A view of Stromboli from the northern end of Panarea. Photo courtesy of Cond Nast Traveler.<\/p>\n
It sounds like an impossible requestWanted: Beautiful Italian countryside, few touristsbut the dream of an unspoiled, undeveloped Italy actually still exists in the form of the UNESCO-protected Aeolian archipelago, a scatter of seven small islands and five islets afloat in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Unlike Capri and Amalfi, spots that today seem more curated for tourists than authentically Italian, the Aeoliansas close as a 45-minute hydrofoil ride from Milazzo or Palermo, depending on which island youre going tohave retained their traditions of wine cultivation, fishing, and farming. Add to this a handful of intimate hotels and guesthouses (no huge resorts here) and you have a place whose low-key chic is so seductive that even usually cynical Italians can only sigh dreamily when they speak of it. <\/p>\n
Because its difficult (and pricey) to find a room in July and August, the best time to take advantage of the Aeolian idyll, as real insiders know, is during the off-months of April through June as well as in September and October, after the crowds of swanky Milanese and Romans have headed home and the islands have returned to their usual quiet. Its also in these months that youre able to properly appreciate each of the islands unique topographies, from the fields of dazzling wildflowers that blanket Filicudi in the spring to the vines of Malvasia grapes that brighten Salinas countryside in the late summer. In the waters around Stromboli, meanwhile, the late-spring and early-autumn months offer spectacular fishing and deep-sea diving (the water, which hovers in the sixties throughout the year, will be plenty warm for swimming), and on Panarea, youll have the rocky coves virtually to yourself, with not a yacht in sight. <\/p>\n
Of all the islands, Panarea, Salina, and Filicudi are the best places to base yourself, as they offer both beautiful scenery and the archipelagos nicest hotels. But youll want to take day-trips to the othersthe easiest way to reach them is by chartered boat. <\/p>\n
Dattilo, as seen from one of the Hotel Rayas suites.Photo courtesy of Cond Nast Traveler. <\/p>\n
If youve only heard of one of the Aeolians, its most likely this one. The smallest and most stylish of the islands, it owes its exclusive reputation largely to Michelangelo Antonionis classic film LAvventura, as well as to the rustic (but chic) 36-room Hotel Raya, a sexy hideaway that opened in the 1960s. Today, the Raya, with its whitewashed terraces and stunning views of the still-active Stromboli volcano (ask for a Raya Alto room to secure a sea panorama), continues to host everyone from Uma Thurman to Roberto Cavalli, and during summer sunsets, the terraced bar transforms into one of the archipelagos only nightclubs. But off-season, its another world altogether: as gorgeous as ever, with windswept bluffs plunging down to rocky deserted beaches and a sound track of rustling olive-tree leavesbut without the attitude and preening. <\/p>\n
There isnt a lot to do on Panareathere are no cars and fewer than 300 residentsbut thats the point. If lounging on the terrace grows monotonous, hike to Punta Milazzese, a promontory once home to a Bronze Age settlement, or Cala Junco, a cobalt-blue cove surrounded by volcanic cliffs. Or you could rent a gozzo, a small wooden motorboat, and drive out to the hidden coves that punctuate the perimeter of the island, or to islets like Lisca Biancalocal lore has it that couples who swim here under the Arco degli Innamorati (Lovers Arch) will stay together forever. And be sure to head to San Pietro, the small village thats home to the port, for an aperitivo at Bridge, where the Japanese chefs make delicious sushi from the fishermens daily haul. <\/p>\n
The second-largest and lushest of the islands is dotted with caper bushes, olive trees, and neatly terraced vineyards. Much of the land in the interior has been turned into a nature reserve, and the volcanic trails, seemingly made for nimble goats, offer incredible sea views. A collection of restored former farmhouses and small gardens, the Hotel Signum, in the tiny hillside town of Malfa, put the island on the Italian-boho map when it opened 26 years ago, and since then, its gained a cult following of Sicilian insiders who come for co-owners Clara Rametta and Michele Carusos familial house-party atmosphere. Fresh island ingredients dominate the menu at the Signums restaurant: You might find octopus and potato ravioli or a crudo of sushi-grade local seafood. Book one of the rooms with a sea-facing terrace; theyre pricier but have a much greater sense of place than the garden rooms, which can be noisy. (Like many hotels in the Aeolians, the Signum offers three-nights-for-the-price-of-two deals during the off-season.) The recently renovated 23 rooms and four suites are decorated with wrought iron beds, tiled floors, and vintage photos of the island (especially beautiful is suite 18, which has a stand-alone tub right in the bedroom). <\/p>\n
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For a more luxurious option, theres the 18-room Capofaro. Originally a working vineyard, the property still grows Malvasia grapes, from which it makes both a dry, easy-drinking white and a sweet after-dinner wine. Housed in a cluster of whitewashed buildings surrounding the vineyard, Capofaro has an excellent seafood restaurant, a pool ringed by white-cushioned sun beds, and a stylish bar overlooking the seanot to mention a perfect view of Stromboli and Panarea. The rooms have little balconies and beds with earth-toned linens. <\/p>\n
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Discovering Italys Quiet, Beautiful Aeolian Islands<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" A view of Stromboli from the northern end of Panarea. Photo courtesy of Cond Nast Traveler. Continue reading