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Monthly Archives: July 2020
The Death of Fashion Shows? Not So Fast. | Tim’s Take | BoF – The Business of Fashion
Posted: July 5, 2020 at 10:14 am
LONDON, United Kingdom In my 35-year experience of fashion, The Show has always been the thing. Every-thing, in fact, from a small but perfectly formed moment to a sweeping spectacle for the ages. It was my outsiders way in, equal parts invitation, inspiration and celebration. It was also the most vital distillation of a designers point of view, of the story of a season, of fashions every-so-often collision with the zeitgeist.
But despite the announcement of European fashion weeks this September, The Show, at least for the moment and as I have known and loved it, is dead, one more casualty of the pandemic that promises chaos-cum-change to established orders everywhere. A growing constituency will not mourn it. In a world confronted by social, economic, health and climate crises, The Show has been pilloried as another drain on precious resources, a curio, an irrelevance even. Holding that thought, lockdown has left me who, through a happy accident rather than grand design, has spent more than half his life sitting through thousands upon thousands of shows, filming some, writing about others to revel in my own irrelevance. And in that twilight state, Ive been brooding on my own personal history with The Show. All forms of human life were there: the beautiful, the hideous, the reactionary, the revolutionary, the assured, the ambiguous, the ass-paralysing.
Diana Vreeland, the enduring template of the fashion editor, memorably wrote about a Balenciaga presentation in the early 60s where everyone was going up in foam and thunder. Twenty-five years later, I saw Vreeland at a Geoffrey Beene show in the Plaza Hotel in New York. If it wasnt exactly foam and thunder, it was at least a cloudburst of emotion that swept the audience. The first time I saw tears, and I marvelled at such a reaction. Eventually, I too would feel similarly pricked, when the sound and vision would nudge me into overload, like the climax of a favourite film, or the last plangent chords of the soundtrack of my life.
I wanted to revisit these moments, review them anew, so thats what Im going to do over the next while, one every Friday, when I would once have been sitting by runways in the real world. I thought Id start at the beginning, with Yves Saint Laurents haute couture collection for Spring 1988, the first show I ever covered in Paris. Then I think I will follow a pretty random and entirely personal selection, some chosen because they have a deep and meaningful social resonance (a Gaultier, a McQueen, a Rick Owens), others because they evoke a particularly happy memory (Galliano, say, or Mugler, or Dries Van Noten). Its an evolutionary spectrum. Hard to fathom now that youd once wait months to see any kind of visual record of the season youd just sat through, and then it would be a page of thumbnails in one of those hefty collezione things out of Italy. A show would have to live in memory (or in the sketches or scribbles in a notebook) in a way that has since been thoroughly supplanted by digitalis, and the overwhelming demands of commerce and as-it-happens content creation.
A fashion show can be something so profoundly ceremonial that it attains the peculiar power of an occult ritual.
I can appreciate why there are people who feel the arc has been devolutionary, rather than evolutionary, but Im not one of those used-to-be-better types. True, the question Ive been asked more than any other is how Ive managed to sustain my interest over such a long stretch of time. Also true, fashion isnt as infinite as quantum physics. Still, I have hardly ever been bored by The Show: tested, yes, but in half an hour, Ill be somewhere else, and a world away. I cant make art or movies or music and Im fascinated by people who can, even when what they produce is dreadful. Same with fashion. Theyre all mysteries Ive never felt compelled to solve. Who needs quantum physics when infinite patience is your most virtuous self?
So, I come to praise The Show, not to bury it. Anyway, rumours of its death are clearly exaggerated. The coming weeks will see a wave of digital simulacra, and there is hubbub about physical get-togethers in September, Second Wave willing. So, consider present circumstances a state of suspended animation, like a beauty thats sleeping. I do know this: when it wakes, it will be a very different creature. For instance, my friend Jamie in New York is working with a company called Sensorium, who are trying to perfect the virtual fashion show with a multi-pronged approach that embraces traditional video and stills, 3D motion capture and 3D photogrammetry. They talk about transcending the physical runway I guess they have to, dont they? but intriguingly, they also emphasise presence, which I take to mean the feeling of actually being somewhere. VRs genuine ability to embed you in an alternate reality was devastatingly brought home to me by Alejandro Gonzlez Irritus Carne y Arena, a short film following a group of migrants as they cross the Mexican border into the US. The sensation of sheer physical terror was jolting.
The idea of bringing a similarly potent degree of immersive emotional engagement to bear on a VR alternative to the familiar show format obviously suggests all sorts of dazzling technical possibilities. But, in my role as booster or apologist or nostalgist, Ill say that the primal element that connects the wealth of shows Ive seen over the years is the focused physicality of an audience of people gathered together in a theatre, a museum, a ballroom, a garden, an underground carpark, an abandoned coal mine or a cave to take part in something so profoundly ceremonial that it can, at its pinnacle, attain the peculiar power of an occult ritual. And you dont need a budget of millions to spark this effect. Two words: Helmut Lang. I chose his last ever show because, though no one knew it at the time, it had the wonderful feeling of heading somewhere new. Which is exactly what Helmut did, though he left fashion behind to do it. So, hindsight inevitably colours my re-visit.
