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Daily Archives: July 7, 2017
Progress: Ten Reasons to Look Forward to the Future – amazon.com
Posted: July 7, 2017 at 2:04 am
Named one of the best books of the year by The Economist
"Persuasive." The Wall Street Journal
"His unfailing optimism and well-argued points generate powerful good-news vibes." Esquire(UK)
"Norberg has a strong case and he makes it with energy and charm. A pertinent book for grumpy times." Sunday Times (UK)
"Johan Norberg chronicles the still largely unknown fact that humanity is now healthier, happier, cleaner, cleverer, freer and more peaceful than ever before. He also explains why in this superb book." Matt Ridley, author of The Evolution of Everything
"At a time of profound pessimism, Johan Norberg is refreshingly, but not glibly, optimistic. His excellent book documents the dramatic improvements in peoples lives and reminds us of the huge potential for further progress provided we are open to it." Philippe Legrain, author of European Spring
"An exhilarating book. With the combination of arresting stories and striking data, Progress will change your understanding about where weve come from and where we may be heading." Steven Pinker, author of The Better Angels of Our Nature
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Beyond ‘nerds’ and ‘ninjas,’ slow progress for Asian actors in … – CNN
Posted: at 2:04 am
"Asian actors want to play the lead, the romantic character, the hero, just like everyone else," Tan told CNN.
And like most Asian and Asian American actors, Tan has had to battle stereotypes.
"We're cast as ninjas, monks, nerds, the third, fourth, fifth best friend who is a nerd, killers, doctors and for women, the sexy Asian woman who's dating a white guy," Tan quipped.
The actor, who is of Chinese, Singaporean and British descent, most recently starred as Zhou Cheng in the Netflix series "Iron Fist."
The action-packed show follows the adventures of a martial artist who possesses a mystical force.
Yet the central role went to white actor, Finn Jones, to the dismay of some viewers who wanted to see Tan in the part even though the character in the comic "Iron Fist" isn't Asian.
Regardless, Tan considers his role on the show a win.
"It's an exciting time in a lot of ways because things are opening up," Tan said. "There was a time when things weren't as open for [Asian actors], so it's exciting for me to see actors being booked and called in for roles."
To date, the call for increased diversity in the film and television industry has primarily focused on opportunities for African American, Latino and LGBT creatives, with artists of Asian descent somewhat ignored.
That felt evident to some at the 2016 Academy Awards.
Even as #OscarsSoWhite took center stage, host Chris Rock made a joke using three Asian child actors that resulted in two dozen Asian members of the Academy crafting an open letter demanding an apology.
There has been some notable progress with portrayals in Aziz Ansari's critically acclaimed Netflix series "Master of None" and ABC's sitcom-hit "Fresh Off The Boat," but other projects showcase the challenges many Asian performers still face.
Actors Daniel Dae Kim and Grace Park departed the CBS drama "Hawaii Five-0" last week over a reported pay disparity between the actors and their white co-stars.
"The path to equality is rarely easy," Kim wrote in a Facebook post about leaving the show. "But I hope you can be excited for the future. I am."
"As an Asian American actor, I know first-hand how difficult it is to find opportunities at all, let alone play a well developed, three dimensional character like Chin Ho," he also said. "I will miss him sincerely."
Tan, who spoke to CNN prior to Kim and Park leaving their show, said while he'd like to see even more opportunities for actors of Asian descent, he applauds the inclusion of people of color period.
"I want to see everyone rise," he said. "I think we all will have our time, if we push it, if we do the work and if we make our voices heard."
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Beyond 'nerds' and 'ninjas,' slow progress for Asian actors in ... - CNN
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Betsy DeVos Heads to North Korea to Reverse Its Progress in Math and Science – The New Yorker (satire)
Posted: at 2:04 am
WASHINGTON ( The Borowitz Report )Education Secretary Betsy DeVos is being dispatched to Pyongyang in what the White House is calling a high-stakes mission to reverse North Koreas years of progress in math and science.
