The pandemic hasnt been easy for the precarious profession of travel writing. But as the world slowly loosens its shackles after 20 months of canceled contracts and frustrating false-starts, Ive made it my job as Lonely Planet writer to get back on the road in search of spontaneity, inspiration and a good story. My latest stop: the Dominican Republic.
My choice of destination wasnt all chance and serendipity. Throughout the course of the pandemic the Dominican Republic (DR), along with Mexico, has been one of least restrictive nations in the world for travelers to enter and exit. However, unlike Mexico where total deaths are edging toward 300,000, the Dominican Republic has navigated the vicissitudes of COVID-19 relatively smoothly. Entry requirements are relatively straightforward, in-country rules sensible without being over-zealous and, at the time of travel, active cases were low. However, as we know by now the coronavirus situation can change very quickly, and the Pan-American Health Organization (PAHO) announced that new COVID-19 cases in the Dominican Republic has increased by over 40% in recent weeks.
As a travel writer, the Dominican Republic tempted me with plenty of things to write about. In the lead up to the COP26 climate summit in Glasgow, I was looking for interesting eco-projects to lure travelers out of the mega-resorts. Fortuitously, the north coast of the possessed a slew of innovative ventures. But first I had more prosaic matters to deal with.
If theres one thing Ive learned about travel in the time of coronavirus, its check, double-check, and check again. Rules change frequently, cases can surge and nuances differ from country to country. Back in the good old days, all you needed to go on holiday was a passport and a boarding pass. In 2021, rule-weary travelers must decipher complex paperwork, expensive COVID tests, and long-winded travel apps to allow them to get home.
Employing an attention to detail thats second nature to a guidebook writer, I prepped for my DR trip from my home in Canada by phoning the Dominican Embassy in Ottawa, the Dominican tourist board in Toronto, and the perennially overwhelmed offices of Air Canada to ensure I hadnt missed any hidden pitfalls.
With no pre-trip COVID test necessary for residents of Canada, the paperwork ultimately came down to just two forms: a copy of a Dominican eticket (available online) to get me through customs in the DR, and printed proof that I had been fully vaccinated to show to my Canadian airline before boarding the plane.
Then there was the small matter of insurance. Some holiday companies include special COVID insurance in their packages. However, as I was traveling independently, I paid C$40 for trip interruption on top of my personal policy in case I had to quarantine in the destination.
Having flown in the early days of the pandemic on planes that were three-quarters empty, I was surprised to find that both my Vancouver-Montreal and Montreal-Puerto Plata flights were almost full. But with the government of Canada mandating that all air passengers be masked and fully vaccinated, I shrugged off any lingering paranoia as our Airbus 321 cruised smoothly above the US eastern seaboard before descending into Gregorio Lupern International Airport on the DRs north coast. Dominican customs was a formality. With my passport stamped and bags scanned, I dashed eagerly into the arrivals hall where cheering airport staff danced dexterously to a merengue backbeat. After nearly two years with practically no tourists, they were obviously pleased to see us.
Id organized a taxi for the 20-minute ride to my pre-booked accommodation at the Tubagua Eco-lodge, a rustic collection of chalets and huts perched on the cusp of the Septentrional Mountains.
Built out of palm thatch and local wood in the style of an indigenous village, the lodge is renowned for its spectacular home-cooked food and equally spectacular views. With just eight simple rooms that utilize mountain breezes rather than air-con, masks were barely necessary, especially as there were only two other guests: a Swiss couple touring the country in a rental car.
Lodge owner, Tim Hall generously hooked me up with a local guide called Juann who ferried me around a network of nascent community tourism projects on the back of his motorbike. Riding pillion like Jack Nicholson in Easy Rider along the undulating Ruta Panormica, I dropped into a rehabilitated coffee plantation, a tiny shovel-and-pick amber mine, and a dusty roadside workshop where an ingenious Dominican seor was turning old car tires into artistic flower baskets.
Get more travel inspiration, tips and exclusive offers sent straight to your inbox with our weekly newsletter.
After Tubagua I gravitated toward the coast where Id reserved cheap lodgings in the easygoing kite-surfing mecca of Cabarete. Staying in the proximity of a town for the first time meant I had to keep my mask closer to hand.
In the DR, face-masks are mandatory in shops and public buildings. However, as life in the Caribbean is lived mostly outside, regulations arent always religiously enforced. On one occasion I was asked to show my proof of vaccination to enter a bank but, more commonly, I was allowed to sit in semi-deserted alfresco restaurants where the nearest customer sat several tables away.
I spent my final four days visiting an innovative aquaponics farm, exploring Cabaretes abundant network of caves, and watching masterful kite-surfers fly gracefully over white-capped waves. While tourists are trickling back to the DR post-Covid, theres no deluge as yet. Crowds remain thin and the resulting tranquility is therapeutic.