I did toy with the idea of projecting myself back into the past, into the purity of seeing the thing for the first time, but that required more of a performance than Im capable of, to un-see everything thats happened since. Besides, hindsight is hella fun. Ive always wanted to know what happened next: read the last page, skip to the last episode, and then track back, fore-armed with the future. But what does happen next for The Show? By the time we can get bums on seats again, will fashion have ceremonialised another way to present itself? Or to inject a pragmatic note of the utilitarian to generate that all-important content? After all, there is an industry that needs servicing.
Time will tell. For the moment, Im just going to have to poke around in this grab-bag of golden oldies and maybe someone else will winkle out ways in which the past can seed a glorious future. Im only happy and grateful I was there to see it.
Click here to read Tim Blanks' first review in the TopFashion Shows of All Time series.
Related Articles:
The End of the (Fashion) World as We Know It
A Year Without Fashion Shows
Alex de Betak on Why Fashion Shows Must Change
Who Will Win the Digital Fashion Week Battle?
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The Death of Fashion Shows? Not So Fast. | Tim's Take | BoF - The Business of Fashion
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U of T and Hebrew University of Jerusalem launch research and innovation partnership – News@UofT
Posted: at 10:14 am
How did environmental conditions and climate change influence early human evolution? Can protein engineering be harnessed to block the virus that causes COVID-19? How do quantum mechanics affect biological functions, and how do our memory and learning work on a cellular level in the brain?
These are some of the big questions that will be explored by researchers at the University of Toronto and the Hebrew University of Jerusalem (HUJI) as part of a new strategic partnership that will allow faculty and students from the two institutions to combine resources to carry out high-impact research.
Each year, the University of Toronto Hebrew University of Jerusalem Research and Innovation Alliance will select projects to receive funding of $150,000 a year for up to four years, with each research group comprising faculty drawn from both universities and covering a range of disciplines. The alliance will also occasionally provide one-time seed funding to help get promising projects off the ground.
Launched with endowed funding of $5.9 million from the Canadian Friends of Hebrew University and the family of Roz and Ralph Halbert, the alliance also aims to eventually construct an innovation pipeline between U of T and HUJI to connect the entrepreneurship ecosystems in Toronto and Jerusalem and provide student entrepreneurs with exposure to each others universities and markets.
[HUJIs] mandate with respect to research is very closely aligned to U of Ts in terms of leading the world in a variety of areas, and thats always the kind of partner were looking for, said Alex Mihailidis, U of Ts associate vice-president of international partnerships and a professor in the Faculty of Medicine's department of occupational science and occupational therapy, as well as the Institute of Biomaterials and Biomedical Engineering.
We both recognize that international collaborations strengthen the research within each university, and thats why were excited to partner with them.
He added that the timing of the partnership speaks to U of Ts commitment to forge ahead with research partnerships despite the challenges of working and collaborating amid the pandemic.
From an international partnerships perspective, its business as usual, said Mihailidis, who is also cross-appointed to the department of computer science in the Faculty of Arts & Science. Weve not shut anything down and weve not stopped collaborations. Were going full-speed ahead its looking a bit different, but we are still moving ahead both with existing and new partners.
Both researchersdeveloped an interest in the Kalahari Chazan as an archeologist analyzing early evidence of human activity and Matmon as a geologist carrying out dating techniques to study the evolution of the landscape and theyre now looking to combine their perspectives.
The next phase of work with this funding is to expand Aris geological work, particularly looking for evidence of wet environments, so we can try and understand when there was a shift to modern arid conditions, said Chazan. At the same time, Ill be working in the town of Kathu in South Africa, which is a major mining area today, and were looking at some very large sites and trying to understand what the conditions were when this place supported large groups of people.
So its a really new area of study that combines geological perspectives on how the landscape and hydrology evolved with an archeological perspective which is asking in more narrowly focused locations what the human behaviour was and what was drawing people to these sites.
Oron Shagrir, vice-president for international affairs at HUJI, said the partnership brings together the two leading universities in Israel and Canada, and that the call for research proposals resulted in several exciting submissions.
In these challenging and unprecedented times for societies and universities alike, international partnerships are an invaluable source of support and inspiration, said Shagrir, a professor of philosophy and cognitive science. They are not only an important asset and tool in advancing universities on all levels, but also serve as a valuable platform to promote and support collaborative research projects.
Chazan points to his project as an example of how the two universities can combine their respective strengths.
At U of T, were strong in terms of field archeology and geophysics, he said. Hebrew University is particularly strong in looking at the evolution of landforms over the period of the last two to five million years ... [and] that requires some very specialized labs.
Among the labs that Chazan and his students will have access to is a high-tech facility that blocks out any modern magnetic signals to precisely study fluctuations in the earths magnetic field. Having access to that is a major asset for the project and for our students, who get to learn how to operate in that kind of system, said Chazan.
