonder the A-listers love it. It may be the panoramas of the lagoon here, northeast of Tahiti, that are likely to have you swooning, but the scientific smarts of the hotels air-conditioning system are also seductive. At this paradise private-island resort, the 35 carbon-neutral beachfront villas flaunt The Brandos own seawater-cooled inventionpowered by sun rays and coconut oil, SWAC is their cunning AC system. (Website; doubles from XPF4,42,000 or Rs2,93,970 for two nights)

Biodiversity is the siren call of this remarkable ecolodge. Not just a pretty 500-hectare property, its looks and cuisine entice Cape Towns cognoscenti to dine herethough we must underline that the sustainability dashboard of this Long Run member matches function to form and flavour in a truly ingenious way. Its supply chain is carefully monitored and kept to a 50-km radius; free-range piggies on its farm snaffle up organic kitchen waste; and under the lodges Growing the Future programme, fruit and veggies are bought directly from local women. (Website; doubles from ZAR11,500 or Rs55,000)

Smell fragrances free of chemicals; taste organic flavours lovingly cultivated by hand; touch furnishings crafted by artisans, not from a factory. Admire the star-filled skies above from bed through retractable roofs or from your over-the-water swing seat. Then salute the waste and water-filtration initiatives behind the scenes that ensure this is pure guilt-free luxury. Sonu Shivdasanis three barefoot-luxury resorts win awards for their architecture and design, unrivalled guest experiences as well as all that they do to preserve their Maldivian and Thai environments. (Website; doubles from MVR52,500 or Rs2,46,000)

Its taken years to get this Georgian manor house ready for visitors, but it was worth the wait. The interiors are perfection, and the gardens are a lesson in long-sighted conservation. Almost every morsel in either of the refined dining rooms here is sourced from its biodynamic farm. What makes this estate so marvellous is its reverence for nature and the fact that its media-shy billionaire owner never scrimps on the back-of-house eco-activity. The biomass, advanced permaculture system, aerobic digester and thousands of litres of water sourced from their own borehole attest to this. (Website; doubles from 400 or Rs35,000)

This ruler-straight white rectangle cuts a strong silhouette on the edge of Canadas easternmost shoreline. Jutting over the Atlantic coast, with 29 rooms and five art studios, the inn is in fact a change-making social enterprise. Its build had everything as locally sourced as possible. Finding that the only nails that suited its needs were from China, it made its own. The steel frame of the wooden-clad construction is insulated to the max; rainwater is collected for the toilets; and wood-fired boilers and solar panels power the hot water and underfloor heating. (Website; doubles from CAD2,000 or Rs1,10,000)

The 26-room, solar-powered property lies in the south-western edge of the mountainous Dana Biosphere Reserve in Wadi Feynan. A true ecolodge, its design riffs on the caravanserais of the Middle Easts ancient trading days. Sip mint tea with Bedouin people, or shadow a shepherd for the day. A number of hotels promise authentic experiences, but few deliver them with such integrity. Sweeping rooftop views of the desert dont come as dramatic as in this former copper-mining valley. Theres no booze for sundowners, but guests can bring their own. As the fridges run on solar power, it has limited supply and forgoes serving meat. (Website; doubles from JOD145 or Rs15,000)

From manta rays to a kaleidoscopic array of corals, rare underwater species make these islands as compelling as can be for thrill-seeking divers and wildlife adventurers. This archipelago seems remote, but the 20 overwater villas fashioned from driftwood and fallen branches make the journey worth it. The resort raised some US$200,000 in 2018 through donations from guests and working with private businesses and like-minded partners from the scuba- diving industry. The funds went towards Misools work to protect the marine environment and communities of Raja Ampat. (Website; doubles from IDR22,75,000 or Rs12,000)

Get intimate with nature at any of the 10 thatched, stand-alone cabins in this untamed jungle near Gal Oya National Park. The luxury here is that your stay doesnt just insist you switch off (theres no wifi or cell phone reception)time here ensures you disconnect and just enjoy being in Sri Lankas wilderness. Leaving an especially good taste is the fact that every meal is made from just-plucked ingredients grown within grasp. Take hikes up Monkey Mountain and boat safaris along the Senanayake Samudra reservoir, or meet members of the Vedda tribe before their original way of life disappears. (Website; doubles from LKR45,500 or Rs19,000)

This breezy, open-to-the-elements, bamboo resort close to Singapore in the South China Sea is as sexy as it is environmentally conscious. On this adults-only island lodge, whisper sweet nothings to each other as you overlook jungle and ocean from your private poolthe only audience you are likely to have is a pair of hornbills. Its but a short stumble to the restaurant by the waters edge where the menu showcases ingredients from the retreats own farm. Plus you know that a percentage of your room rate is going towards The Island Foundations community-based projects that support education, healthcare and ethical practices. (Website; doubles from IDR48,50,000 or Rs25,000)

When architect Nick Troubetzkoy first conjured up this hotel in 2007, he probably didnt shout about having sustainable in his vernacular. After remodelling Anse Chastanet in St Lucia into an eco resort in the 1970s, amid 600 acres of nature overlooking the Caribbean, it was natural to take his new build to the next level. The visionary, enthralled by St Lucias landscapes and the warmth of its people, dispensed with as many walls, windows and doors as possible when creating his stay. Ruby, emerald, amber and turquoise tiling gives each room its own identity, and walkways lend a futuristic feel. (Website; doubles from XCD3,150 or Rs85,000)

Sister to Lake Gardas chi-chi spa retreat, this new stay is just outside Pinzolos Madonna di Campiglio ski resort. Its impressive to see bio-architecture exist in such harmony with the wooded mountain landscape. As appealing in summer as in the snowy season, hiking, biking and climbing make five-star Lefay Dolomiti a year-round wellness destination. Its rare to be able to give the assurance that advanced spa, detox and well-being programmesfrom osteopathy to Ayurvedaare not just good for you but also the wider world, but having hosts so committed to using renewable energy sources makes that possible. (Website; doubles from 400 or Rs32,000)

Heaven-sent for Instagram, this rustic resort feels like an honourable tribute to its coastal environment. From the tile-roofed casitas to thatched suites and tree houses, you can sense it has sourced all materials from within arms reach. On the Pacific Coast of Mexico, its set in 200 wildlife-rich acres spanning an Aztec archaeological site, a turtle sanctuary as well as a forest and mangrove ecosystem. Well-being is considered not just in terms of the planet as a whole but for you as an individual, thanks to nutritious, organic, veg-heavy dining and yoga and meditation classes. (Website; doubles from MXN5,500 or Rs20,000)

City hotels usually struggle to hold their heads up high when it comes to bragging about eco creds. But this glossy new chain does lots to earn its swagger. Helping them fly that green flag by Brooklyn Bridge Park is a 25ft living wall of figs and ferns in the lobby, reclaimed materials that dominate the interiors and wind-powered electricity. Touches such as an in-room triple-filtered drinking water tap and wittily labelled wooden amenities will woo suckers for sustainability, but the East River views and poster-perfect panoramas of that iconic iron bridgeparticularly from the pool-enhanced 10th-floor rooftophas even the least eco-conscious racing to stay. (Website. com; doubles from US$399 or Rs29,000)

A lot goes into making its six detached ocean-view villas, spa and restaurant kind to both people and place. Since teak is fast-growing and doesnt require wood lacquer or chemicals, it was the preferred building material. The hotel eschewed plastic since the start, always hired locally and supports a number of micro businesses from the area. Its greenhouse provides organic micro greens, kale, peppers, basil and mint and operates the Japanese Takakura composting system. It also donates to an NGO that helped a school in Uvita with new classrooms, teaching material and supplies. (Website; doubles from CRC4,00,000 or Rs50,000)

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The sexiest ecolodges around the world right now - Cond Nast Traveller India - The Last Word in Travel

Whether you want to go island hopping or just want a relaxing holiday, these are the best Greek islands for type of trip

Island hopping in Greece is one of the most popular ways to see this European nation, but there are so many to choose from its hard to know where to start. Weve done most of the hard work for you, rounding up the best Greek islands for holidays and island hopping.