DeVos, who is expected to arrive in Pyongyang later this week, plans to throw a monkey wrench in North Koreas swiftly advancing nuclear program by replacing its current system of training scientists with a dizzying array of vouchers, sources said.
According to the White House, it is hoped that, after a few weeks in North Korea, DeVos will succeed in returning that nations nuclear program to pre-1970 levels.
At a press briefing announcing the mission, the White House deputy press secretary, Sarah Huckabee Sanders, called DeVos our nations best bet to stop North Korea.
If anyone can get North Koreas missiles to start blowing up on the launchpad again, its Betsy, Sanders said.
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DeKalb County makes progress in water billing crisis – AJC.com – Atlanta Journal Constitution
Posted: at 2:04 am
Since April, DeKalb County has reviewed and released8,000 water bills it identified as inaccurate last fall. Only 20 bills have been disputed - progress for a county trying to resolve a problema decade in the making, CEO Michael Thurmond said at a meeting with county commissioners on Thursday.
Homeowners received incorrect bills for thousands of dollars.
Some of those disputes are the result ofstartlingly high bills, but Thurmond reassured customers that they will not be penalized for any errors DeKalb made in billing.
The county is focusing on billing for only the most current billing period as they await an official solution for backbilling. Our goal is to have our 184,000 customers receiving regular bills monthly or bimonthly. No decision has been made by administration about backbilling, Thurmond said.
>> Subscribers can read more about the updates inDeKalb water billing crisis at myajc.com
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Vigils note progress a year after Castile shooting – The Philadelphia Tribune
Posted: at 2:04 am
ST. PAUL, Minn. Family and friends of Philando Castile on Thursday marked the one-year anniversary of his fatal shooting during a routine traffic stop, organizing vigils and celebrations and pushing to name a new police training fund in his memory.
Castile, a 32-year-old school cafeteria worker, was shot to death by St. Anthony police Officer Jeronimo Yanez last July 6, seconds after informing Yanez that he was carrying a gun. Castile had a gun permit. Yanez was acquitted of manslaughter last month after testifying that Castile ignored his commands not to pull out the gun.
It was the second, high-profile fatal shooting of a Black man by Minnesota police officers in less than a year, exacerbating divides between law enforcement and the black community. It followed the November 2015 death of 24-year-old Jamar Clark, who was shot and killed by Minneapolis police officers after what onlookers described as a struggle.
The officers involved in that shooting were not charged. Castiles shooting drew immediate attention because his girlfriend, Diamond Reynolds, livestreamed the aftermath on Facebook. She was in the car with her then-4-year-old daughter.
Castiles mother, uncle and other family members gathered with Democratic Gov. Mark Dayton at the Capitol Thursday as they encouraged the states police training board to name the recently created $12 million training fund after Castile. His family members sounded both somber about his death and hopeful that such shootings can be prevented in the future.
This is not about my son anymore, said Valerie Castile, his mother. This is about the next generation of children.
Minnesotas Legislature set aside $12 million this year to help better train police officers in diverse communities, though its up to the states Peace Officer Standards and Training Board to formally name that fund. The specifics of the training would be also be worked out by the board itself, in conjunction with individual departments. Castiles family will have a say because Dayton appointed Clarence Castile, Philando Castiles uncle, to the 15-member board.
Dayton, who drew criticism last year for quickly suggesting Castiles race was a primary factor in his death, called it among the most traumatic events he has dealt with in his nearly seven years in office.
I believe this is a very positive step forward to begin healing, Dayton said Thursday. We have a responsibility, all of us who are in public service, to bring Minnesotans together.
Castiles family members planned to gather Thursday evening in Falcon Heights, the suburb where he was shot, for whats billed as a day of love and healing. It includes a candlelight vigil near the shooting scene. The family also plans a lantern release Friday night.