Meanwhile, Sachdev Sidhu, a professor appointed to U of Ts Donnelly Centre for Cellular and Biomolecular Research, the department of molecular genetics and the Institute of Biomaterials and Biomedical Engineering, will be working with Professor Julia Shifman of HUJIs Alexander Silberman Institute of Life Science to study how the fast-growing fields of protein engineering and design can be leveraged to develop treatments for diseases, including COVID-19.
Their project will use insights gained from past outbreaks of coronaviruses to understand the functions of the proteins that power SARS-CoV-2 the virus that causes COVID-19 and to develop molecules with the potential to disarm the virus and pave the way to a potential cure.
Additionally, the U of T HUJI Research and Innovation Alliance is providing $5,000 in seed funding to two projects.
The first will see Professor Dvira Segal of U of Ts departments of chemistry and physics and Professor Roi Baer of HUJIs Fritz Haber Research Center for Molecular Dynamics and Institute of Chemistry explore the role of quantum processes in natural and engineered quantum systems.
The second aims to better understand how the brain acquires and stores information in order to help prevent and treat debilitating memory and learning disorders. The principal investigators are Associate Professors Sheena Josselyn and Paul Frankland of the department of physiology in U of Ts Faculty of Medicine, Professor Melanie Woodin of the department of cell and systems biology and HUJI scholars Adi Mizrahi, Ami Citri and Inbal Goshen.
Ronald Appleby, a U of T alumnus and campaign chair at the Canadian Friends of Hebrew University, said the research efforts made possible by the partnership speak to the two universities shared commitment to advancing interdisciplinary teams of researchers and students working on translational research, bolstered by mutual respect and friendship.
The attention paid to research in engineering and medicine, the sciences, the social sciences, humanities, and law reflects our mutual interest in creating novel solutions for some of the most pressing current issues, Appleby said.
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OBR Newswire 6/29: Hedonism and Embarrassment – 247Sports
Posted: at 10:13 am
'); } Manage Harrison Bryant (Photo: Trevor Ruszkowski, USA TODAY Sports)
Its been beautiful over the last 24 hours in Cleveland, and everyone has been out enjoying the great weather. So much so that most forgot to try to create Browns articles for us to read. The hedonism!The selfishness!
Still, there were some sites active yesterday, as a number of them discovered the Johnny Manziel article we linked yesterday in the Newswire. Recaps of that appear today, along with a recap of yet another embarrassing episode in recent Cleveland Browns memory.
Heres the newswire
FROM THE OBR
Grant Delpit, Jacob Phillips on how LSU prepared them for Browns
Rookie Film Review: Sheldrick Redwine Gained Valuable Experience
Highlights from Ask the Insiders: 6/28
OBR Newswire 6/28: Tomfoolery and Tragedy
TOP TE STARTS WELL DOWN DEPTH CHART
Cleveland.com: How Browns tight end Harrison Bryant went from small-school lineman to the countrys best tight endBryant was coming off a junior year in which he caught 45 passes for 662 yards in a run-heavy offense featuring current Bills running back Devin Singletary and Steelers running back Kerrith Whyte. Chris Robison, the teams quarterback, was a freshman. Jovon Durante, currently in the CFL, led the team with 65 catches and 873 yards.LINK
ANOTHER EMBARRASSING MEMORY
12Up: Looking Back on How the Browns Botched Negotiations With Mitchell Schwartz in Embarrassing FashionSchwartz is now an All-Pro and a Super Bowl champion for the Kansas City Chiefs. He hit free agency following the 2015 season right when a new group, led by Sashi Brown, took over in the Browns front office. Fans heard all about the analytical approach coming to town and one of the group's first moves was to botch the negotiations with Schwartz, who started all 16 games in his first four NFL seasons with Cleveland.LINK
CATCHING UP WITH JOHNNY MANZIEL
Yahoo: After CFL ban and AAF collapse, Johnny Manziel admits his football career is 'in the past, probably'Manziel was last seen suiting up for the Memphis Express of the Alliance of American Football, where he appeared in two games before the league suddenly folded. Before that, Manziel had been a part of two teams in the Canadian Football League until the league effectively banned him.LINKALSO: PFT | USA Today
SOMEONES GONNA BE DISAPPOINTED
CBS Sports: Ranking Raiders' five biggest 2020 salary cap bargains: Damarious Randall could be a splashy stealThe Las Vegas Raiders are paying big bucks to a few big names as they relocate to Nevada for the 2020 season, but all in all, they're still one of the NFL's youngest rosters and, thus, chockfull of rookie or close-to-minimum deals. So when it comes to identifying the biggest bargains on their roster, there are actually quite a few candidates who fit the bill.LINK
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Not so random acts: Science finds that being kind pays off | News, Sports, Jobs – Morning Journal News
Posted: at 10:13 am
FILE - In this Friday, April 24, 2020 file photo, Dennis Ruhnke holds two of his remaining N-95 masks as he stands with his wife, Sharon at their home near Troy, Kan. Dennis, a retired farmer, shipped one of the couple's five masks left over from his farming days to New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo for use by a doctor or a nurse. (AP Photo/Charlie Riedel)
Acts of kindness may not be that random after all. Science says being kind pays off.
Research shows that acts of kindness make us feel better and healthier. Kindness is also key to how we evolved and survived as a species, scientists say. We are hard-wired to be kind.