Best Greek Island for the whole family

Crete has mass appeal. Its got everything you could want from a Greek island holiday: stunning beaches, excellent resorts, incredible scenery, bucolic villages and a long, fascinating history. Its also the countrys largest island, so theres plenty to keep you occupied if beach bumming isnt your bag.

Active types can hike along canyons, cycling among orchards, kayak on the ocean or simply snorkel in the warm Mediterranean Sea. While history buffs will love the ruins of the Palace of Knossos and the Heraklion Archaeological Museum.

Beach-wise, theres plenty of space to lay down your towel on the islands vast coastline. Beeline for Elafonisi to see pink-tinged sand, Mtala for romance come dusk and Frangokstello for fine sand.

How to get to/from Crete? There are direct flights from most major UK airport to Cretes three airports in Heraklion, Chania and the smaller Sitia. Heraklion and Sitia also have ferry ports, which connect to Santorini, Milos, Kasos and Rhodes.

Where to stay in Crete? There are plenty of hotels and holiday resorts in Crete for all budgets. For something sophisticated try Sensimar Elounda Village Resort & Spa by Aquila, which offers all-inclusive rates and high-end luxury. A more affordable option is Arminda Hotel & Spa a great option for families.

Best Greek island for wild parties & serene village life

With typical Cycladic scenery think dusty hills peppered with pretty whitewashed villages Ios is easy on the eyes. Its also well known for its wild party scene, though, so be prepared for late nights if you go out on the town. But you dont have get into the party mood if something more serene is your scene.

We love Ios for its small village vibes. The islands capital, Chora, is a rival to neighbouring Santorinis scenery whitewashed houses with touches of blue tumbledown a steep hill to a pretty harbour overlooking the Aegean. And it doesnt even have half the crowds, either. There are gorgeous, untouched beaches and majestic seaside churches, as well as the tomb where world-famous poet, Homer, was buried.

Book it: We love Riviera Travels Greek island-hopping cruise which tours the blissful Ionian islands over eight days from 1,499. Find out more information here.

How to get to/from Ios? Fly to Santorini and take a two-hour ferry, or into Athens and take the ferry (runs 4-5 times per week; takes 4-8 hours) from the citys main port, Piraeus. Ferries connect Ios to the likes of Naxos, Anafi, Paros, Milos and Mykonos.

Where to stay in Ios? Small and stylish with a spectacular seaview location, we love Liostasi Hotel & Suites. Rooms are small but come with balconies and the pool overlooks the Aegean Sea. The absolute best accommodation on the island, though, has to be Calilo: think gorgeous marble interiors, a variety of serene outdoor pools, a private beach and a leafy estate with more than 41,000 trees to find shade under. Stay at Calilo for more than 5 days and youll get discounted helicopter transfers, too.

Best Greek island forIntriguing architecture

With resorts and beaches aplenty, Corfu is a crowd-pleaser and its easy to reach, too. But one of the unexpected highlights of this island is exploring the unique architecture throughout its towns. With Venetian, French and British influence behind it, there are some fascinating fortresses, French-style arcades and a few grand palaces worthy of Kings and Queens.

Explore the islands medieval capital Corfu Old Town is a warren of alleyways filled with gift shops and cafes. Or head up to Old Peritha, an ancient mountain village that was abandoned by its residents in the 1960s and is now a gorgeous hideaway with views out to the Ionian islands and neighbouring Albania.

Speaking of Albania, its just a 20 euro ferry ride away, so make your island hopping holiday a border hopping one too with a trip across the sea to this intriguing, former communist country.

How to get to/from Corfu? There are regular direct flights from most major UK airports to Corfu. Ferries also run to and from the Greek mainland, Saranda in Albania, and Bari and Venice in Italy.

Where to stay in Corfu? If you want to soak in the romantic, secluded atmosphere of Old Peritha, stay at the Merchants House a glorious little B&B filled with antiques, run by a kind couple who source as much as possibly locally. For a five-star resort, you cant go wrong with Grecotels Corfu Imperial, which has five private beaches, a large outdoor pool and plenty of dining options.

Best Greek Island for Feeling rich & famous

Hydra has long been a location the well-heeled with celebrity status flock to Leonard Cohen bought a mansion here, and the island found fame thanks to the Michael Cacoyannis film A Girl in Black. And today its still just as popular with the A-listers, having attracted the likes of Eric Clapton and even The Rolling Stones too.

But its not all glitz and glam theres an understated luxury to this island, with its nearly car-free roads and old, crumbling buildings. Walkers will love the island outside of the hottest summer months local maps are available but the coastal path is easy enough to follow without. There are a few old mansions on the island that have now been turned into museums Lazaros Koundouriotis is one of the best, with gorgeous interiors and intriguing objects on display from the islands maritime heyday. Beaches arent spectacular here, but good stretches can be found at pebbly Limniniza and shingle Avlki.

More like this: The best family holiday resorts in Europe according to mums

How to get to/from Hydra? Ferries connect Hydra to the mainland from the port at Piraeus. Boats also run between Hydra and the surrounding islands, including Sptses for day trips.

Where to stay in Hydra? We love the characterful Orloff Boutique Hotel, with its antique furniture and cosy outdoor seating, or the biggest four-star hotel on the island, Bratsera. Theres a pool, cosy bedrooms and glorious mountain views.

Best Greek Island for A great all-rounder

Rhodes has many virtues a beautiful old town, a cosmopolitan resort, stunning sandy beaches and ancient history to boot. This makes it a perfect all-rounder for family holidays or romantic couples getaways.

Active types will love hiking through the Valley of the Butterflies, where thousands of the creatures flit about, attracted to the nectar secreted by the trees. Those seeking retail therapy should head to the Old Town for boutiques and Mandraki for big-name stores, and beach bums will be spoilt for choice by the various stretches of sand that edge this gorgeous isle. Kiotari and smaller Agathi are the best in our books.

Big, brash, late-night parties can be found in Faliraki if that takes your fancy, and quieter, more laid-back life can be experienced in one of the islands may villages such as Apollona or Lardos. Dont forget to taste some local wine, too Rhodes was once one of the largest wine merchants in the Med.

How to get to/from Rhodes? Ryanair fly direct to Rhodes from Stanstead. Ferries connect Rhodes to the mainland from Piraeus 12 times a week, and there are regular boats to the likes of Syros, Tilos, Thira, Kos, Naxos and more.

Where to stay in Rhodes? Family fun can be found at Amathus Beach Hotel, which has four pools, a private beach and big kids pool too. Theres a playground, tennis court, ping pong table and oversized chess, too. For a romantic couples escape, try the adults-only Boutique 5 Hotel & Spa, where sea views and direct beach access make for a dreamy escape.

Best Greek Island for Foodies & philanthropists

Famous for its olive trees and excellent vines, Lesvos has been a foodie hub for centuries. The island is also responsible half of Greeces ouzo output, so anyone with a taste for boozy aniseed will love this little escape.

There are dreamy seaside resorts, beautiful little fishing villages and quaint hilltop towns well worth exploring. But theres a darker side to the island that all visitors should know about. People fleeing conflict from all over the world have come here in search of asylum and better lives, and camps are set up across the island to handle the processing of thousands of refugees.

While tourism to Lesvos has seen a decline in recent years due to the refugee crisis, with hundreds of people landing on its shores daily, the island still needs visitors and you can help the local economy just by going there. If you want to go one step further and make a small difference in the migrant camps, bring some supplies and connect with local volunteer distributors, Attika, who can send them out to those in need.

How to get to/from Lesvos? Ferries run from Piraeus and Kavala in the north on mainland Greece, and there are boat connections betwee the island and Chios, Lemnos, Samos, and Ikaria.

Where to stay in Lesvos? Get your own villa with a private pool at A Luxury Villas, or book into Heliotrope Hotels for sea views, a good-sized pool and beach access.

Best Greek Island for An off-the-beaten-track adventure

Closer to Turkey than to mainland Greece, Chios is a pretty off-the-beaten-track adventure. Head to Kambos, once home to the islands leaders, to see stately mansions of a byegone era, and visit the mastic villages, a collection of 20 settlements where the trees shed the tears of Chios little mastic crystals every August, creating peculiar white, snow-like patterns on the ground.