Castiles girlfriend is hosting an event Thursday afternoon in St. Paul. (AP)
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Omnipotence at the price of nihilism – Patheos (blog)
Posted: at 1:59 am
The bestselling bookHomo Deus: A Brief History of Tomorrowby Yuval Noah Harari argues that our species homo sapiens (man the wise) is evolving into homo deus (man the god).
Our technology is progressing at such a rate that human beings will merge with our machines. The resulting cyborgs will be omnipotent.
So far, this is just more fantasizing towards the new cyber-religion. But then Harari gets more original and more interesting: He says that the alliance between science and humanism that has held ever since the Enlightenment will break down.
The era of Homo Deus will no longer have a basis for justice, freedom, human rights, or any kind of moral ideals. So we will have to learn to live without them.
Harari takes for grantedthat religion has been disproven by science. Not only that there is no God, but that there is no soul, just the physical brain. And not only is there no soul, but there is no free will, no moral agency, and no meaning to existence.
That science has proven all of this is completely unfounded. But, as Michael Gerson points out in his review of the book (after the jump), Harari is at least intellectually honest in facing up to the implications of his ideas, which lead to utter nihilism: Omnipotence is in front of us, almost within our reach, Harari says, but below us yawns the abyss of complete nothingness.
From Michael Gerson, Humans reach for godhood and leave their humanity behind The Washington Post:
Much analysis of Yuval Noah Hararis brilliant new book, Homo Deus: A Brief History of Tomorrow, focuses on the harrowing dystopia he anticipates. In this vision, a small, geeky elite gains the ability to use biological and cyborg engineering to become something beyond human. It may upgrade itself step by step, merging with robots and computers in the process, until our descendants will look back and realize that they are no longer the kind of animal that wrote the Bible [or] built the Great Wall of China.. . .
Yet the predictions are not the most interesting bits of the book. It is important primarily for what it says about the present. For the past few hundred years, in Hararis telling, there has been a successful alliance between scientific thought and humanism a philosophy placing human feelings, happiness and choice at the center of the ethical universe. With the death of God and the denial of transcendent rules, some predicted social chaos and collapse. Instead, science and humanism (with an assist from capitalism) delivered unprecedented health and comfort. And now they promise immortality and bliss.
This progress has involved an implicit agreement, In exchange for power, says Harari, the modern deal expects us to give up meaning. Many (at least in the West) have been willing to choose antibiotics and flat-screen TVs over the mysticism and morality behind door No. 2.
It is Hararis thesis, however, that the alliance of science and humanism is breaking down, with the former consuming the latter. The reason is reductionism in various forms. Science, argues Harari, revealed humans as animals on the mental spectrum, then as biochemical processes and now as outdated organic algorithms. We have opened up the Sapiens black box and discovered there neither soul, nor free will, nor self but only genes, hormones and neurons.. . .
But Harari has one great virtue: intellectual honesty. Unlike some of the new atheists, he recognizes that science is incapable of providing values, including the humanistic values of Locke, Rousseau and Jefferson. Even Richard Dawkins, Steven Pinker and the other champions of the new scientific worldview refuse to abandon liberalism, Harari observes. After dedicating hundreds of erudite pages to deconstructing the self and the freedom of will, they perform breathtaking intellectual somersaults that miraculously land them back in the 18th century.
Harari relentlessly follows the logic of reductionism as it sweeps away individualism, equality, justice, democracy and human rights even human imagination. . . .
This is the paradox and trial of modernity. As humans reach for godhood, they are devaluing what is human. Omnipotence is in front of us, almost within our reach, Harari says, but below us yawns the abyss of complete nothingness.
[Keep reading. . .]
Illustration 2014 Luna Sea.Medusa Cyborg Vampire from Space. Licensed underCC-BY. Unchanged. via Sketchport.
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The Philosophy of the Coen Brothers – Film School Rejects – Film School Rejects
Posted: at 1:59 am
What are Coen Brothers films all about?