Kindness is as bred in our bones as our anger or our lust or our grief or as our desire for revenge, said University of California San Diego psychologist Michael McCullough, author of the forthcoming book Kindness of Strangers. Its also, he said, the main feature we take for granted.
Scientific research is booming into human kindness and what scientists have found so far speaks well of us.
Kindness is much older than religion. It does seem to be universal, said University of Oxford anthropologist Oliver Curry, research director at Kindlab. The basic reason why people are kind is that we are social animals.
We prize kindness over any other value. When psychologists lumped values into ten categories and asked people what was more important, benevolence or kindness, comes out on top, beating hedonism, having an exciting life, creativity, ambition, tradition, security, obedience, seeking social justice and seeking power, said University of London psychologist Anat Bardi, who studies value systems.
Were kind because under the right circumstances we all benefit from kindness, Oxfords Curry said.
When it comes to a species survival kindness pays, friendliness pays, said Duke University evolutionary anthropologist Brian Hare, author of the new book Survival of the Friendliest.
Kindness and cooperation work for many species, whether its bacteria, flowers or our fellow primate bonobos. The more friends you have, the more individuals you help, the more successful you are, Hare said.
For example, Hare, who studies bonobos and other primates, compares aggressive chimpanzees, which attack outsiders, to bonobos where the animals dont kill but help out strangers. Male bonobos are far more successful at mating than their male chimp counterparts, Hare said.
McCullough sees bonobos as more the exceptions. Most animals arent kind or helpful to strangers, just close relatives so in that way it is one of the traits that separate us from other species, he said. And that, he said, is because of the human ability to reason.
Humans realize that theres not much difference between our close relatives and strangers and that someday strangers can help us if we are kind to them, McCullough said.
Reasoning is the secret ingredient, which is why we donate blood when there are disasters and why most industrialized nations spend at least 20% of their money on social programs, such as housing and education, McCullough said.
Dukes Hare also points to mama bears to understand the evolution and biology of kindness and its aggressive nasty flip side. He said studies point to certain areas of the brain, the medial prefrontal cortex, temporal parietal junction and other spots as either activated or dampened by emotional activity. The same places give us the ability to nurture and love, but also dehumanize and exclude, he said.
When mother bears are feeding and nurturing their cubs, these areas in the brain are activated and it allows them to be generous and loving, Hare said. But if someone comes near the mother bear at that time, it sets of the brains threat mechanisms in the same places. The same bear becomes its most aggressive and dangerous.
Hare said he sees this in humans. Some of the same people who are generous to family and close friends, when they feel threatened by outsiders become angrier. He points to the current polarization of the world.
More isolated groups are more likely to be feel threatened by others and they are more likely to morally exclude, dehumanize, Hare said. And that opens the door to cruelty.
But overall our bodies arent just programmed to be nice, they reward us for being kind, scientists said.
Doing kindness makes you happier and being happier makes you do kind acts, said labor economist Richard Layard, who studies happiness at the London School of Economics and wrote the new book Can We Be Happier?
University of California Riverside psychology professor Sonja Lyubomirsky has put that concept to the test in numerous experiments over 20 years and repeatedly found that people feel better when they are kind to others, even more than when they are kind to themselves.
Acts of kindness are very powerful, Lyubomirsky said.
In one experiment, she asked subjects to do an extra three acts of kindness for other people a week and asked a different group to do three acts of self-kindness. They could be small, like opening a door for someone, or big. But the people who were kind to others became happier and felt more connected to the world.
The same occurred with money, using it to help others versus helping yourself. Lyubomirsky said she thinks it is because people spend too much time thinking and worrying about themselves and when they think of others while doing acts of kindness, it redirects them away from their own problems.
Oxfords Curry analyzed peer-reviewed research like Lyubomirskys and found at least 27 studies showing the same thing: Being kind makes people feel better emotionally.
But its not just emotional. Its physical.
Lyubomirsky said a study of people with multiple sclerosis and found they felt better physically when helping others. She also found that in people doing more acts of kindness that the genes that trigger inflammation were turned down more than in people who dont.
And she said in upcoming studies, shes found more antiviral genes in people who performed acts of kindness.
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Daniel Avery Love + Light review: a heartfelt eulogy for the hedonism were missing this summer – NME
Posted: at 10:13 am
This time last year, Daniel Avery would have been preparing for the first of three Glastonbury sets. Across the weekend, the producer brought his stylish techno to a host of revellers, playing the bombastic spectacle that is Pangea (2019s installation included a swinging crane and a whole lot of pyro) and the Beat Hotel closing party. It feels fitting, then, that even though the global pandemic has halted this years pilgrimage to Worthy Farm, Avery has provided us with something to dance to (albeit socially distanced).
Averys third album, Love + Light, dropped with little fanfare. The surprise release follows his 2013 debut, the kinetic Drone Logic, and its 2018 follow-up, the ethereal, ambient-laced Song For Alpha, and was only finished a few weeks ago. With the world going into lockdown and his busy schedule as an in-demand DJ eased up, Avery was able to properly sit down with the demoes hed created over the past few years, and the music rapidly started to take the shape of a full-length album. In a statement Avery explained that the album was a real positive force of energy in his life, and that it almost formed itself in front of him.