Anavatos, an abandoned medieval village, is an intriguing and atmospheric day trip, and foodies will love the abundance of citrus fruit. Fresh orange juice in the morning has never tasted so good

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How to get to/from Chios? Connect to a flight to Chios from Athens or Thessaloniki airports on the mainland, or take a ferry from Piraeus or Lavrio. There are also boat connections to nearby Lesvos, Efstratios, Samos, Ikaria and Tsesme in Turkey.

Where to stay in Chios? Stay in Chios town (Chora) for the best restaurants and bars we love Agora Residence, a collection of serviced apartments and studios inside a renovated 19th-century mansion. For the quiet life, head to Erytha Hotel & Resort where youll get endless sea views and simple but cleanly decorated rooms.

Best Greek Island for Brilliant beaches

Naxos has certainly got one of the finest beaches of all the Greek islands. The entire southwest coast forms one long beach, with numerous resorts and hotels on its shores for a spectacular seaside escape.

In the Kstro area of the main town and youll find plenty to keep you busy for a week, such as the ancient Apollo Temple and an archaeological museum, alongside hopping between coves and beaches. Local food is a highlight here, too, with the small potatoes grown across the island a total hit, alongside all manner of island-produced cheeses.

How to get to/from Naxos? There are regular flights from Athens to Naxos, and BA and easyJet fly to nearby Mykonos which connects via ferry. There are also ferries from Piraeus, Crete and most of the other Cycladic islands too.

Where to stay in Naxos? In Naxos town, we love Nissaki Beach Hotel which has great beach access and bright and breezy decor. Beachfront villas further down the coast are equally lovely at Salinus Naxian.

Best Greek Island for Traditional village life

Famed for its hedonistic nightlife, Mykonos is more than just superclubs and hangovers. There are beautiful beaches and the buzzy little capital, Hora, but its interior is where youll find serene peace and quiet.

Ano Mera is a gorgeous little town in the centre of the island, with whitewashed houses, a taverna-filled main square and the Tourliani Monastery founded in 1537, its a glorious old domed church with a collection of treasures inside.

How to get to/from Mykonos? Direct flights from Athens take just 35 minutes and ferries go from Piraeus and Rafina ports near the city. There are connections islands such as Ios, Crete, Paros, Thira and Tinos.

Where to stay in Mykonos? Hilltop bliss can be found at Amallini Suites near Ano Mera, where theres a pool, beautiful original exposed brick interiors and glorious views out to the ocean. Elia Mykonos Resort by the Sea is a good bet for direct beach access and four-star service.

Best Greek Island for Instagram-worthy views

Better known as Shipwreck Island and Zante, Zakynthos has featured on many a tourist brochure thanks to its enormous, rusting shipwreck on Navagio beach. Theres a viewpoint north of the beach atop precipitous cliffs, looking down on the enormous crumbling hull of the MV Panagiotis, which ran aground in 1980 after reportedly trying to smuggle in tobacco and other illegal products.

Elsewhere on Zakynthos, there are more spectacular views of azure oceans and white sandy beaches. Theres water so clear youll be able to see toes right on the bottom of the ocean floor, and even sulphur springs if you know where to look (tip: head to Xigia beach).

How to get to/from Zakynthos (Zante)? easyJet and Jet2 fly to Zakynthos regularly throughout the spring and summer seasons. Theres also year-round flights from Athens. Ferries travel between most of the Ionian islands, as well as the mainland ports of Patras and Kyllini.

Where to stay on Zakynthos (Zante)? For adults-only fun, book into Lesante Blu, set in a rural spot near the resort town of Tragaki. The pool overlooks the ocean and many rooms have lovely sea views. The food is sensational, too. Diana Palace Hotel has two pools, unusual contemporary decor and is a hit with guests.

Best Greek Island for A breath of fresh air

This little bat-shaped isle in the Dodecanese is tiny. There are fewer than 1,500 residents and it has just two towns to explore. On the northern half of the island youll find the tiny settlement of Analipsi, where there are laid-back beach bars serving fresh juices in the morning and cocktails by night, and beachfront restaurants make for romantic evenings under the stars.

The southern side of the island, Astypalea is the main hub, welcoming ferries from nearby islands and with plenty of tavernas and hotels. Theres an archaeological museum and the ruins of a hilltop castle overlooking the ocean, but the absolute best thing about this island is that its almost entirely smoke-free. Astypalea has become the worlds first Smoke-Free Culture island, meaning the air is extra fresh and youll never need to worry about second-hand smoke.

How to get to/from Astypalea? SkyExpress run flights to Astypalea from Athens, Rhodes, Kos, Santorini and more, and ferries connect the island to Athens main port Piraeus, as well as Kos, Rhodes, Tilos and Symi.

Where to stay on Astypalea? Maltezana Beach Hotel is, as you might expect, right on the beach on the northern half of the island. Theres a great pool and good food in the homely restaurant. The superb Pylaia Boutique Hotel & Spa is the top pick on the south side of the island, tucked away among the hills on the coast, with sea views, minimalist decor and an excellent spa.

Best Greek Island for Sensational views

Santorini really needs no introduction. Weve all seen those stunning shots of whitewashed houses tumbling down towards the rich-blue ocean, with classic Greek Orthodox church domes in view. Santorini is synonymous with luxury, but theres much more to this popular island than Instagrammable views and stunning sunsets.

We love Pyrgos Village, the islands former capital which is now a sleepy little settlement away from the hustle and bustle of Fira and Oia, with cute little tavernas for fresh-fish lunches and a spot of afternoon ouzo. Also dont miss Akrotiri, another little village hidden away on the south coast with a striking red beach backed by ochre-coloured cliffs.

How to get to Santorini? easyJet run non-stop flights to Santorini year-round and British Airways have seasonal flights throughout spring/summer. There are plenty of ferries connecting Santorini to the mainland and islands like Anafi, Ios, Zakynthosm Mykonos, Milos and Naxos.

Where to stay on Santorini? For a hotel with serious character and a luxurious vibe, check into a former convent at Agialos Hotel in Fira. With stunning views over its whitewashed rooftops, youll get the classic Santorini scenery and sunsets alongside contemporary rooms, beautiful food and a small pool. For a more affordable stay, head to Armeni Village Hotel in Oia, which has equally gorgeous sea views and beautiful, minimalist interiors.

Best Greek Island for Beaches aplenty & off-season escapes

Most Greek islands have a good selection of sandy stretches to explore, but on Skiathos there are over 50 beaches to choose from, so youre spoilt for choice here. Thats why its absolutely overrun with visitors from around Europe come summertime. To avoid the crowds, though, come in spring or early summer (May/June are best) or take a late summer sun break and visit from mid September onwards. Temperatures are still in the low 20s even in October.

The islands best beaches include Koukounaris think fine sand, watersports and sunbeds aplenty and the Big and Little Banana beaches, which have spectacular sunset views. On the eastern side of the island, Vromlimnos has a great taverna and plenty of sunbeds and watersports available.

How to get to Skiathos? British Airways has regular flights to Skiathos throughout peak season (June through September), and there are lots of ferries to and from the mainland (Agios Konstantinos on the east coast), as well as surrounding islands like Chora, Volos, Alonissos and Glossa. There are also regular flights from Athens.

Where to stay on Skiathos? For small-scale luxury, book into Skiathos Mystery where chic rooms and rooftop views are accompanied by a great pool and even better service. For something a little more lavish, try Skiathos Princess Hotel, which has plush furnishings and direct access to one of the islands top beaches.

Best Greek Island for Roman ruins & ancient architecture

The beaches on Kos are fantastic, but the highlight on this Aegean isle is the plethora of ancient sites. The Roman Odeon is one of the most important sites on the island, dating back to the second century AD. It has a capacity of 750 and was built to host musical competitions and political debates at the time.

Elsewhere theres the medieval castle of Neratzia, an abandoned town and Byzantine castle in Pyli and the second-century BC temple of Hercules. All of this sits alongside glorious stretches of sand lapped by the warm Mediterranean, and great hiking and biking opportunities. Theres also a host of family-friendly attractions, such as waterparks for the kids. Come in summer to celebrate at the Hippocratia Festival, which involves all manner of traditional dancing, singing, costume and food.