Nihilists. Fuck me. I mean, say what you will about the tenets of National Socialism, Dude at least its an ethos. Walter Sobchak, The Big Lebowski
The solution of the problem of life is seen in the vanishing of this problem. (Is not this the reason why those who have found after a long period of doubt that the meaning of life became clear to them have been unable to say what constituted that meaning?) Ludwig Wittgenstein, Tractatus Logico-Philosophicus
To write about the Coen Brothers is to confront, head on, lifes hardest problem. Im not talking about the problem of film criticism generally, nor of identifying why Joel and Ethan Coen are among our greatest living filmmakers. These problems, though they confront me presently, are not all that hard. But usually, when one studies a filmmaker, there emerges in the work a distinct perspective on life a philosophical point of view, which style and story jointly reveal. And although countless words have been spilled on the philosophy of the Coens films, no one has yet produced a summary that the Brothers themselves would endorse. Themes and motifs recur, but meanings are elusive. The most one can say is that the work is so meticulously well-crafted that it feels meaningful, even as conclusive statements of purpose escape us. Thus in a Coen Brothers film, as in life, were left asking: is all this meaning merely apparent?
Notoriously resistant interview subjects, the Coens have managed to ascend through the ranks of the cinematic canon without ever showing their philosophical hand. Theyve now claimed every accolade: Oscars for Best Picture, Director, Original Screenplay, and Adapted Screenplay; the Palme DOr, Best Director, and Grand Jury Prizes at Cannes; Best Director from the DGA; Original and Adapted Screenplay from the WGA. Their films have inspired multiple books, including one that explicitly claims to deal with their philosophy. But when pressed for insights about their work, they tend to downplay its significance. one that explicitly claims to deal with their philosophy. But when pressed for insights about their work, they tend to downplay its significance. Asked in 1998 about his philosophy of filmmaking, Ethan replied, I dont have one. I wouldnt even know how to begin. Asked in 2001 about his creativity, Joel quipped, I guess it beats throwing trash for a living.
So what are we to make of the fact that these masters of the craft claim, or at least imply, that they have nothing to say? One option is to let the work speak for itself. Beginning with their startlingly assured 1984 debut, Blood Simple, the Coens have produced three decades worth of highly distinctive work. Their films span many genres and tones, yet all retain the clear signature of their makers. That Coen style, such as it is, has more to do with rhythm, tone, and characterization than visual flair. Its a feeling of faint tragedy amid the humor or faint humor amid the tragedy. Consider Anton Chigurhs sardonic use of the word friendo for his future victims in No Country for Old Men, or the Folgers tin used to hold Donnys ashes in The Big Lebowski.
One topic about which the Brothers are forthcoming in interviews is the many influences that feed into their work. Although they dont consider themselves film fanatics of the Tarantino variety, their love of Old Hollywood noir and screwball in particular is everywhere on display. 2003s Intolerable Cruelty is an out-and-out screwball film, while 2000s O Brother, Where Art Thou? takes its title from Sullivans Travels, directed by the great screwball master Preston Sturges. Aided by longtime collaborator Roger Deakins, the Brothers elegantly revived the black-and-white noir in 2001s The Man Who Wasnt There. And just last year, they released Hail, Caesar! a noir-screwball film about Old Hollywood.
Though theyve made many period pieces, the Coens use the past in much the same way as their genre predecessors, as fantasy rather than historical reality. Its not about reminiscence, they have said, because our movies are about the past we have never experienced. Its more about imagination. Such fantasizing makes the problem of meaning all the more vexing because the Coens cant be accused of commenting on a history they never claimed to represent. Hail, Caesar! in particular, was accused of ignoring topics like race and gender in the 1950s altogether a critique that the Brothers rebuffed by claiming this is not how they think of stories. It often seems that the Coens wish their films could be seen in a vacuum, as self-contained pockets of meaning without reference to the larger world.
And yet their two greatest films (at least by award-count) Fargo and No Country for Old Men are also among their most realistic. Both films invite the viewer, in their opening sequences, to regard the films as more than mere stories. Fargo bears an opening placard announcing, This is a True Story a choice the brothers made specifically so that audiences wouldnt see the movie as just an ordinary thriller. And Sheriff Ed Tom Bell in No Country concludes his opening monologue with the evocative phrase, OK, Ill be a part of this world.