Avery wanted to keep that momentum up and instead of pushing it out over the course of a lengthy album campaign, he got it into listeners ears as quickly as possible.
The record is split into two sections the first, filled with pulsating beats and noisy, industrial synths, feels more geared to the club. The euphoric Dusting For Smoke meshes bleeping electronics and purring instrumentals, creating the sort of exhilaration typically experienced at 3AM somewhere in Glastos hedonistic paradise Shangri-La, while acidic Searing Light, Forward Motion draws you in with its dark, relentless nature. There are moments of light, too. Short, airy tracks Depth Wish and Katana offer a moment of respite in-between thrashing techno, with twinkling strings and quiet instrumentals, while Darlinnn is an entrancing siren call to the dance-floor.
The second half offers a stark comparison. Filled with gorgeous, ghostly compositions, its the sound of leaving the dance-floor at 5am, emerging from the dimly lit club and walking home as the sun begins to rise. Its emotive, ambient sounds are light and natural, filled with sprightly rhythms and nimble, skittering beats. After the Fire is weirdly reminiscent of Texan post-rockers Explosions in the Sky (if only they traded in their guitars for synthesisers), while breezy One More Morning combines elements of trance and minimalism with Averys usual sounds.
Love + Light feels like it soundtracks your entire night out from your first steps into the club to arriving home after hours of raving. If you spent the weekend sorely missing the debauchery on offer at Glastonburys late night establishments, you can at least put on Daniel Averys latest album and pretend youre there.
Release date:June 26
Record label: Phantasy
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TO YOUR HEALTH: Keeping it simple in summertime – Herald-Banner
Posted: at 10:13 am
Even with all the world crisis going on, we still have day-to-day worries and annoyances. I love summer, although since Ive been in Texas about the past decade, summers tend to consistently be a lot hotter and run more risk of sun stroke, dehydration and sun burn than in Wisconsin where I came from. Days of 100 degree are rare there, typically an anomaly. So I love being outside.
As many of my readers know, I own a small ranch with goats, bees, pigs and dogs (and chickens before they met their demise by a serial killer named Roxi the guardian dog). I have a lot of things that always need to be done outside.
In Texas, my allergies are severe and year-round. And chiggers! I never ever heard of a chigger until I moved to Texas. Last week I was putting up hot fence for the animals and was under attack. Another thing I deal with is the mosquitos, gnats and ticks. I keep everything in the yard poison-free the best I can and because I have bees, its even more important that whatever products Im using wont harm my bees.
So, how does a hippie like me survive? Well, Im sometimes a hippie and sometimes a bit more bourgeois. So I like modern amenities, like not being eaten alive by insects, not having sunburn, and having a nice looking landscape, finding a balance between being au natural and staying healthy by not having skin damage, allergic reactions and scarred skin.
Here are my tips and Id love to hear what works for you too.
Tea tree oil: kind of stinky but works well if I do get bug bites
Lavender: I spray it around the house, on my bed and on my body to prevent bites
Avon Skin So Soft: a less toxic version of bug repellant. I do, however, use the hardcore stuff if Im going out in the woods.
I wear sunscreen on my face almost every day. I try to find skin friendly versions to use.
I use A LOT of goat milk and beeswax and coconut milk products on my skin to prevent dehydration and heal wounds and smooth skin.
I avoid direct sunlight as much as possible. I hate tan lines and even more I hate the sun damage spots on my skin.
There is a product made of geraniums my mother swears by. I am doing more research on it to see if there is any harm to my bees if I spray it on my snake boots.
Burn citronella.
Im trying to grow lemon grass around the yard. Im really bad about watering things so Ive had to replenish a lot. Im also adding as many herbs around the house as I can, reducing grass in the landscape.
And of course drink a lot of water and if you get hot, get out of the sun.
I try to approach life on my ranch and in my wellness services from a Epicurean philosophy and try to implement things I have to do to align with things I enjoy doing. Such as having a small number of goats enough to clear the brush but not so many I am overwhelmed by caring for them, while running a business and working a full-time job outside of that.
The difference between hedonism, doing things just for pleasure, whereas Epicureanism is finding pleasure in simple living.
Be well!
Liz Jones is the owner of Liz Jones Wellness LLC, in Hunt and Rockwall counties, and is building Jones Wellness Ranch north of Greenville. She can be reached at Liz@LizJones.co or through her website at LizJones.co.
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TO YOUR HEALTH: Keeping it simple in summertime - Herald-Banner
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Rich Kids: A History of Shopping Malls in Tehran review a world of excess – The Guardian
Posted: at 10:13 am
WhatsApp pings with a message from my hairdresser. Duolingo sends a reminder. An email lands from a colleague with an interesting link. This is all while watching Rich Kids: A History of Shopping Malls in Tehran, a show performed not only via a YouTube livestream but also on Instagram. My domestic information overload matches the plays vision of a world of excess.