How to get to Kos? Both easyJet and Jet2 have direct flights to Kos, and there are internal flights from Athens with SkyExpress and Olympic. Ferries arrive to Kos from Piraeus, Syros, Rhodes, Naxos, Leros, Astypalea and many more.

Where to stay in Kos? TUIs adults-only resort, Sensimar Palazzo Del Mare, is a gorgeous getaway for anyone seeking a romantic escape. The huge resort has ample pool and sunbed space, and has its own beach. Wellness-focused Diamond Deluxe Hotel has a fantastic spa, indoor and outdoor pools and enjoys glorious sunset views.

Whichever Greek island you choose for your holiday, youre bound to have a spectacular time.

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Unmissable Greek islands: the 14 best islands for holidays and hopping - woman&home

Emily Caruso is blown away by the beauty of Norways Lofoten Islands, which have been described as the worlds most beautiful place

I could already feel the wind pick up while I was sitting at the navstation of the Bowman 57 Oriole as she dug in and started to heel assertively. A reef was needed and first mate Holly Vint peered below decks expectantly.

An arctic gale had been forecast nearby though not for our specific area and I was about to experience another learning curve moment on the effects of topography and localised anomalies in this unique corner of the world. Sailing inside the Arctic Circle, I should have been in full offshore clothing, but the balmy conditions of previous weeks leading up to our recent crew change in Troms had made me complacent.

Reefing Oriole requires work at the mast where the majority of control lines are led, a position that left me vulnerable to every freezing wave that crossed her deck. I wound up drenched, freezing cold and should have been better prepared.

Crew training at the start of the Lofoten voyage

Gabriella Giuffre, an engineer design manager from the UK, managed the helm while the rest of our expedition crew looked on from the safety of the cockpit, appreciating the warmth of the Fladen suits wed been issued with. Comfort zones were being challenged and my own preconceptions of what arctic sailing conditions might involve had been well and truly met.

Oriole was content with her new sail plan and our eclectic crew of expedition sailors pushed on through to our destination port of Nergardsvik, which provided us with perfect shelter from the strong south-westerly winds, which consistently blew more than 30 knots.

The gale made it easy to forget the almost faultless sailing conditions wed encountered on the open stretch of water that brought us south from our previous anchorage on the south of the island of Senja; a stunning and relatively shallow location that allowed plenty of reaction time should the wind shift or increase overnight which it did.

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Close encounters of the rocky kind are normally the stuff of sailors nightmares, but the unique glacial grooves cut into

Congratulations, captain. Dave McKay, one of our regular crew aboard Isbjrn, had those words for me as we dropped anchor

As we approached Nergardsvik harbour, we could see there were few places to come alongside. The new marina to the east was too shallow and so we had only the option of one pontoon end, which was conveniently made available by a departing motorboat. Perfect timing!

The cold, rough weather we experienced just three days and less than 60 miles into our overall expedition was a significant exception to the rule as the Lofoten Islands represent a really interesting climate anomaly. Despite their latitude on the 68th and 69th parallels, the Gulf Stream delivers a relatively temperate climate, making the area the most northerly on the globe to experience average temperatures above freezing.

Add to this the fact that from early May to mid-July the sun doesnt drop below the horizon and here is a truly unique cruising ground which exceeded any expectations I could have imagined.

Helming was a delight during long, sunny days in the Lofotens

The first few days without darkness were novel but after that it became evident that our human behaviours are intrinsically related to the cycle of the sun. Sleeping became difficult and time awareness and normal daily patterns were hard to control.

Seeing the midnight sun for the first time and then constantly every day makes you very aware of the high latitude, despite the balmy temperatures. I couldnt imagine living here between early December and January when there is no rising sun: its easy to see why many of the residents are seasonal, living out the winter back on the mainland and significantly further south.

The Lofoten Islands are famous for their great cod fisheries as the fish also migrate south during winter from the Barents Sea, and cod racks of dried fish heads are a common sight on the islands.

On many occasions throughout our arctic adventure wed anchor and expectantly throw a fishing line over the side. The catch was always abundant and wed often settle down to a dinner of freshly caught cod to supplement the variety of ingredients we had provisioned on board. Theres something idyllic about fishing for your dinner against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains, surrounded by the splendour of the Norwegian Fjords.

Our Bowman 57 has a large saloon, which provides a fantastic social setting to share meals and exchange stories. As we dined on cod at anchor in the Sigerfjord many tales were told and toasts given while Oriole held fast in the lee of the surrounding landscape on her trusty 40kg Rocna anchor and plentiful chain.

Maximising the potential for cruising in this part of the world requires a boat equipped to deal with remote and deep anchorages and that can sustain itself for extended periods without relying on the facilities of a fully equipped marina. Our trickiest task was to find fresh water to top up the 1,000lt tank capacity and we carried a lengthy water hose, which proved one of our most valuable assets.

Resources such as fuel and water are available along the way but having to rely on regular refilling could easily mean missing out on some of the most spectacular remote anchorages between harbours.

As we finally reached the Lofoten Island chain the crew became excited as we neared the world famous Trollfjord, the spectacular and much-anticipated high point in the voyage. The wind was as fickle as ever among the soaring rock faces that surrounded us and so we motor-sailed as we ate lunch, spotting sea eagles along the way and admiring every inlet and cove as we made our way south.

Above us the cloud formations danced around the mountain peaks while periodically revealing a blue sky and perfect sunshine, and aboard Oriole crew member Emma produced a stunning lemon drizzle cake that shed baked as we passed through this remarkable landscape.

Orioles Lofoten crew came from various walks of life for the adventure

It was amazing yet reassuring that a place of such incredible natural beauty was so remarkably quiet. Cruise ships regularly navigate this route, incredibly turning 180 within the confines of the fjord walls with a clearance of just a few metres either side. Just a few boat lengths of deep emerald green water separate the snow-capped cliffs, with waterfalls on either side and wooden Norwegian summer houses at the waters edge.

Oriole was respectfully quiet as every one of us absorbed the landscape and the contrast of vibrant green flora alongside the harsh rock faces. The abundance of bird life that occupied the crevices and ledges provided us with endless entertainment and it felt very special to share this environment with its natural inhabitants.

After being completely overwhelmed with the beauty of the Trollfjord, we started to head further south to explore some of the less visited areas of the Lofoten Islands, investigating a variety of anchorages along the way.

Orioles crew shore party at Lille Molle

Our eventual need to top up the water tanks brought us to the picturesque fishing harbour of Skrova. The visitors pontoon was out of space, so we came alongside on a private pontoon belonging to one of the local residents.

It was refreshing to experience a culture that embraces the arrival of visitors. Rather than turning us away, local man Per was happy for us to spend a few nights on his berth and even provided us with the use of a fresh water hose to fill our tanks.

And just a short walk along the adjoining road led to a most unlikely and remarkable artistic display of photographs of the islands, situated in a rocky tunnel (with protective hard hats provided for visitors).

During our stay, the crew found a beach on the north side of the island that could be compared to any tropical paradise, and which provided spectacular views of an anchorage to the north east. We identified the location as Lille Molle and decided to make passage there the following day to anchor and explore.

The tender was inflated and the shore party, led by first mate Holly, set off ashore for a brief evening jaunt to see the rare sight of sea eagles nesting with their young. Next stop, Reine is certainly the most tourist-driven destination that we visited through our voyage and yet it seemed so quiet given the time of year and the exquisite experience that it has to offer.

The village of Reine has been described as the most beautiful place in the world

This little corner of paradise is situated on the island of Moskenesya towards the southern end of the Lofoten chain. Regular ferries from Bod bring summer visitors to this beautiful fishing port and daily boat trips run to different locations within the nearby fjords for ramblers and hikers of all levels of experience.

The small visitors marina was too shallow for our draught but there was just enough pontoon space next to the fishing quay. So we spent a full day in Reine to allow the crew the chance to explore, walking through stunning scenery to picturesque beaches. A few of us even braved the icy waters for a very rapid dip that proved both invigorating and bracing.