No Country, in particular, is worth dwelling on, not only because its a perfect piece of filmmaking, but also because it provides insight into the brothers ambivalence about meaning. Ed Tom Bells speech at the films opening expresses a fear that the Coens seem to share: namely that, if he agrees to engage with the violence and tragedy of the world, it may overcome him. It may force him to say, as he does, I dont know what to make of that. Similarly, it would seem that the more of the real worlds senselessness they allow into their work, the harder it might become for the Coens to make meaning. Such meaning might not be there at all.
Of late, the Coens appear to be rebounding back and forth between addressing and ignoring this problem. No Country was followed by the farcical Burn After Reading. A Serious Man, the Coens most direct treatment of meaninglessness, gave way to True Grit, a downright pious film. And Inside Llewyn Davis, which directly mocks arts pretensions of meaning, was followed by Hail, Caesar!, which embodies that very mockery, by being (seemingly) meaningless itself. If the trend holds, we should expect the Coens next outing to tackle the question of meaning head-on once more, trying again to be a part of this world.
There is wisdom to be found, perhaps unsurprisingly, in The Big Lebowski. Many mistook that films sage ethos of acceptance for nihilism, but the Coens resisted this label. For us, the nihilists are the bad guys, Joel told Michael Ciment and Hubert Niogret in 1998, and if theres a preferred moral position, itd be that of Jeff Bridges, though its difficult to define! Though theyve grown to doubt it in recent films, the Dudes fluid perseverance his abidance, as it were might be a solution to the specter of nihilism that haunts the Coens. Not unlike Marge Gundersons down-home goodness in Fargo, it does not oblige one to make sense of the horrors of the world only to persist in being good despite them.
Jeff Bridges summarized it well: I think [The Big Lebowski]s a film about grace, how amazing it is that were all allowed to stay alive on this speck hurled out into space, being as screwed up as we all are. Like, Fargo had a moral resonance to it. This one, I think, does as well. It may not be apparent to most people at first. But working in it, kind of bathing in this thing, it rang for me. Its not a real clear thing that you can say, Thats what it means. Its a little different. Perhaps we can say, then, that the Coens philosophy is summarized in the Wittgenstein quote above (Ethan wrote his thesis at Princeton on Wittgenstein). Or, less pretentious, and more concise: the Dude Abides.
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Steve Vizard’s Vigil at Arts Centre Melbourne reveals trauma … – The Age
Posted: at 1:59 am
THEATRE VIGIL Book & Lyrics: Steve Vizard, Music: Joe Chiadamo Arts Centre Melbourne, Until July 8
Eddie Perfect lambasted the lack of support for Australian musicals on social media recently. He was right to be angry. When something as sparkling and original asVigilcomes along (nurtured to fruition by institutions like the Adelaide Cabaret Festival and The Arts Centre) you get a sense of what we're missing out on.
The talent pool underVigilruns deep indeed. It has sprung to life from Steve Vizard's witty character-based comedy, his brisk gift for lyrics and narrative and emotional intelligence; from Joe Chiadamo's melodic songs, which range through terrain as diverse as parody and heartfelt ballad; and the divine Christie Whelan, whose star quality is no secret, but who gets to spread her wings as a performer here embracing a rare chance to make the audience ache with sorrow, as well as cackle with delight.
Careening between hilarity and desolation, this intense one-woman musical compresses a gamut of conflicting emotion into one final evening between mother and daughter.
Whelan plays Liz, a wild child who rocks up to her mum's hospital ward on Christmas eve, after a long stint overseas. She plans to whip out overdue gifts, borrow some money and bugger off again, but the spectre of death intervenes.