Since its debut in 2019, the dense and dazzling play by Javaad Alipoor and Kirsty Housley has gained in topicality. It starts with the high-speed crash of a Porsche on the boulevards of Tehran and digs back, with archaeological determination, to the roots of consumer capitalism.
Today, after several weeks of clean air and clear skies, when the BBC has invited everyone from Pope Francis to Andy Murray to Rethink the future, the plays real-life images of bling, hedonism and vacuous consumption stand in starker relief than ever.
Switching from computer monitor to smartphone screen, we scroll through pictures of watches, designer clothes and hotel suites, status symbols for a generation with more wealth than sense of purpose. As chic as they are soulless, these luxuries are a foreboding of the end of days. If this is the apocalypse, say Alipoor and Housley, it wouldnt be the first one. Worlds have ended before, they remind us, pointing to the Aztecs.
With mobile phones in our hands, this world of overconsumption is one we are part of. The script tugs us around the planet to find minerals on one continent, cheap labour on another and us, a willing market, on another still. Then it spins our heads with the thought of geological time; be it in the relatively brief history of human beings or the sedimentary layers of polystyrene cups well leave in our wake.
Just as we go back in time when we scroll through an Instagram feed, so Rich Kids tells its story in reverse, effect before cause, from cocaine-fuelled car crash to revolution, dictatorship, imperialism and pre-historic civilisations.
The field of associations is wide and you have to work hard to keep up with the thread, not least because of the barrage of digital information, but the transition to this format works well. In the theatre, you were conscious of the audience making a sometimes clumsy switch in attention from stage to phone (I remember operating my neighbours as well as my own); here, the visuals are more smoothly integrated, the phone adding depth of field to the 2D images on the computer. Syncing glitches aside, it remains a provocative snapshot of a world speeding towards a cliff edge.
The online version was commissioned by Battersea Arts Centre as part of its Going Digital series, featuring artists who would have been part of the intended Going Global season. Elsewhere, Swimming Pools: Home Movie, a short film by Sleepwalk Collective, looks gorgeous and sounds intriguing, but is more of a hint of things to come than the finished article. The same might be said of Lucy McCormicks Life: Live!, a kind of behind-the-scenes pop video that will mean little to anyone unfamiliar with her funny and frightening narcissist persona. As for The Spirit, a trilogy of physical improvisations by Thibault Delferiere, what might have been mesmerising in the moment demands reserves of patience to watch on film but, in the right mood, has a haunting sense of mans struggle against the odds.
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Rich Kids: A History of Shopping Malls in Tehran review a world of excess - The Guardian
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10 incredible period dramas on Netflix, Amazon Prime Video and Disney+ Hotstar, that are anything but stuffy – VOGUE India
Posted: at 10:13 am
Sumptuous costume dramas can provide a much-needed escape in troubling times, but if youre tired of the usual assortment of airless parlours, manicured lawns and straight-laced suitors, there is an alternative: a subset of films that play with our expectations of the genre. Combining post-punk soundtracks with cross-dressing, lobster racing, colour-blind casting and illicit love affairs, they allow us to view history through a new lens and feel surprisingly modern as a result.
The latest release to join its ranks is The Great, a raucous retelling of Catherine the Greats rise to power starring a radiant Elle Fanning. Ahead of the shows global launch, we shortlist 10 lavish, quick-witted and gloriously unconventional period dramas to watch now.
Marie Antoinette, 2006.
Photography Shutterstock
With shopping montages set to 1980s pop, salacious masked balls and midnight wanders through Versailles, Sofia Coppolas account of the doomed French queens reign is gleefully subversive. As embodied by a fresh-faced Kirsten Dunst, she is an exuberant teenager who seeks solace from her loveless marriage in reckless hedonism. From the candy-coloured Manolo Blahniks to her ruffled silk ballgowns, the film is a visual feast that lets you revel in the pleasures of centuries past.
Available to buy on Amazon Prime Video
Wuthering Heights, 2011.
Photography Shutterstock
Elemental and erotic, Andrea Arnolds reimagining of Emily Bronts 19th-century novel drips with longing. It casts Solomon Glave and James Howson as younger and older incarnations of Heathcliffthe first time the Byronic hero has been played by black actorsand Shannon Beer and Kaya Scodelario as the wild and wayward Cathy. As childhood friends, they run through misty marshes and windswept hilltops together but as adults, their love soon proves to be mutually destructive.
Streaming on YouTube and available to buy on Amazon Prime Video
Belle, 2013.
Photography Alamy
A remarkable true story forms the basis of Amma Asantes swoon-worthy romance. It sees Gugu Mbatha-Raw play Dido Elizabeth Belle, the mixed-race daughter of a Royal Navy captain. Born into slavery in the 18th century, she becomes an heiress who attracts her fair share of suitors, until an idealistic lawyer (Sam Reid) catches her eye. Their relationship marks Didos political awakening, as she considers her position in society against the people of colour who are still treated as property.
Available to buy on Amazon Prime Video
Lady Macbeth, 2016.
