Up until now, Julien Dossenas Paco Rabanne collections have been refracting a myriad angles on his modern-romantic ideas about French girls in the 70s and 80s; clothes for parties and disco nights, frequently with glimpses of goddess-y off-world futurism about them. So it was a surprise change of tack for spring, to hear him speak of chaos, a little violence, and anger and radical sensuality.<\/p>\n
On a metal gridded runway his models strode out in heavy chain-lashed combat boots, babushka headscarves studded with metal grommets, and a wardrobe cut from latex and lace in searing colors, interspersed with lashings of black and bondage harnesses. On the soundtrack: a womans voice repeating Im going to make you sweat.<\/p>\n
We were definitely somewhere a lot heavier than the happy, hedonistic Paco Rabanne disco this season. All the skills of the house went into fabricating a collection which called on the traditional playbook of subversion: grunge slips, punk kilts, fetish rubber, and wipe-clean raincoats, intersected with the house signature silver chain mail.<\/p>\n
Dossena said it was his reaction to watching the war in Ukraineand even though it wasnt at the same time (as I was designing), what happened two weeks ago in the US; that now women may be forbidden abortion. Were the headscarves a direct reference to seeing distressed Ukrainian grandmothers on newsfeeds? It was more a combination of Queen Elizabeth and fetish, he claimed. But all of the toughness was completely intentional. Its about this feeling that theres going to be a fight, and its going to be a long one. So, its about expressing that passion and giving clothes for the moment to prepare to fight, because thats what its about: no apologies.<\/p>\n
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Originally posted here: Up until now, Julien Dossenas Paco Rabanne collections have been refracting a myriad angles on his modern-romantic ideas about French girls in the 70s and 80s; clothes for parties and disco nights, frequently with glimpses of goddess-y off-world futurism about them. Continue reading
\nPaco Rabanne Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection - Vogue<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"