As Liz holds vigil over her silent mother, a welter of grievance and memory, love and pain pours out of her. Trauma lurks underneath her rootless hedonism, and fortunately for us, Liz is a whiz at defensive humour giving Whelan an opportunity to showcase sharp comic impersonations, sketch comedy inFast Forwardmode, and musical hijinks, including a scream of a song (a kind of solo duet) where she embodies male and female lust at a suburban barbecue.
Under the laughter, suffering. Whelan is deeply moving when her character's guard drops, and nails Chiadamo's strongest melody, One More Breath, through three clever variations that capture the shock of unexpected grief, regret at time wasted, and resolve to seize the day.
A few weak spots exist moments where the comedy is slightly overstretched, one confessional number where I heard an uglier, more bitter song in my head than what Whelan performed butVigilremains a captivating new musical.
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With brilliant composition, writing, acting and vocals, with direction and design that augment intimacy at every point, the show makes you want to laugh and weep, sometimes both at once. A must-see for music theatre fans, and anyone who has ever lost a loved one will well up at the labile emotional odyssey it portrays.
This review was written from a preview.
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Australia’s most religious and non-religious postcodes based on who answered the Census question regarding religion – NEWS.com.au
Posted: at 1:58 am
The latest Census release show those ticking "no religion" rose to 29.6 per cent, and for the first time in Australia's history it has overtaken Catholics. So are we becoming a nation of non-believers?
New South Wales has our most religious suburb, according to Census 2016 data.
AUSTRALIAS most religious and non-religious postcodes have been revealed in the latest Census data by the Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS).
Ninety-three per cent of residents in the New South Wales postcode 2190, which encompasses the suburbs Greenacre and Chullora, in Sydneys south-west,stated they had a religious, secular or other spiritual belief, according to information consultants at the ABS.
The area has been identified as Australias most religious.
Nearly half (41.4 per cent) of the population claimed a religious affiliation to Islam and the same percentage spoke Arabic, while 23.1 per cent identified as Catholic.
Only 6.1 per cent stated they had no religion.
Also included were 11 people (0.04 per cent) who said they had a secular belief which the ABS said could include agnosticism, atheism, humanism, rationalism and others not classified.
According to Census stats, the most common ancestry of residents in the area was Lebanese (31.1 per cent), followed by Australian (10.1 per cent) and English (7.1 per cent).
While 53.3 per cent of residents were born in Australia, 68.6 per cent had both parents born overseas, with the highest percentage coming from Lebanon.
The figures were based on postal areas with at least 100 usual residents, and based on persons who answered the question regarding religion (which is not compulsory).
Census stats reveal an insight into Australias most religious postcode.Source:Supplied
A whopping 72.7 per cent of households spoke a language other than English, while the median age was 33 years old. Children aged 0-14 made up almost a quarter of the population. (24.1 per cent).
One of the suburbs, Greenacre, is home to Australias largest Islamic School, the Malek Fahd Islamic School, which is fighting to keep its federal government funding.
According to The Conversation, Muslims were almost entirely absent from many neighbourhoods and suburbs, and there were only a few (located in Melbourne and Sydney) where they made up more than 50 per cent of the population. This includes the neighbouring suburb of Lakemba.
Despite fears Australia is becoming a Muslim country, those ticking no religion in the Census has now overtaken the number of Catholics.
Its the first time in Australias history the number of people who claim no religion has overtaken Catholics, although the number of Christians in total still made up 51 per cent of the population.
The least religious suburb according to the ABS is found on the other side of the country, in a small, sleepy town in Western Australia with the postcode 6705, where 66.5 per cent of the population in Gascoyne Junction stated that they had no religion.
The area includes heritage-listed sites from early colonial Australian days and has a high proportion of indigenous people.
More than half (58.4 per cent) of the 278 people who live in the area, identified as Aboriginal or Torres Strait Islander.
Other suburbs that have been identified as particularly unholy include Melbournes terrace-lined North Fitzroy, while Fairfax is reporting Erskineville in Sydneys inner-west was now officially Australias most ungodly suburb.
Nationally, the latest Census drop showed those ticking no religion rose from 22.6 per cent to 29.6 per cent nearly double the 16 per cent in 2001.