Photography Shutterstock
Its impossible to take your eyes off Florence Pugh in William Oldroyds steely Hitchcockian thriller set in 19th-century Northumberland. She plays a teenager who is married off to a tyrannical older man (Paul Hilton) and forbidden from leaving their estate. When he has to travel on business, she gets a taste of freedom, falls for a rugged groomsman (Cosmo Jarvis) and decides to take control of her life. The performances are haunting, the set decoration pristine and the tension rapidly rising.
Available to buy on Amazon Prime Video
Love and Friendship, 2016.
Photography Shutterstock
Jane Austens acerbic wit takes centre stage in Whit Stillmans social satire based on her epistolary novel Lady Susan. It stars Kate Beckinsale as a charismatic widow who is desperate to secure her future, and that of her young daughter (Morfydd Clark), by marriage. She travels from the home of one wealthy friend to another, decked out in plumed hats and silk capes, enchanting everyone she meets and plotting her next move. Expect big laughs, surprise cameos and a scandalous final twist.
Available to buy on Amazon Prime Video
The Favourite, 2018.
Photography Shutterstock
The 18th-century court of Queen Anne (Olivia Colman) provides the setting for Yorgos Lanthimoss absurdist black comedy about power struggles and palace intrigue. Rachel Weisz and Emma Stone are delicious as the two ruthless favourites of the monarch, who try to outmanoeuvre each other at all costs. Their days are taken up with shooting practice, lobster racing, pelting men with fruit and slipping poison into unattended cups of tea. Best of all, there isnt a damsel in distress in sight.
Streaming on Disney+ Hotstar
Colette, 2018
Photography Alamy
Period drama veteran Keira Knightley shines as the titular French novelist in Wash Westmorelands love letter to 19th-century Paris. We follow her as she marries Henry Gauthier-Villars (Dominic West) and writes Claudine lcole, which is published under his name. Its success leads her to rebel, firstly through passionate love affairs with women and then by reclaiming her authorship. Her costumesstraw boaters, puff-sleeved blouses, louche suitingonly add to the films appeal.
Streaming on Netflix
Portrait of a Lady on Fire, 2019.
Courtesy MK2 Films
An artist (Nomie Merlant) arrives on a deserted island in Brittany at the start of Cline Sciammas mesmeric 18th-century love story. She is commissioned to paint the wedding portrait of a troubled young woman (Adle Haenel) who is promised to a Milanese nobleman. Through the course of their sittings, the pair embark on a secret affair and dare to imagine a world where they could be together. The final product is as ravishing as it is revolutionary in its celebration of the female gaze.
Streaming on Amazon Prime Video
Little Women, 2019.
Photography Shutterstock
Female ambition is at the core of Greta Gerwigs retelling of Louisa May Alcotts beloved classic. Saoirse Ronan, Florence Pugh, Emma Watson and Eliza Scanlen are charming as the March sisters, freewheeling teenagers who put on plays, form a secret society and develop a keen understanding of the relationship between art and commerce. As they chase their dreams in New York, Paris and at home in Concord, Massachusetts, they transcend the limits imposed on the women of their era.
Streaming on Netflix
Emma, 2020.
Photography Shutterstock
Snarky retorts, fleeting male nudity and a proposal scene cut short by an unexpected nosebleed are just some of the elements that set Autumn de Wildes Regency romp apart from the average Jane Austen adaptation. Anya Taylor-Joy sizzles as the matchmaker at its centre who is determined to find an eligible bachelor for a new friend (Mia Goth). The suitorsJohnny Flynn, Josh OConnor, Callum Turnerare sultry, the pastel-hued interiors delectable and the costumes ostentatious.
Available to buy on Amazon Prime Video
7 period drama films to watch on Netflix, Amazon Prime Video and Disney+ Hotstar now
11 historical dramas to watch as you wait for The Crown to return
6 intriguing Bollywood movies based on real-life incidents to stream on Netflix, Amazon Prime Video, Disney+ Hotstar and more
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9 things youll only know if you actually love cleaning – BreakingNews.ie
Posted: at 10:13 am
Most people dread the idea of having to drag themselves out of bed early on a Sunday morning to dutifully clean their house, but snapping on a pair of Marigolds and setting to work on a dirty bathtub is like music to your ears.
Cleaning might not be the most glamorous task, but the sense of pride you get from a sparklingly pristine home is worth the hours of squatting, crouching and scrubbing.
Here are a few things all cleaning lovers will be able to relate to
1. You love having people over to your house
It gives you the chance to show off your cleaning and organisation skills.
Getting a compliment from a friend about the exhaustive labelling of your spice rack, or the freshly-washed smell of your guest bedding fills you with a smug sense of satisfaction that lasts all week.
2. You follow all the cleaning influencers
From Mrs Hinch to @the_organised_mum, you picked up some of your best cleaning tricks and tips from the cleanfluencers you follow online.
As much as you love being the one holding the antibacterial spray, you find just as much relaxation in watching others clean their homes too.
3. You cant go to bed leaving dirty dishes in the sink
Even if its late and youre tired, you wont be able to drift off knowing theres a bunch of pans and dishes lying unwashed downstairs. Youve tried to just go with the flow and let your standards slide, but the thought of waking up to a messy kitchen is simply too stressful to handle.