From our berth it was a fairly long trek to the nearest supermarket for final victuals but that was no hardship given the scenery and weather. Despite the generally high cost of provisioning in Norway we were able to buy fresh seafood at reasonable prices and came back with an abundance of prawns for our final dinner ahead of our last open water sail back to Bod.

Reine is a tourist destination, though youd hardly know it

Our penultimate night was to be spent at an amazing anchorage at the island of Landegode, Sandvik, just 10 miles from our final destination, and we had a spectacular 65-mile reach back towards the mainland with a flat sea and clear skies as Oriole revelled in the near perfect conditions.

Id chosen the anchorage based on the forecast and had expected to rest in the lee of the rock faces that sat to the north, but instead the breeze accelerated and veered around the cliffs as we made our first approach.

We made a few attempts before I was finally happy to turn off the engine. Thankful for another secure night at anchor we awoke to brilliant sunshine and impressive temperatures as, once again, arctic Norway continued to surprise us.

Sandy beaches and tranquil waters on the island of Landegode

The neighbouring beach was too attractive to resist and we set off ashore in the RIB for a final swim. There were squeals of surprise as the more adventurous crew submersed themselves in the cold water, tactically dodging the odd jellyfish that floated past.

Our crew had a mixed level of experience and background representing a variety of ages and occupations everything from high ranking police officer to a building developer and teacher all of whom were looking to take part in an expedition holiday to push their comfort zones and explore some of the less easily accessible parts of our planet.

Regardless of what expectations or preconceptions each crewmember brought, this part of the world could not fail to deliver a remarkable and unique experience for all.

Oriole lying to anchor at Landegode

Norway is expensive for foreign visitors; your average pint of beer costs around 10 and dining ashore is a rare treat for the majority. The Lofoten Islands are no exception to this. The flip-side is an unbelievable example of Mother Nature at her finest (which the Norwegians manage to sustain whilst still producing 4G phone coverage and impressive accessibility, despite the islands remoteness!).

The flora and fauna are abundant and every day brought another entirely unspoilt vista. The Lofoten Islands simply have to be one of the most beautiful cruising areas in the world, and are certainly a place best explored from the water.

The weeks from mid-May and throughout June will deliver the quietest cruising experiences, with school holidays in Norway bringing more visitors from mid-July to mid-August.

The midnight sun will be visible through this period too and is a phenomenon that should be witnessed by every sailor in their lifetime, as should the wonderful landscapes and seascapes that the Lofoten Islands have to offer.

Be prepared to be self-sustaining to maximise the potential of your visit, given both the price of provisioning locally and the availability of resources in remote locations.

Make the effort, however, and the Lofotens experience will far surpass any preconceptions you may have. This place really is something very special.

First published in the August 2018 edition of Yachting World.

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Lofoten Islands: Is this Arctic paradise the world's most beautiful place? - Yachting World

Wildfires in Greece and Siberia, drought in Australia, floods in Kerala. The drastic impact of climate change is evident the world over. Severely hit by these disasters like every other industry, hospitality also shares the blame for adversely affecting the health of the planet.

The United Nations World Tourism Organization has estimated that hotels worldwide contribute to about 1 percent of total greenhouse gas emissions. Putting that in context, the Accor group has estimated that its environmental impact is equivalent to that of a city of 5,00,000 inhabitants. And thats one group of hotels with around 4,900 properties globally. Now imagine the impact of 2,00,000 hotels!

A study published in 2018 in Nature Climate Change reveals that between 2009 and 2013, tourisms global carbon footprint increased four times more than previously estimated, accounting for about 8 percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. The study took into account everything from air travel to hotels and souvenirs.

If the worlds hotels are to meet the Paris Agreement goal of limiting temperature rise to under 2 C, they will have to reduce carbon emissions by 66 percent come 2030 and by 90 percent by 2050. This, according to the International Tourism Partnership (ITP), a grouping of hospitalitys most powerful companies. All the measures recommended to achieve these goals aim to make businesses sustainable. And hotel owners are responding in small and big waysdoing away with non-recyclable plastic, reusing printer cartridges, adopting renewable energy and reducing portion sizes.

Indian and international hotel groups are now insisting suppliers have certifications from agencies like The Rainforest Alliance, which uses nearly 100 social, environmental and economic criteria to examine a companys policies. The Marine Stewardship Council does just that but on the seafood supply end. In fact, there are over 140 green certifications in useEarthCheck, Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED), Green Key, Green Growth 2050, Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) and Global Sustainable Tourism Council, among several others. These are applied to everything from construction standards to how ethically a product or ingredient is sourced and are based on a mind-boggling array of factors.

Green Growth 2050 has over 400 indicators covering all aspects of operation from environmental and plastic use to local hiring and workplace health, explains John Roberts, group director of Sustainability & Conservation, Minor Hotels. From the very basic stuff like getting rid of plastic water bottles, which we did when we first became members in 2008, to a whole section on occupational health and safety and human rights now. The list, quite literally, goes on!

The best-known certification, perhaps, is LEED, which is conferred by the US (and now Indian) Green Building Council. In India, properties of ITC Hotels were the first to achieve the highest such rating.

LEED Platinum standards address energy and water efficiency, indoor environmental quality, reduction, reuse and recycling of waste, sustainable site selection and use of sustainable material for construction and consumables, explains Dipak Haksar, chief executive of ITC Hotels and WelcomHotels. More than 53 percent of electrical energy demand is currently met by our own wind and solar farms. More than 50 percent of the paper, stationery and wood is either FSC-certified, sourced locally or recycled. We have reduced water consumption across ITC Hotels by 50 percent over the past five years.

From key cards to toiletries, one of the biggest challenges that a hotelor even the Earthfaces is plastic. Most significantly, single-use items such as straws, which dont disintegrate easily and are not recycled.

Look at the numbers: Marriott Internationalwith over 6,500 hotels worldwideuses over a billion plastic straws, 25 million plastic stirrers and 35 million mini toiletry bottles every year. Almost all of this goes straight to landfills. In 2018, the group announced it was phasing out plastic straws and stirrers and replacing them with more eco-friendly options that would only be provided on request. It has also begun to replace mini toiletry bottles with larger, reusable bottles. A number of other leading hotel brands, including InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG), Hyatt, Accor, Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels, Soneva, ITC and Indian Hotels Company Limited (IHCL), have adopted both these measures.

IHCL has replaced plastic straws across all its properties with paper and bamboo straws, says PV Ramana Murthy, executive vice-president and global head of human resources at IHCL (better known as the Taj group), which has 81 hotels certified by EarthCheck. This helped us eliminate two million plastic straws from the ecosystem. Taj also launched its first zero single-use plastic hotel, Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Andamans. Along with its own biogas facility, water-bottling plant, a reservoir for rainwater harvesting and partial solar energy, the resort has partnered with the pollution control board to keep the island plastic-free.

Jean-Michel Casse, chief operating officer, India and South Asia, at Accor, says, Weve stressed how straws are not necessary for drinksF&B directors can design drinks and glassware that dont need straws.

Plastic used in packaging is another scourge that sustainability teams are attempting to resolve. For example, ibis hotels across India are experimenting with boxes and tableware made of bagasse, a sugar cane byproduct thats 100 percent biodegradable. Individual hotels are also making the switch from disposable plastic bathroom amenities to recyclable options. The Hyatt group across North America has removed single-use, non-recyclable earbuds from its fitness centres, replacing them with recyclable versions. Closer home, Pepper Trail in Wayanad and Brijrama Palace in Varanasi have ditched plastic toothbrushes for those made of eco-friendly materials.

Lastly, theres the problem of room key cards made of non-biodegradable PVC. While bigger chains grapple with finding scalable eco-friendly options, standalones are forging ahead. In 2018, The Ranch at Laguna Beach, California, started using keys made of bamboo and embedded with radio- frequency identificationa biodegradable option that encouraged conversations about sustainability with guests.