One of the nagging irritations of pandemic travel is the way stringent re-entry regulations eat into your vacation time. Some countries only require easy-to-procure rapid antigen tests to get home but, as a resident of Canada, I had to cough up for a slower, more expensive PCR test. As I wasnt staying in a resort (which often organize tests onsite), I had to sort out the logistics myself.
Keen to lighten the bureaucracy for tourists, the Dominican Republic has made COVID testing relatively easy. The nearest clinic to my Cabarete lodging was 10km away in Sosa and offered tests for US$72 with results back in 24 hours. The only caveatI had to return to the clinic the following day to pick them up.
It wasnt as bad as it sounded. Though with less to offer than Cabarete, Sosa has a lovely beach and an interesting history: it was founded by Jewish refugees on the run from the Nazis in 1940. A small museum and synagogue testify their fascinating story.
The Dominican Republic proved to be the most easygoing and bureaucracy-free of the five countries Ive visited since the world reopened. Flying out of Gregorio Lupern airport the next day, I arrived carrying an armful of admin: negative PCR test, proof of vaccination certificate, DR exit eticket, ArriveCAN app (required to get back into Canada), passport, boarding pass and Canadian residence card. Notwithstanding, after navigating an obstacle course of security checks and a chorus of cheery hasta luegos, I found myself sitting in the departure lounge nursing a Bohemia beer and reflecting fondly on a constructive trip.
The best of Caribbean islands
More:
- Royal Caribbean and Carnival Cruise ships leave from Baltimore for the first time since the collapse of the Key Bridge - Yahoo! Voices - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Man with seizure on Royal Caribbean cruise had to pay $2500 bill during evacuation - The Independent - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Tropical threat may arise in Caribbean days after hurricane season begins - AOL - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- What you need to know about record-breaking heat in the Atlantic Yale Climate Connections - Yale Climate Connections - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- 13 Best Jack Sparrow Quotes in 'Pirates of the Caribbean,' Ranked - Collider - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- 8 Reasons Why Margot Robbie's Pirates Of The Caribbean Spinoff Is More Exciting Than POTC 6 - Screen Rant - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- PAHO urges countries to strengthen dengue prevention in Central America, Mexico and the Caribbean - Pan American Health Organization - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Disney's Pirates of the Caribbean Ride SURPRISED Us in Magic Kingdom See WHY! - AllEars.Net - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- US issues severe 'Do not travel' warning for this Caribbean country - New York Post - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- EU Commissioner Urpilainen Meets With Caribbean Counterparts At SIDS Conference in Antigua & Barbuda - EEAS - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Sailing the Seas of Success - FX Empire - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Sharp Dragon Expands Towards Africa and The Caribbean - Check Point Research - Check Point Research - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Heres What It's Like to Travel on Royal Caribbean's Icon of the Seas - Remezcla - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - Gwinnettdailypost.com - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- American company tells Mexico president that his $385m offer to buy its Caribbean property for ecotourism ... - Fortune - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Caribbean foods and culture highlighted at International Food Festival in Mount Vernon - News 12 Westchester - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- 7 Hidden Gem Islands In The Caribbean Perfect For Retirement - TheTravel - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - mycouriertribune.com - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Caribbean Heritage Month events hosted by PGParks & Recs - WUSA9.com - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Secrets of sargassum: Scientists advance knowledge of seaweed causing chaos in the Caribbean and West Africa - Phys.org - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - Rockdale Newton Citizen - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Icon of the Seas: Exploring private islands, swim up bars and Broadway shows on Royal Caribbean's newest cruise ship - HELLO! - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - Napoleon Northwest Signal - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Ben Bouldin to head of Royal Caribbean in China - - Cruise Adviser - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - Lenoir News-Topic - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed clogging up Caribbean 'could be used to produce sustainable goods' - Islander News.com - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - The Elkhart Truth - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - Herald Palladium - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Seaweed plaguing the Caribbean could become eco-friendly products - The Bryan Times - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Pirates Of The Caribbean Changed Completely Because Of Johnny Depp - Giant Freakin Robot - May 29th, 2024 [May 29th, 2024]
- Johnny Depp's Potential Return In Pirates Of The Caribbean Reboot Addressed By Producer - Screen Rant - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Johnny Depp Will Return as Jack Sparrow if Pirates of the Caribbean Producer Gets His Way - MovieWeb - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Virgin Voyages Expands Caribbean Summer Season Pass - Cruise Industry News - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Pirates of the Caribbean Producer Interested in Bringing Johnny Depp Back, "We'll See What Happens" - ComicBook.com - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Johnny Depp Spotted on Disney Set, 'Pirates of the Caribbean 6' Confirmed - Inside the Magic - Inside the Magic - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Can the circular economy help the Caribbean win its war against waste? - Mongabay.com - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Heat Stress Is Hitting Caribbean Reefs Earlier Than Ever This Year - The New York Times - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- CTO