18 year old Will Bosi has achieved an incredibly fast redpoint of Jerry Moffatt's rarely repeated Evolution 8c+ at Raven Tor (Miller's Dale), on his third attempt - a feat matched by Alex Megos in 2016 (UKC interview). <\/p>\n
Will is currently training in Sheffield ahead of the British Bouldering Championships with strong Slovenian company. He told UKC: <\/p>\n
'The training has been good fun, but we took a day to show the Slovenians Hubble and the rest of the Peak. Evolution has always been on my tick list as it's such a classic. My main objective has been Mutation (so the extension), but I had to do the beginning to start with.' <\/p>\n
Commenting on the speed of his ascent, Will surprised himself: <\/p>\n
'I was expecting to get all the moves down fairly quickly since I feel at home on the crimpy territory, but I wasn't expecting such a quick send! Just because Evolution is renowned for razor blade crimps and I had huge respect for it before attempting. The climb is absolutely amazing and it suited my style really well.' <\/p>\n
On his first attempt, Will worked the route quickly to scope out the moves and clips. He told UKC: <\/p>\n
'I came down thinking I had a chance on the next go and I was psyched at how good the climbing is! My second attempt was very brief - I just pulled up the start to put the rope into the second draw and came down. Third go, I was in full redpoint mode and went for every move 100%. I just managed to stick the third last move with two fingers but found the strength to get the third finger on and finish the route.' <\/p>\n
Will Bosi on his rapid repeat of Evolution 8c+ <\/p>\n
He added: <\/p>\n
'It ended up being a very successful quick visit to The Tor - I love the place!' <\/p>\n
Next up for Will is a shift in focus towards the competition season, with an occasional escape to the rock. <\/p>\n
Will is sponsored by: Red Chili and Wild Country <\/p>\n
Cripes the chaps just done 8c+ in 3 goes at a crag that takes most people 3 goes to find the hand holes, 3 goes to find the foot holes and 3 to try and connect them. ohh and rainshadow. He may have also be studying at... Ian Broome - 21:52 Wed <\/p>\n
No. Hopefully Will and some of the other young talents though are changing that. This is a phenomenally fast repeat. Nic Sellars also made fairly light work of the route I think, though not this quick. Steve has also... stp - 15:45 Wed <\/p>\n
Apart from Steve M, has British sport climbing really moved on from the Ben & Jerry show? Am I right in thinking that nearly all of Steve M's top routes (i.e. the 9's) have either not been repeated or not by a Brit?... Michael Hood - 14:52 Wed <\/p>\n
This news story has been read 3,113 times <\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
See the original post here: <\/p>\n
Evolution 8c+ by Will Bosi - UKC News (press release)<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" 18 year old Will Bosi has achieved an incredibly fast redpoint of Jerry Moffatt's rarely repeated Evolution 8c+ at Raven Tor (Miller's Dale), on his third attempt - a feat matched by Alex Megos in 2016 (UKC interview). Continue reading