Agriculture is considered a leading cause for the extinction of wildlife species. Hotels are taking note of scientific studies and moving towards reducing their carbon footprint by buying local produce, choosing eco-labelled condiments and demanding that suppliers only provide cage-free eggs, source nitrate-free pork from farms where the animals are not raised in confinement, deliver ethically-raised beef and bring to the table seafood farmed responsibly.

Marriott International reserves over 70 percent of its spending for vendors who provide eco-certifications and/or are involved in conservation efforts. Similarly, Novotel Bengaluru serves coffee supplied by Black Baza Coffee, a fair trade-focussed agency that connects growers from BR Hills in Karnataka with the marketplace.

But deciding on what makes sense to source isnt always easy, Casse of Accor explains, The major challenge from an operations standpoint is the availability of information for accurate whole-life costing. Where is the product from? How is it made? What is it made from? How far does it travel? How is it packaged? How is it maintained? How much does it cost to maintain? How is it disposed of? What does it break down into? What does that do to the environment? And working out the net positive combination of all of these parameters is extremely difficult.

On the marine front, Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels, which owns and operates The Peninsula Hotels, has removed ingredients like shark fin from its menu, after concerns that excessive consumption is nudging certain species towards extinction. ITC Hotels, under the guidance of WWF- India and Central Marine Fisheries Research Institute, has gone a step ahead to remove all endangered species from its offerings.

Farming within kitchens view is another trend thats catching on among hoteliers. With techniques like hydroponics and aeroponics, chefs are using kitchen gardens to grow exotic herbs as well as veggies. The Orlando World Center Marriott partnered with hydroponic farming company HyCube to create a soil- and pesticide-free space that can grow 25,000 plants. Also, apiaries are a huge draw among hotels like Fairmont to not just support endangered bees but to also create their own honey lagers.

Given the challenges, especially for large chains involving thousands of properties, in reducing wastage of energy, water, food and other nature-dependant resources, hotel brands are employing smart technology to make smarter choices. To reduce energy consumption and cooling costs, roofs are tiled or painted with reflective material, walls are built with insulation, and the number and kind of openings, calculated. The Oberoi Group, for instance, uses fly ash, a byproduct of power plants, in its constructions. On the inside, it uses materials with high amounts of recycled content, FSC-certified wood as well as composite wood products.

IHGs QO Amsterdam hotel sourced one-third of the concrete it used from the recently demolished offices of Shell nearby. The facade was built using over 1,600 thermal panels that regulate the indoor temperature based on the climatic conditions outdoors. The hotel also uses an aquifer thermal energy storage system to stock unused heated water underground until it is needed up top, reveals Pascal Gauvin, managing director, India, Middle East and Africa, at IHG.

Apart from building new structures, brands are also adapting existing structures as hotels. The Wick, a former candle and soap factory, opened as a boutique luxury hotel in Hudson, New York, in 2018. Alila Fort Bishangarh in Rajasthan used the shell of an old fort to fashion out very modern digs. In Sri Lanka, Jetwing Vil Uyana regenerated neglected slash-and-burn agricultural land by recreating wetlands and native forests.

In cities like Paris and Mumbai, pollution control norms require hotels to treat discharge before it enters the drainage system. Also, given the harmful effects of cleaning agents on marine ecosystems, The Oberoi relies on biodegradable options and champions the use of natural fertilisers and biopesticides in its gardening and landscaping. In Gulmarg, The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa relies on a sewage treatment plant specially equipped to treat wastewater in sub-zero temperatures.

Also, showerheads that lessen water consumption and sensors for lights and ACs are becoming the norm. Shruti Shibulal, CEO of Tamara Leisure Experiences, told Fortune in an interview that tap aerators had reduced water use at their property by 30 percent.

Hotel chains such as The Oberoi Group, ITC, IHG, Four Seasons, Accor, Hyatt and Marriott are investing in machines that recycle food waste into greywater (used for flushing and watering plants), compost and biofuel. Properties are also employing digital tools to monitor and report resource usage. Emaar Hospitality Group has signed on tech firm Winnow to reduce food waste, aiming to cut consumption by two lakh meals in 2019. Visual recognition cameras and tablet devices quantify whats going into the bin and down the drain to calculate excess.

Theres also a big push towards adopting greener forms of energy. ITC Marathas biogas plant mitigates over 300 tons of greenhouse gases every year. This climate change impact is similar to replacing over 500 (carbon fuel-based) bikes or scooters with electric ones, says ITCs Dipak Haksar.

Both The Oberoi, Gurgaon, and Trident Gurgaon meet all their electricity needs via solar energy. In the Maldives, under threat of rising sea levels, Niyama Private Islands Maldives converts used cooking oil to fuel generators and desalination plants. In Sri Lanka, over 50 percent of Jetwing Hotels energy requirement is met through renewable means, including solar power parks at Jetwing Yala and Jetwing Lake.

Other interesting uses of technology include moves by Hong Kong and Shanghai Hotels and Westin Hotels to upcycle linen and create clothing. In 2018, Westin rewove 30,000 pounds of bed linen and terry cloth. The Park Hotels, apart from generating solar energy and harvesting rainwater at its Hyderabad property, offers guests an electric four-wheeler to zip around in. Also, Alila Hotels & Resorts is converting waste plastic into a light green crude oil that will be distilled down to diesel, kerosene and gasoline for reuse across its flagship hotels.

On the environmental front, hotels have been helping keep beaches clean, build coral reefs and protect endangered species. Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru works with world-renowned expert Dr Guy Stevens on the Maldivian Manta Ray Project. Its the founding project of the worlds largest manta ray charity, Manta Ray Trust. Meanwhile, using the money guests help save by reusing bath towels, Accor has joined forces with PUR Project in a global reforestation programme.

However, hospitality leaders are realising that long-term sustenance will come from planting ones roots deeperby investing in local communities. Six Senses Fiji focuses on employing locally and also collaborates with an NGO to support the economy by featuring homeware and crafts made by women in remote communities at the resorts villas, restaurants and boutique.

The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation in Thailand is empowering the next generation of mahouts by providing English teachers in village schools using funds raised by Anantara guests. In the Maldives, where rising global temperatures are accentuating a drinking water crisis, Soneva, apart from running a range of stellar conservation projects, is using its solar-powered desalination plant to supply water to the residents of neighbouring atolls. And in North America, Repeat Roses is giving Marriotts floral arrangement a proper spruce up and then delivering them to hospitals, nursing homes and cancer treatment centres.

In India, the Taj groups collaboration with the Last Wilderness Foundation and the Panna Forest Department is a pioneering example. Taj Safaris Pashan Garh is a lodge near Panna Tiger Reserve where its naturalists mentor youth from the highly marginalised Pardhi community to develop community-based tourist trails. The aim: to prevent the next generation from joining poaching rings.

The uniqueness of the Walk with The Pardhis initiative lies in the fact that the communitys natural entrepreneurial streak and flair for tracking animals and reading the forests are leveraged to create an alternative livelihood path linked to the growing tourism in this region, says PV Ramana Murthy of IHCL. Along with building on their existing strengths and enabling alternative livelihoods, this project also furthers preservation and promotion of natural and cultural heritage and wildlife conservation.

The hotel groups attempts to empower marginalised groups also include supporting 14 skill-training centres that impart short courses in hospitality and tourism to the less privileged youth.

Such moves are in keeping with ITPs 2030 goal for the hospitality industry to aid one million youth under 25. Its an important goal given that the International Labour Organization estimates that over 40 percent of the worlds youth is unemployed or lives in poverty. While Hyatt says it plans to recruit 10,000 youth by 2025, Marriott is putting down US$5 million to train and skill those from at-risk and underserved communities.

THE SUM OF IT ALL

By 2017, Marriott Internationalpossibly the worlds largest chain of hotels with over 7,000 propertieshad reduced its carbon intensity (a metric used to measure emission of pollutants) by 8 percent. The goal is to reduce energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions by 30 percent and water consumption by 20 percent by 2020. The Hyatt group says it has already achieved its 2020 goal of reducing water use and greenhouse gas emissions by 25 percent in Asia and the Middle East.