says Caribbean Week in NYC 'set to sparkle' Caribbean Life - Caribbean Life - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Researchers propose building US-Caribbean 'super grid' to offset solar energy losses during tropical storms: 'Need to ... - The Cool Down - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Banyan Tree is making its first foray into the Caribbean market. - Breaking Travel News - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Caribbean Hot in 2024 Tourism Surge - Travel And Tour World - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Afro Caribbean Cultural Center on the move - Waterbury Republican American - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Pirates of the Caribbean franchise without Jack Sparrow? Read on - Deccan Chronicle - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Investing in gender equality in Latin America and the Caribbean for a better world - Comisin Econmica para Amrica Latina y el Caribe - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Pirates of the Caribbean Producer Confirms Two New Movies Are Now in Development - MovieWeb - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Patricia Affonso-Dass: Leading The Way In Caribbean Hospitality - Travel And Tour World - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- I hope you like Pirates of the Caribbean, because both a reboot and that thought-to-be-dead Margot Robbie movie are ... - VG247 - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Caribbean communicators and health promoters participate in PAHO-led workshop on Risk Communications and ... - Pan American Health Organization - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- American Airlines Boosts Service to Caribbean Destinations for Winter Travel - Business Traveler USA - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Disney Still Really Wants to Make That Margot Robbie Pirates of the Caribbean Movie, Jerry Bruckheimer Says - IGN - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Bubba-Doo's takes on the Caribbean Part 2 Baptist News Global - Baptist News Global - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Cruise ops returning to Baltimore after temporary move to Norfolk - 13newsnow.com WVEC - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- New Pirates of the Caribbean movies unlikely to feature Johnny Depp as lead - Business Insider India - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Tourism's contribution to Caribbean GDP expected to rise | News - Breaking Travel News - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- 'Pirates of the Caribbean: Tides of War' Adds New Tacticians with Its 7th Anniversary Update TouchArcade - Touch Arcade - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Caribbean Renewable Energy Forum Awards ELM-Solar Island Energy Project as Microgrid of the Year - Microgrid Knowledge - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Caribbean Hotel & Tourism Association Unveils Bold Rebranding, Ushering In New Era For Caribbean Hospitality - Travel And Tour World - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Icon of the Seas by Wilson Butler Architects and Royal Caribbean is the world's largest cruise ship - The Architect's Newspaper - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Lrssen superyacht Lady Lara in the Caribbean - SuperYacht Times - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- Climate Crisis Costs: Caribbean Nations Demand Global Financial System Reforms - Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting - May 21st, 2024 [May 21st, 2024]
- New satellite imagery reveals expanse of oil spill in Caribbean - Fox Weather - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Oil spill off Trinidad and Tobago blackens Caribbean beaches - The Washington Post - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Passenger dies aboard 9-month Royal Caribbean cruise around the world - NBC News - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Group Signs with Chantiers For Next Oasis Class Ship - Cruise Industry News - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Perfect Day at CocoCay new adult-only area: review - Business Insider - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Tourists Warned To Protect Their Passports As Thefts In The Mexican Caribbean On The Rise - The Cancun Sun - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Antigua: Elderly man charged with second homicide of 2024 | Loop Caribbean News - Loop News Caribbean - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- With Jamaica and Bahamas under travel advisories, which Caribbean islands are safe to book your next vacation? - SILive.com - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Gives Unprecedented Choice on Ultimate World Cruise - Cruise Hive - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Disney's Extensive Pirates of the Caribbean Change Officially Closes Attraction - Inside the Magic - Inside the Magic - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean's new Icon of the Seas: What it's like to stay on the largest cruise ship in the world - CNA: Breaking News, Singapore News, World and... - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- At Grenada's Spice Island Beach Resort, the Art of the Luxury All-Inclusive - Caribbean Journal - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Director Malaury Eloi-Paisley on Her Debut Documentary 'L'Homme Vertige,' and the Unvarnished Reality of ... - Yahoo Entertainment - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- See Royal Caribbean's newest giant cruise ship, Utopia of the Seas - Business Insider - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Preparing for Development of the Blue Economy in the U.S. Caribbean - NOAA Fisheries - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Latin America & The Caribbean Weekly Situation Update as of 16 February 2024 - Haiti - ReliefWeb - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Europe and Latin America & the Caribbean step up cooperation on cybersecurity - EEAS - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Royal Caribbean Confirms 9-Month Cruise Will Not Go Through Red Sea and Suez Canal Due to Middle East Unrest - PEOPLE - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Where is Death in Paradise set? The Caribbean island behind the BBC show - The Independent - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]
- Trinidad and Tobago: overturned barge leaks oil into Caribbean Sea video report - The Guardian - February 18th, 2024 [February 18th, 2024]