4. You get excited over new cleaning products
No more pretending that you love wild parties and living life on the edge youve full-on embraced the fact youve become a boring adult. Whether its a fancy disinfectant that promises to leave your floors smudge-free or a colourful cleaning paste that gets tough grease out fast, theres nothing quite like treating yourself to a new set of products at the supermarket.
5. Everything in your home has a place
You cant handle the idea of cramming open shelves full of random books, candles and letters, or those trendy trinket dishes that always end up overflowing with spare keys, odd coins and hair clips.
Your house is perfectly organised and ordered. In fact, you know where every item is at any one time.
6. Cleaning is your cardio and meditation in one go
Who needs the gym and expensive mindfulness apps when you have a toilet brush and a bottle of bleach?
All that lunging, scrubbing and swiping is a great toning workout for your body, and dont get us started on the mental health benefits.
You seriously do your best thinking when your elbow-deep, cleaning the oven.
7. The fridge is your worst enemy
No matter how much you try to keep it clean and orderly, it always seems to get full of gunk after a few weeks.
Plus, the other people in your household cant seem to respect your system theres a special place for every item, people!
8. You quite often re-clean stuff that other people have already cleaned
Knowing that its not up to your standards will just annoy you otherwise.
9. You live for that ahh feeling after a deep clean
Theres nothing better than flopping down on the sofa after a full day of intense cleaning and taking in the beauty of your handiwork.
You even take before and after photos so you can marvel at what a great job you did.
Running the dishwasher and folding the laundry might not be everyones idea of a rocking Friday night, but who needs hedonism when you get such contentment from being a cleaning goddess.
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9 things youll only know if you actually love cleaning - BreakingNews.ie
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6 of the best ever Haute Couture fashion week moments – Evening Standard
Posted: at 10:13 am
The latest lifestyle, fashion and travel trends
It's fashion's frothiest frock-worthy event but this year Haute Couture fashion week is set to look a little different.
From July 6-8, Paris' bi-annual event will be rolling into your living rooms via digital steam, as it pivots to the constraints of the pandemic.
This may be the first of its kind for the fantastical event, but Haute Couture has quite the history. English couturier, Charles Frederick Worth established the first Haute Couture house in Paris in 1858, in a bid to champion luxury fashion for the upper-class woman, but it wasn't until 1908 that the term was officially used for the first time.
Today there are 15 brands, including Chanel, Dior and Givenchy, that are part of the French Chambre syndicale de la haute couture - the organisation that decides who's in and who's out of the couture world - all of whom craft fantastical couture collections twice a year.
So elite is the world of Haute Couture, that it's been estimated there are no more than 4,000 haute couture clients in the world.
The stand-out winners of couture fashion week SS20
While there may be no street style to lust over and no front row to dissect there will be dreamy dresses in droves this year, which is enough of an enticement for us.
Before the inaugural virtual couture week gets underway, we thought it apropos to take a trip down memory lane and pore over the most awe-inspiring moments from the bygone years.
Chanel Haute Couture AW 1983 (Sygma via Getty Images)
Chanel's couture autumn/winter 1983 show was revered Creative Director Karl Lagerfeld's debut collection for the fashion house, which he designed having been inspired by the ensembles of the 1920s and '30s.
His elegant oeuvre soon came to epitomise the fashion escapism that couture week is lauded for. The awe-inspiring sets he crafted were a work of art in themselves.
Yves Saint Laurent Couture SS 1993 (Gamma-Rapho )
1993 was a blooming brilliant one for supermodel-in-the-making Kate Moss. In February, she sashayed her way down the catwalk for Yves Saint Laurent wearing a bouquet of floral prints, and the following month she snagged her first Vogue cover (for the March issue of British Vogue.) Not bad going.
Versace Couture AW 1995 (Rex Features)
Gianni Versace's high-octane shows throughout the nineties were a sight to be beheld; all glitz and glam and more-is-more. His autumn/winter 1995 couture collection was particularly high-octane though, as he sent an army of models down the runway in bedazzled and shimmering ensembles, a move that perfectly epitomised the era's hedonism.
Thierry MuglerCouture AW 1997 (AP)
Thierry Mugler was inspired by Kafkas Metamorphosis for his Haute Couture show in 1997. Models were dressed as winged and hard-shelled characters, before a swarm of dramatic butterflies closed the show.
Chanel Couture AW 2015 (Getty Images )
Haute Couture has always been about fantasy and, ever the visionary, Karl Lagerfeld crafted a Chanel Couture Casino for the brand's autumn/winter 2015 spectacle in Paris. Who knew that Julianne Moore, Kristen Stewart and Lily-Rose Depp would ever be centre stage of a casino night that we'd be privy to?!
Fendi Couture AW 2016 (Getty Images )
For Fendi's autumn/winter couture 2016 show - and the heritage brand's 90th anniversary - a swarm of models strolled along Rome's iconic Trevi Fountain. In fact so dedicated is Fendi to the Italian city - its birthplace - that it made a $2.4 million investment in 2013 to the restoration of the fountain.
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6 of the best ever Haute Couture fashion week moments - Evening Standard
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