IHGs Pascal Gauvin says utility costs are the second biggest expense of its hotels; Throughout 2018, hotels using our online sustainability platform, IHG Green Engage, avoided costs of US$67 million, he says. John Roberts of Minor Hotels adds that the 10 to 15 percent improved operations by their resorts equate a US$576,000 saving in energy and water costs in the first half of this year.

The conclusion: the hospitality industry is going far beyond replanting coral reefs, funding afforestation and supporting beach clean-up drives. If that isnt good long-term business sense, we dont know what is.

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How hotels are helping offset your eco guilt - Cond Nast Traveller India - The Last Word in Travel

Cities are precarious creatures. They are unable to live or breathe without a myriad of lifelines from the surrounding world to feed them, heat them, and take their waste away. Edges can survive without cities (Orkney does every time the lifeline ferry [from the Scottish mainland] stops). But cities cannot survive without their edges; there is a reason why post-apocalyptic stories feature people fleeing the broken infrastructures of the city, heading for the resilient edge.

Laura Watts, Energy at the End of the World: an Orkney Islands Saga, p. 33

Recently, energy writers and scholars have tried to humanize energy, to underscore that energy is at the heart of everything we do, say, and vote for. Yet this ambitious task of merging social science and the humanities often falls short. Richard Rhodes celebrated Energy: A Human History, for instance, was criticized for lacking a coherent narrative, despite the hundreds of human-centered anecdotes and facts he marshals.

It is at the local level, however, and with an ethnographic approach that we can best merge the human with energy. For this reason, Laura Watts Energy at the End of the World: An Orkney Islands Saga (MIT Press, 2018) is an excellent, and beautiful, book. Her work is the product of nearly a decade of research and thinking about the energy challenges and successes of the people living in a group of islands off the northern coast of Scotland, the Orkneys.

I became more human in my relationship to energy and even Europe. The Orkneys initially reminded me of the U.S. state of Maine, where I visited nearly a dozen times growing up. But I quickly realized this is way off base. For one, the Orkneys are islands and require levels of self-sufficiency the Mainers, who mostly live on land, cannot imagine. Secondly, the winds, waves, and tides on Orkney are on another level. The wind is so strong that teachers sometimes restrict small children from playing outside, lest they be blown away. Yet the wind also provides the islands with more onshore and offshore wind, wave, and tidal-generated power than residents can consume.

It is into this world of energy futures and their developing infrastructures (p. 17) that Watts takes us. Labeling her account a saga may sound immodest, but it captures her role as part-ethnographer and part-imaginer of the future: I must write a world, not just take the existing world apart (p. 15). Watts is a lecturer in energy and society at the University of Edinburgh, and her academic approach, all whilst scribbling in my ethnographic notebook (p. 18), brings rigor to a story that affects us all in profound, if not directly clear, ways.

Energy at the End of the World is divided into three parts. The first, Making Orkney Electrons, helps situate the reader into the islands energy challenge. The Orkneys generate roughly 120 percent of their energy demand with renewables, but only two 20-megawatt (MW) lines, one for export and one for import, connect this power to mainland Scotland (p. 27-8). The excess power simply goes to waste. Augmenting exports could obviously curb fuel poverty on the island, from which 63 percent of households were estimated to suffer in 2014. Transmission costs from Scotland are exorbitant, as are petrol costs, despite the Orkneys and Scotland being rich in resources. The islands wind turbines often stand unused because Orcadians cannot afford to buy this power from the private company on the mainland (p. 53-5).

There are some solutions, the most immediate being somewhat counter-intuitive: Orcadians needs to consume more power. If they do so, the company will send more to the island and decrease cost. The best way to do this is electric vehicles (EVs), and the islands have been well ahead of the curve. The first EV arrived in 2005 for testing, and Mitsubishi sent the first commercial fleet in 2011. Orkney is ideal for EVs because cars only need to go relatively short distances that fall within range of current battery technologies (pp. 87-95). Battery storage and hydrogen solutions are also being considered. For this reason, many refer to the Orkneys as a living laboratory for shifting from oil to renewables.

The second part, Making Energy Futures, takes us on the long journey to today, the longue dure of French historian Fernand Braudel (p. 143). The islands, we learn, are a paragon of energy history and archaeology inhabitants have innovated technology and built monumental structures for six thousand years. The latest innovative thrust is renewable energy; the islands powerful winds, waves, and tides have already radically improved residents future.

Of course, there have been problems. The Burray wind turbine, constructed in 2005 by a group of individuals looking to generate power and profit, was technically the first community wind turbine on the Orkneys. But determining how the profits from such turbines should be spent proved problematic. Communities, Watts demonstrates, are never monolithic and homogenous; building them around energy technologies requires care work into their long future (p. 177).

Creating energy on the Orkneys requires collaboration, something that comes naturally to residents, as well as time and silence (pp. 200-9). The commitment to the common ground is more unifying than in most other prosperous geographies such as cities, where the lack of real energy challenges, i.e. shortages and intermittency, prompts us to divide pettier lines. The energy journey, in other words, is never an easy one, but at least the Orkneys have the cooperative spirit.

The Orkneys most unique contribution to energy lies underneath its coastlines. In 2008, Pentland Firth became the worlds first area for large-scale, commercial marine (wave and tidal) energy development. The Minister of Scotland said it had the potential to become the Saudi Arabia of marine power (p. 251). Yet as a new technology, it presented new obstacles: low tide is not a long period, making repairs challenging; the sea is full of grit that gunks up the machines and makes it difficult to observe them; and waves move differently and more dynamically and unpredictably than winds or river currents, making harnessing them more challenging (pp. 270-2).

Photo: Tidal Energy Generator, Eday, European Marine Energy Centre; Credit: Wikimedia Commons.

Commercializing the sea is a new step for humankind, and predictably full of pitfalls. Watts describe how the developers of Pentland Firth, Crown Estate Scotland, did not appreciate the complexities of the undersea environment or account for Orcadians belief in Norse udal law, which is more of a sensibility about being the custodians of the natural and the monuments, and predates the Crown feudal law (pp. 280-7). The sea, in other words, is more than a commodity.

These are valid concerns, but I found this discussion oversensitive and contradictory. Things need to happen at some point, and failure is part of experience. Later, Watts argues that one problem is the lack of international standards because the industry isnt streamlined. There are thirty or so small companies working in the Orkneys. But consolidation would surely bring further commercialization and privatization. In general, the last third of the book, Making Marine Energy could have been pruned and more sanguine.

Yet this is ethnography. The people are the voice, and it is not the authors authority to alter it, or mine to judge. She starts the book, moreover, by describing a 2008 meeting between a Silicon Valley scout and local environmental consultant, eager to create a narrative for a clean energy future. This reminds the reader how much time we have lost in the last eight years, ignoring our edges, and our past. The gloom is warranted.

Yet Watts is not gloomy about the future the Orkney electron tells me the end is not nigh (p. 123). This spirit is reflected in her style, which is both Homeric she situates characters within sharp colors amidst untamable natural forces and disorienting we are never sure where she is headed next. From the first sentence, she transports you transports you to a different world, where you must where a hat and gloves in the summer. The epilogue is also a fitting exit: the mist has encompassed the ferry, and I no longer know where I am (p. 379).

Watts accounts, lastly, is, self-admittedly, a more feminist attention to electric and literal power (p. 66). Orcadians live with energy obstacles. Energy is cut, sold, and scarce; it does not conform to the ideal of frictionless capitalism (p. 77, 174). For two hundred years, we have taken energy for granted. It has bestowed more wealth than we could have ever imagined. Its safe to assume that the future will require even greater care.

Energy at the End of the World appeals to all audiences. It stands alone as a travelogue, even if the reader has little interest in energy. It also serves as a useful introduction to the history of renewable energy and todays challenges. Energy geeks, of course, will also learn something new, and enjoy a beautiful, lyrical story along the way. Most of us will never visit the Orkneys or other such places on our peripheries. I am glad I got to do so through Watts eyes and wholeheartedly encourage others to do so as well.

Photo: Rough Seas at Yesnaby; Credit: Wikimedia Commons.