Meanwhile, those identifying as Catholic dropped from 25.3 per cent to 22.6 per cent.
The number of Christians in total still made up 51 per cent of the population, but this is much less than the 88 per cent in 1966 and 74 per cent in 1991.
Islam (2.6 per cent) and Buddhism (2.4 per cent) were the next most common religions reported.
Those who did not answer the religion question, which is a non-compulsory question in the Census, was 9.6 per cent, up slightly from 9.2 per cent in 2011.
We remain a predominantly English speaking country, with 72.7 per cent of people reporting they speak only English at home. Tasmania had the highest rate of people speaking only English at home with 88 per cent, while the Northern Territory had the lowest rate at 58 per cent.
An earlier release of Census data in April showed the typical Australian was now a 38-year-old married woman with two children.
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Valentino Couture Fall 2017 – WWD
Posted: at 1:58 am
Years ago, John Fairchild had a name for the type of fashion editor who early on embraced the shroudlike avant-garde side of the Eighties, and who appeared to fall into a state of rapture at shows she loved. That name: fashion nun. It wasnt a compliment.
Would that Mr. Fairchild were around today, to sit down with Valentinos Pierpaolo Piccioliover a good bottle of red andengage in some serious guy talk about fashion. Perhaps the younger might convince the older that theres nothing wrong with a little fashion religion.
Hed at least make an impressive case.Piccioli believes genuinely in the power of fashion, couture in particular, to elevate the spirit. Some may find that thought itself profane. At a preview, he explained his premise. Inthis moment, everything is digital and about rationalism, Piccioli said. I think all of us are looking for something more spiritual, beyond reality. This is really close to the idea of couture because every aspect of the sacred is expressed by rituals, and couture is made by rituals. Sacred is what is beyond reality, what you dont see but you just feel, you just perceive. What makes couture special, unique and magical is what you dont see all the ritual to arrive at the piece.
Piccioli called his fall collection a reflection about the sacred. He was inspired by ecclesiastical garments and the religious portraits of 17th-century painter Francisco de Zurbarn, but also by the prettiest of pagan deities, Venus.
The results were Heaven-sent. That Piccioli turns out a spectacular evening gown is hardly a surprise. His Valentino has made covered-up evening dressing not only alluring, but also cool, no small feat in this era of the social media sexpot on endless display. What intrigues now and whats essential for the brand is the way hes advancing the look. For fall, he scaled back significantly on the decorative flourish so expected in couture, to work more with an iconoclastic minimalism based on dramatic volumes that fall away from the body, some with that monastic aura. Yet hes no religious zealot; Piccioli also showed a number of intricately collaged gowns and a pair of billowing beauties one pink, one red to befit the chicest of storybook heroines.
Still, the collections bigger news was its daywear, cut with all of the obsessive perfection inherent in couture, but not a trace of madame attitude. Rather, Piccioli took a separates approach, layering on piece after piece: long unfettered coats or more statement-y capes over vests over dresses over shirts over pants, all in slightly dissonant colors. Will the couture client go for it? Lets hope; lets pray. No, lets not pray. Theyre fabulous, but as Mr. Fairchild would say, theyre only clothes.
More From ParisHaute CoutureWeek Fall 2017:
Chanel Couture Fall 2017:Karl Lagerfeld focused on an essential tenet shared by the Eiffel Tower and couture itself: perfection of structure.
Backstage at Christian Dior Couture Fall 2017:Peter Philips and Guido Palau fashioned the beauty look of the show.
Atelier Versace Couture Fall 2017:The collection blended Baroque references and rock n roll with a soupon of 3-D printing.
Iris van Herpen Couture Fall 2017:For her 10th anniversary show, the designer sent out aquatic-themed creations to a performance by underwater group Between Music.
Paris Couture Gains Extra Day as Confidence Returns: Frances Chambre Syndicale de laHaute Couturehas welcomed five brands as guest members on this seasons schedule.
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