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Newswise WASHINGTON D.C. May 13, 2014 -- People standing on a beach often feel the water tugging the sand away from under their feet. This is the undertow, the current that pulls water back into the ocean after a wave breaks on the beach. <\/p>\n
Large storms produce strong undertows that can strip beaches of sand. By predicting how undertows interact with shorelines, researchers can build sand dunes and engineer other soft solutions to create more robust and sustainable beaches. <\/p>\n
\"Formulation of the Undertow Using Linear Wave Theory,\" a new paper in the journal Physics of Fluids, clears up some of the controversy in undertow modeling, so planners can assess erosion threats faster and more accurately. <\/p>\n
The paper's authors are coastal engineer Greg Guannel of the Natural Capital Project, which seeks smarter ways to integrate natural resources into development, and Tuba Ozkan-Haller, an associate professor of coastal engineering at Oregon State University. <\/p>\n
Researchers have studied undertow for more than 40 years, and have developed very accurate models of its behavior. The most sophisticated ones are based on Navier-Stokes equations, which describe fluid flow in exquisite detail. <\/p>\n
Unfortunately, such precision comes at a price. The mathematics are complex and it takes powerful supercomputers to run them quickly. <\/p>\n
\"You can't use them to solve day-to-day erosion problems,\" Guannel said. <\/p>\n
For real-world use, researchers need mathematical shortcuts, the engineering equivalent of rounding numbers so they are easier to work with. Researchers turn to linear wave theory, which simplifies things by using idealized forms. Beaches, for example, are wall. Waves are given perfect \"S\" shapes based on average properties. Instead of modeling everything, researchers make assumptions about some of the weaker forces acting on waves. <\/p>\n
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The Physics of Ocean Undertow<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Contact Information Available for logged-in reporters only Newswise WASHINGTON D.C. May 13, 2014 -- People standing on a beach often feel the water tugging the sand away from under their feet Continue reading