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Book Review: Winds, Waves and Tides Swirl in 'Orkney Islands Saga' - Energy Reporters

Jamaica Inn

FOR CLASSIC CARIBBEAN VIBES: JAMAICA INN

Given their bottom lines, most Caribbean hotels work hard to get you to stay on property. Jamaica Inn, though, works hard to get youoff. Thats because the storied 48-suite, 4-villa boutique hotel in Ocho Rioswhich dates back to the 1940s and has over the years welcomed everyone from Winston Churchill and Errol Flynn to TS Eliott and Marilyn Monroeis deeply committed to something all properties ought to put above all: community.

Local excursions are thus part and parcel of your blissful stay. Theres a private boat ride to breathtaking Dunns River Falls, and rafting on the Martha Brae River in Trelawney. Guests can visit the local farmers market with Jamaican Inns executive chef, then return to property for a cooking demonstration. Dinner reservations can be made at local gem Miss Ts Kitchen, which has just opened a new wine bar and serves up the best curried lobster in all of Jamaica (yes, I said it!). A must-do is the lovely boat ride to Jamaica Inns thriving fish sanctuary: Via the Jamaican Inn Foundation, which also supports local schools and a womens center, this sanctuary has brought stretches of vibrant reef back to life single-handedly.

Jamaica Inn Cottage

Of course, its also easy to simply stay put and bask in all the on-property joys. The stunningly manicured 8-acre resort sits on a 700-foot private beach that will carry you to otherworldly levels of R&R. All rooms have private balustraded balconies or large verandahs overlooking the wateras if designed to promote reading and contemplation. A live band performs at the restaurant every night, and menus feature all things local: ackee and saltfish for breakfast, Jamaican patties for lunch, curried goat or fresh snapper for dinner. Take a Spice and Fruit Tour of the gardens with the ever-knowledagble Mr. Henry; get schooled in Rumology at Teddys Beach Bar with the vivacious bartender Jevvon; enjoy a new CBD oil massage treatment in a cabana hanging over the sea at the divine Ocean Spa. It all adds up to Jamaica exactly as you want to experience it. Jamaicainn.com

LOCAL TIP Have Jamaica Inn book your trip toStush in the Bush, a farm-to-table dining experience at ZionItes, a 15-acre certified organic farm in the hills of St. Ann. Its theirie,ital Jamaica that few get to seeand taste. Stushinthebush.com

FOR FOODIES: GRAND HYATT BAHA MAR

Grand Hyatt Baha Mar Grotto

Full disclosure: I am not a big hotel kind of girl. Boutique might as well be my middle name. So even though I dont have to be asked twice to hop over to wonderful Nassau, Bahamasespecially given its need for tourism support in the wake of Hurricane Dorian, which devastated Abaco and Grand Bahama but left the other islands mostly unscathedI was daunted by a stay at Baha Mar: a colossal development thats home to three hotels and one more in the making, the largest casino in the Caribbean, six swimming pools, a Jack Nicklaus signature 18-hole golf course and more.

But once I settled into my divine room in the sky at the Grand Hyatt Baha Mar, I found myself appreciating the quite special aspects of the complex: a swimming pool with massive glass windows showcasing the turtles, sharks and sting rays at the neighboring wildlife sanctuary; a pink flamingo mini-farm; a palatial 30,000-square-foot ESPA spa; a vibrant community arts center.

Then I began eating. And eating. And eating some more. And this brought me to a dramatic conclusion: Baha Mar is the Disneyland of food, boasting some of the best food I have ever eaten in a big-hotel setting.

Grand Hyatt Baha Mar

By day I feasted at the charming airstream trucks set up on the beach and offering a dazzling array of yumminess: Umami burgers, Mexican delights, authentic barbeque, well-dressed hot dogs, a range of sliders, custom daqueries. Evening came with anxiety: Did I want to go to Greece, Japan or China? I reveled in all three: the feted Katsuya served up truffle ponzu ceviche, lobster dynamite, and miso glazed black cod; Shuang Ba was a journey through the regional cuisines of China, from Peking duck salad, lobster soup and cherry fois gras to chili boiled beef and conch dumplings (a great local touch); Cleo Mediterrneo perfected seafood paella, moussakah, kebabs, curried calamari and a rack of lamb that still makes me salivate. Nights were spent enjoying the music at rooftop hangout Skybar, or sipping Appleton 12 years rum at the classy T Cigar Lounge, partly owned by Tiger Woods and Justin Timberlake (just for kicks, order a Sexy Back, made from patron, raspberry and strawberry). And for a midnight snack there were lamb kofta meat balls, crab cakes, and kobe beef sliders at Jazz Bar, featuring live performances most nights.

By the end of my stay I still hadnt sampled everythingbut I did plan an eating agenda for my inevitable return: sample Stix Noodle Bar, where chefs hand pull traditional Chinese noodles; taste osso bucco and asparagus with burrata at Fi'lia by Michael Schwartz; try theantojitos(little cravings) and mezcals at Costa;order grilled oysters and Nassau grouper at 3 Tides Fish House; devour a steak at Carna by Dario Cecchini. Then, most importantly: go to the gym. Hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/thebahamas/grand-hyatt-baha-mar/nasgh

LOCAL TIP There is one very, very vital Bahamian dish that you cannot get at Baha Mara dish it should be criminal to leave Nassau without eating: fresh conch salad. Get it, along with great local vibes, atStingray Point Native Food & Pub, located on the strip of famous, music-filled conch shacks under the bridge to Paradise Island.

FOR PARTY-LOVERS: THE MONDRIAN SOUTH BEACH

Pool at The Mondrian South Beach

You came to Miami Beach to party. Of course you didso did everyone else. Make that mission easy by checking into the Mondrian South Beach: a feted 218-room hotel thats also ground zero for all things revelry. Set on a lovely stretch ofwaterfront along Biscayne Bay and boasting funky, Instagram-friendly dcor by Dutch designer Marcel Wanders, the hotel has a sprawling pool area that beckons for swimming, yes, but so much more: people watching, sipping bubbly, lounging on the comfy day beds while admiring the unofficial bikini fashion show unfolding around you, snacking on sushi and sliders, sipping more bubbly and jumping in the pool to sober up.At the Sundance Pool Series every Saturday and Sunday theres a DJ andRos specials, turning up the see-and-be-seen factor by many a notch.

The indoor-outdoor Mondrian Caffe is also quite the South Beach scene, especially during happy hourand especially on Fridays, home toSunset Fridays. Order upcoconut rum-based concoctions like the Sunset Breeze, with fresh lime juice and watermelon, and pair it with specially priced Cuban sliders, tangerine charred octopus and beef empanadas.Extend Saturday nights festivities into Sunday at the Caffes all-you-can-eat buffet, which boasts an intense spread of sushi, BBQ selections, omelets, salads, and make-your-own parfaits. Theres a complimentary Mimosa or Bloody Mary included, but youre in South Beach, after all, so go for the bottomless Mimosas or the Grey Goose Experience (at surprisingly affordable prices).

Sunset at The Mondrian South Beach

For all that partying youll need two things: fashion and a hangover strategy. The Mondrian has got you covered. Thanks to their partnership with Lady Jetset, a white-glove concierge fashion rental service, a different designer outfit can land in your room daily. As for that hangover, nothing tackles it like a spa treatment, making the hotels modishGUYandGIRL Spa a must-visit. Try their deep sleep dream-inducing treatment, which uses guided breathing meditation, lavender balms and an acupressure point sequence to give you the rest youre not getting in Miami, night after joyful night.Morganshotelgroup.com

LOCAL TIP Bodega Taqueria Y Tequila boasts some seriously delicious tacos (try the barbacoa and thecamaron al coco, with coconut shrimp), an excellent tequila and mescal collection and a cool, warehouse-style back room thats the perfect place to get your night started (Bodegasouthbeach.com). If youre traveling in October, be sure to partake in the Caribbean-themed fetes during Miami Carnival weekend, which gets more robust by the year; any party by Jay Upscale Promotions (Instagram.com/jayupscale/?hl=en) or Scorch (Thescorch.com) is sure to be a winner.

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Your Winter Escape Roundup: Where to Stay This Season in Jamaica, the Bahamas and Miami - Forbes